building a bike need some help

cgres123

My Tri bike developed a split on the aluminum frame right where the seat post fits into the frame. The bike has an integrated seat post clamp that holds the seat post in place. I contacted my painter, who I have used his skills before as he custom paints motorcycles, he suggested why not get a new frame.

My bike frame is an Elite Magnus, this was a company in South Philly that has gone under so the warranty is done. The components on the bike are Ultegra with a brand new compact crank too.

I'm thinking that getting a frame is an interesting idea as I never built a bike before keeping my components and getting rid of my older aluminum frame switching up to carbon fiber.

Does anyone one have any ideas as to what is a decent frame that will fit with my components?

robin sarner

to start with, looks like you want to get a frame that has the typical threaded external bottom bracket capability.   or mess with adaptors for your Shimano crank. 

trisumai

Perhaps get fitted prior to deciding on the frame so you can figure out which bike fits you the best rather than you fitting the bike. theI think that the cost would be easily made up by comfort on a new bike. After that, it is very easy to switch your components over. You would probably just have to buy new cables.

harrast

It's a pretty easy maneuver to swap components if you get the right frame and it's compatible with your existing components. It's certainly a great way to learn a lot about bikes. I've always been a fairly skilled mechanic (not superman), so doing this sort of work was not a huge reach into the unknown. I often referred to Zinn's book on triathlon bikes as well as the internet. The toughest part is getting the fit just right with the right combination of frame and stem length.

I went through the bike build process a few years ago after going to my LBS and being fitted. They suggested a CD0.1 M/L size and offered to build the bike. Since I couldn't afford their pricing, I went home and purchased the frame used on ebay and built the bike in my basement. Instead of using the components from my old bike, I purchased new/used parts on line including the crank, derailleurs, wheels, seat, bottom bracket, chain, cassette, brake levers, shifters and aerobars. Everything went fine until I put on the aerobars and the stem was the wrong length. I took the bike to my LBS where they fitted it with new aerobars and the correct stem. Had I been more patient, I could have avoided this step, but live and learn.

A couple things to consider:

1. I didn't have to cut the fork tube, but with a new frame you may have to do this. I've never done this before, so I don't know how difficult it is.
2. You will need to know your frame size before you can start looking for a frame. Most fitters can tell you what will work for you--maybe even without a fitting.
3. If you get the same type of bottom bracket on your new bike then you have the option of using the most expensive parts of your old bike on the new one (I like the threaded bottom bracket because it is a well-known technology).
4. I built a CD0.1 from an early production model ('09) that had a threaded bottom bracket. Later that year models converted to a BB30 bottom bracket.

cgres123

Interesting idea to go out find what fits and then buy the bike on Ebay vs buy the bike then make it fit, I'm sure there will be some fitting issues anyway.

3. If you get the same type of bottom bracket on your new bike then you have the option of using the most expensive parts of your old bike on the new one (I like the threaded bottom bracket because it is a well-known technology).

I didn't even think about that good point.

trisumai

http://ttbikefit.com/
This is one of the sponsors for EN. I did mine via a Retul bike fitter in Columbus, Oh but I think there are some cool ones which are more dynamic and can be adjusted electronically while you are being fit. Afterwards, I gave him a list of bikes that I was interested in and he looked up the stack and reach numbers to see which would be ideal. Remember that with S/R numbers it should be to the back of the arm pad and not just the frame (as other components ie stem, type of aerobars) come into play. Also make sure you get a hard copy of your fit coordinates. If you want, I can send you mine so you know what the minimum you should be getting from a fitter. Good luck.

cgres123

Kar-ming, send it over I'd like to see it, I can always learn something.

bmr94539

David, I did essentially the same thing. After many years of riding and commuting, my aluminum frame developed some cracks near the bottom bracket a couple of years ago. I did lots of reading and bought a carbon frame on ebay from a no-name company. I switched over all of my components, but had to buy a different rear brake and headset. Getting the right headset took me a couple of tries. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have been doing my own mechanic work for many years, so this wasn't much of a stretch for me.

Yes, I had to cut the carbon steerer to the right length. That was a bit of a scary moment, but not nearly as difficult as I had feared it might be. Measured at least 5 times and marked the steerer and went after it with a hacksaw. You can also just take it to your LBS and they can do it for you. I have bought all the appropriate tools over the years. If you buy good ones they last a long time.

I'd be happy to give you any support I can if you have questions. Just drop me an email.

cgres123

@ Bryan..Thx