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Bike - Uphill in race

[Deleted User][Deleted User]
in Racing Forum 🏎

Do I understand this correctly? On the hill, you do your best to maintain your target Watts. Say 250W on the flats, 250W uphill, 250W downhill, always trying to maintain that steady output? Then, if the hill is really steep and you can't maintain W, go by RPE? 

Comments

  • zwubazwuba

    You should check out the Wiki for "Racing with Power"

    Basically you are 95% correct - instead for some minor exceptions:

    1) on short hills add 10% to your target watts

    2) on longer hills add 5% to your target Wattz

    3) going faster than 55km/h just get aero and coast

    Furthermore you should keep an eye on your HR - if it's way too high use your HR instead of power!

    If the hill is very steep get out of your sattle - this will bring your cadence down by about 30rpm and your power output will also drop.

    If that is still not enough you have chosen a wrong gear transmission ratio for that course IMHO.

  • Al TruscottAl Truscott

    Thanks for the question, Andrew; it made me go to the "new" wiki for the firs time, to see what's still there that might help with this question.

    Follow these links: Wiki > Table of Contents > Race Execution > IM Race execution > Under "Bike Pacing" click on Half and Full Ironman Bike Execution > Download the zip file > Look in the PDF in that zip pack, for "Coaches_Call..." > On page 10, titled Power racing zones, there is the info you need, with hill lengths, wattage recommendations, and HR adjustments. Nothing about RPE in there.

    Of note, the recommendation for hills taking less than 3 minutes to climb, you can ride @ "Goal Watts" PLUS 10%. For hills taking longer than 3', it's goal + 5%. There actually used to be a calculator for this in the wiki; I haven't looked to see if it's still there.

    Also, often noted is the fact that, for everyone, there comes a point depending on their FTP derived goal watts and the gradient of the hill, they may have to either (a) stand up and/or (b) go harder than goal + 10%, otherwise they;d be pedaling so slowly they'd risk falling over.

  • zwubazwuba

    As I live right beside the IM-Austria bike course I can tell you that I've seen a lot of athletes that used to pedal around 35-40rpm on the steepest hill (it's at Faaker-See and only about 1km / 4min in duration). The steepest section is about 12% incline.

    I'm pretty sure if you have a compact crank (34 teeth in the front) and a 27 teeth cog on the rear wheel you should be able to ride all hills very close or within your wattage limits image

    Of course when you use a TT crank with 54/42 you will get into serious troubles in these sections when you're not one of those really really freaking strong cyclists out there (and I know there are A LOT) 

  • Gordon CherwoniakGordon Cherwoniak

    Andrew,

    You have the answer already.  The key is to get the proper gearing for the race.  Weight also is a factor.  Take me for example compact 12-28 at Lake Placid and 220 lbs or so last year.  I should have gone with one of those new 32's or even a triple.  If you find yourself grinding up a hill in a race you just have to do want to can to mininmize the watts but at some point you will fall over due to lack of speed. So gearing and weight, use the off season to get the weight in check and then select the proper gearing.

    Other than Florida and AZ I believe ( where you can get Coach Rich's approval) you should be using a 12-25 or higher with a compact.

    Gordon

  • William JenksWilliam Jenks
    There are a few hills that you physically cannot climb at your target watts (even including the 10%). For those, get in your lowest gear and do the least damage you can. [If you are doing a hilly race especially, this is why compact cranks are recommended]. Otherwise, the common EN wisdom has already been well stated.
  • fleck03fleck03
    You might find that maintaining power going downhill might be the toughest part of maintaining consistent power.  It is really a challenge.  It's simply amazing in any race to watch folks just crank and crank and crank up hills -- but consistent power throughout really is crucial.  At IMLP, the first 8 miles or so of the bike is "the uphill out of town" -- there aren't any major climbs, but lots and lots of steady climbs.  But, by the time you get to the 7+ mile downhill into Keene, you're amazed at just how many people you saw go flying by you in the first climbs out of town breathing heavy, doing nothing on the downhill but trying to catch breath.  Bottom line is, you never see those folks again on the bike.  Consistency, power or HR (although HR has its own challenges), on the bike is the key. 
  • Coach RichCoach Rich

    All good advice from the Team.

    I would add that you want to bring enough gears to the race so that you don't "have to" stand to get up a hill. It's very difficult to stand and NOT throw out huge watts. As we get close to the race season you'll see lots of discussion about recommended gearing for specific races. We are very, very big on sorting out the small details before a race: gear, bottle placement, bike fit, wheel selection, etc.

  • Darren FreemanDarren Freeman

    After previously reading the wiki and some other threads on race gearing and then following up with this one.. I pretty came to the same conclusion that I'll be racing with a compact 11-28 setup also.  I pretty much want to have the one extra gear on the low end from my 12-25 on my road and P2 so it will be worth it.    Good info all!  Thanks

  • [Deleted User][Deleted User]

    Thanks guys. I vaguely remembered discussions about this before -- should have looked at the WIKI more carefully. That being said, I'm glad it prompted discussion.

    50/34s will be on the front by spring, to go with the 12-28s. Losing weight, well, I'm trying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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