Gearing for IM Wisconsin

damonwagner

Sorry if this is a double up from a previous forum but was having trouble finding one. I know it was posted a while ago. Just ordered a power training wheel from WB and unsure about a new cassette. I am currently running a compact crank (50/34) and a 12/25 cassette. Would this still work for Wisconsin or is there a better setup? 

Joe Matchette

@Damon - 12/25 will work. It all depends.... Are you going to have a chance to ride the course prior? If so, that will let you know if that setup gives you enough gears for the climbs, as well as letting you keep the gas on for the downhills.

If not, then you ought to at least consider other cassette options. William Jenks just posted about gearing and cadence gaps in another thread. I will look to see if I can find it....

Gordon Cherwoniak

Damon,

Once you get the power meter give it some time and settle in with some testing. I'm with Joe you will need to be a strong rider to go with the 12-25.  See the thread below for Coach Rich's numbers.  I can't remember his gearing.

http://members.endurancenation.us/F...fault.aspx

From that thread:

 

"Most notably, I rode a 5:10-11 in '04 on the course at 226w Pnorm but with a VI of 1.08 = 208w Pavg got me around that course in 5:10-11. No aero helmet, bottles on the back, I'll probably be about 4-5lb lighter on race day and my dumbass was probably riding with a Tufo strip in the tires back then...oy.

At what looks like where my FTP will be on race day, I can/could ride between 224 and 229w Pnorm, FTP of 300-305w and IF of .74-75 but with a MUCH lower VI of 1.03-04 yielding average watts of 218w vs the 208 of 2004."

Gordon

Dave Tallo

Recommended gearing is compact and 11-27 or 28.

bkcomiskey

I think the compact with 11-28 is perfect

Dino Sarti

I rock an 11/28 with a compact on every ride. It gives you tons of choices. But, I also golf with probably three putters in my bag. I like options....

Bruce Thompson

Damon - compact crank and 11/28.  That was my set up last year and I used every gear.  IMWI has many short steep rollers and you are shifting constantly to keep your watts at your target.  The 28 comes in very handy on Old Sauk Pass, Timber Lane and Midtown Rd hills so you don't spike your watts...  also, make sure you get a good tune up on your bike a couple weeks in advance of the race so you have time to let the cables stretch a bit.  If not, your cables might get stretched out on the first loop and then your shifting will be different on the 2nd loop.

Carl

Agree 11/28 is what the coaches recommended and it made a huge difference!! Saves your legs for the marathon!!

benvanmarcke

I will use a 50/34 and 12-27. I do not like the 11-28 cassette because it gives me a 11 that I won't use, and I give up a 16 which is my typical gear for riding around 22mph.

mason066

As a complete uneducated bike guy, how do I figure out what setup I'm currently running? As far as my crankset?

Joe Matchette

Easy way- count the teeth.

Easier way - ask your LBS

Seriously though, all the numbers mean is the number of teeth. E.g. 50 teeth ohn big ring, 34 teeth on small ring. The same is true for the cassette, but those are harder to count. You can take the cassette off and it is printed on it, buy they ar hard to see.

William Jenks

If I had my bike here in my office, I'd tell you the radius of the 50/34 rings , since that has to be pretty contant from brand to brand... and a quicker meausurement than counting... but nothing wrong with counting. If you haven't messed with your bike and it's one of the more common not-so-exotic ones, it's almost certainly eitehr 53/39 or 50/34, though there are other combinations out there.

Coach Rich

In '11 I was originally going to race with a 25-12 and compact. After riding the course during my camp I decided to go with a 26-11. Very nice to have the 34/26 for the climbs and if you're a stronger, faster rider (Ben), you'll want the 11t. There is a LOT of time to be had on the course by not coasting, ever, if you have the fitness and goals to sustain/justify that. 

I was ~4.1-2w/kg on race day and I was comfortable with the 26, which I rode to a 5:11. I didn't "need" it, but it was very nice to stay at a comfortable cadence to get up the hills. 27 or 28t is probably better for most. 

To set your perspective, there are primarily 4 notable hills on the course (others can correct me on length, grade, etc):

• Old Sauk, @ ~ mile 43 or so: ~.6-7 miles at 6%
• Timberlane: ~.2mi @ 8-9%
• Midtown: ~.5mi @ 6%
• A hill on Whalen at about mile 100, as you head back to town. About .5-7mi at 5-6%. 

Cary Blanco

Posted By Jason Mason on 05 Mar 2013 07:20 PM


As a complete uneducated bike guy, how do I figure out what setup I'm currently running? As far as my crankset?

Take a close look at anything that's printed/engraved on the cranks, you should probably see a 53 or a 50 on the large one, which should correspond to 53/39 (regular) and 50/34 (compact).

mason066

Thanks for the assistance everyone. I believe I'm sitting on a 12-25 casette, due to brother Noftsger looking at it on our last ride. So you guys think it's a worth while investment to switch it out to something more suited to WI than what I have?

John Withrow

Cassettes are cheap, so yes, even if you have a compact it is worth getting a cassette with more gears. But what crank do you have? All you have to do is count the teeth and you'll know. Not that it matters, either way, you'll still prolly want more gears on your cassette.

You can get an Ultegra 11-28 Cassette here for $64: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_502318_-1___202424

and if you have Amazon Prime, you can get the SRAM PG1070 12-27 with free shipping for $69: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-PG1070-10-Speed-Cassette-12-27T/dp/B0026YC3FI/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1362663655&sr=1-3&keywords=12-27+cassette

William Jenks

Agree. Forget even starting to worry about the cassette until you figure out the crank.

I'm not half the biker Rich is, but I rode the same gearing setup as he did. Remember that the difference between a 26 and 27 (or even 26 to 28) has a much smaller effect (a few percent) than does having the compact small ring (39 vs 34...about 15%).

Cary Blanco

The other think to look at is if your cranks have 110BCD or 130BCD on them.

110BCD = Compact
130BCD = Regular

rchose

Jason, 

WI was my first IM and I used 11-28 and 53/39 front.  I debated over the same questions.  Because of cost I changed out the rear cassette and it was easy to do.  I am sure Carl can help you.  I watched a video on youtube.  Only a couple times for a few seconds did I miss out on some downhill speed.  I will agree with getting your bike in a few weeks out to get tune up and new chain.  I personally saw a guys chain fall off on one of the hills.  If I do it again I will also add the compact crank but that money thing came into the picture.  I was jealous of the people who had an 80-90 cadence going up those hills. Good Luck!

Rob

rchose

Jason, 

WI was my first IM and I used 11-28 and 53/39 front.  I debated over the same questions.  Because of cost I changed out the rear cassette and it was easy to do.  I am sure Carl can help you.  I watched a video on youtube.  Only a couple times for a few seconds did I miss out on some downhill speed.  I will agree with getting your bike in a few weeks out to get tune up and new chain.  I personally saw a guys chain fall off on one of the hills.  If I do it again I will also add the compact crank but that money thing came into the picture.  I was jealous of the people who had an 80-90 cadence going up those hills. Good Luck!

Rob