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Tires and tubes?

My take-away from the Tire selection guidance is that I should change my tires and tubes. I don't get v excited about gear so I'm still using everything that came on my bike (R500, Vittoria Zaffiro and no idea what tubes are in there).

Any recommendations on specific tires / tubes? What I have is reliable so only interested in a change if that part of the equation stays the same.

(The plan was to upgrade the wheels last year but that never happened. Also interested in any recommendations on good value race wheels - no to deep rims, yes to clinchers. Something good for hillz. I'm about 125 lbs if that matters.)

Andrea

Comments

  • Continental GP 4000S and some latex tubes.

    Why no deep dish wheel? A set of Flo Cycling 60's will cost $900. That's a heck of a deal when compared to Zipp or Hed.
  • To clarify, are we speaking just race set-up (I believe we are)...

    I am using SRAM80's (not a wide rim like the FLO/Zipp FC) and not sure if I should move to GP4000s or stay with the past guidance of Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX II. I did snag a pair of Conti's from PBK but again not sure if they are AS good on a narrower rim.

    I am sure Bob, Trevor, or John W. has the data committed to memory image
  • Tires and tubes are easier, so I'll start there.  I still run the Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX tires for races and I use Latex tubes with removable cores with valve stems so I can put extenders long enough to run with my Zipp 808's.  Many people have switched over to the Continental GP4000s as race tires.  They have been shown in some studies to have better aerodynamics than the Vittoria's on the wider FLO or Firecrest wheels and about the same rolling resistance.  But I am quite happy with my Vittoria's and see no reason to switch.  I usually put a brand new set of tubes and tires on my race wheels a couple weeks before my Ironman and then leave them on through the following yr for all of the next season's races until I do another IM.  Note, if you are using Latex tubes, you still need butyl spares (the normal black tubes that came with your bike originally) as the Latex doesn't take CO2.  Also, my advice is to throw the Latex tubes away if you ever have to physically take them out of your tires, see here for why.   For training tubes/tires, I use whatever was on my training wheels or whatever other thing I can find cheap.  If I'm actually buying training tires new and money is know object, I would get the Continental Gatorskins because they are known to be slow and very durable.

    For Race wheels, please give us a bit more information.  Do you race with power?  If so is it in the crank or in your hub?  If not, have you read THIS thread yet?   The next most important question would be what is your budget.  It will be a much different discussion if you can spend $800 on wheels vs spending $2,800 on wheels...  Either will have good options, but they will be different.

  • Defer to John on the wheels. That discussion starts with objectives and budget.

    Tubes and tires: I switched to latex this year ... just to see ... and I have really been impressed with the improvement in ride. Doesn't make a ton of sense to me, and I didn't think I would, but I can feel the difference. I keep a butyl spare, but henceforth I plan to ride on latex.

    I like Michelin Pro 4 Service Course a lot; many people like the Conti GP 4000S, as you see here. Honestly, I think you'd probably be happy either way. I believe the Conti has a better reputation for durability, so if that's the priority, choose the Conti over the Michelin.

  • A disc cover for the back wheel is the cheapest alternative to turning it into a "race wheel". If your statement about no deep dish wheels is about handling, trust us that the rear "disk" will not affect you except in the absolute worst of conditions. This will work, regardless of your power solution.

    John is right about the budget being a major consideration. I got a used FC808 this year and find that it handles very well for how deep it is. Different, but not worse than the shallower Hed Jet 404 equivalent I was using before. I do not have a pile of wheels to compare like John does, but I'd guess that the FLO 60s would handle very easily...comparable to the Zipp 404FC, which will obviously be easier than any deeper dish wheel.
  • Thanks!

    And there's no reason I can't put these GP4000 tires on my stock wheels?


  • Will work great. Make sure you get tubes that match your tire size. Need guidance on that or are you all set?
  • Yes, I'll take some advice on the tube size. Thanks!!

    My wheels are shimano R500 and the tires on there now say 700x23c if that matters. I'm assuming I would get the same size tires as I have now. So what do I need to know for the tubes?? In fact, if you have a recommendation of a specific brand or whatever that I can just order, I'll take it.

    (People, do not judge - I'm gear challenged.)

    Andrea
  • No worries about being gear challenged - we all have one challenge or another.
    Mine, for example, is staying focused at work on Friday afternoon.

    Tires - if you buy the Conti GP4000S, then they come in a 700x23c and 700x25c; the 25 gives you a little more traction and a little more longevity; the 23 gives you a little less rolling resistance.
    http://tinyurl.com/mqy6lrp
    I'm going to assume you're going to get the 23c tire because that's what you have now and lower rolling resistance is always a priority for those of us who race, but... you can go either way as long as the tube you buy fits with the tire you buy.

    On that note, tubes... 700x23c is pretty standard; normal presta stem... so the main decision you need to make is latex vs. butyl, and this comes down to priorities.

    If you prioritize racing performance, latex is a little faster and a little lighter.
    If you prioritize maintainability, butyl is easier and less risky to install and easier to patch.

    I just switched to latex and my local bike shop did the installation for me.
    They have strong hands from doing this every day, and can pop on a new tire without using levers and without breaking a sweat.
    I'm probably going to order a bead jack (http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K) to be able to do this on my own.
    I carry a lightweight butyl tube.

    If you're going with latex, I'd suggest talking to your LBS and see if they'll toss them on for you.
    Butyl you can do yourself as long as you're careful.

    For latex, I use the Vittoria:
    http://tinyurl.com/lvz84we
    Make sure you get the 19/23c tube if you're riding on 23c.
    The valve stem is 55mm, which will work fine for you.

    For butyl, I like the Michelin AirComp:
    http://tinyurl.com/kkdrbar
    I would get the 52mm valve stem but the 40mm would work.
    Any lightweight butyl tube will work great.

    That said, brand is not critical here. Opt for a quality brand (Michelin, Vittoria, Continental) and you're good.

    Does this give you everything you need to move forward?
  • Yes. THANK YOU!

    The guys at my bike shop are amazing but it helps me to know my stuff - help them, help me :-) And I continue to buy bikes from them so everyone is happy.

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