aerojacket installation - derailleur scraping

Bob Irwin

Having a little trouble getting my wheel cover installed.  The rear derailleur is scaping on part of the cover.  Wheelbuilder said to send them a pictue which I will, but they didn't have any suggestions.  Thought maybe someone on the team might have encountered this.  I've had the disc cover for 3 years and have used it 2-3 times per year without a problem.  Last year I got a 27/12 cassette to replace my 25/11.  Both are SRAM cassettes. I don't see why that would be a probem - but that's the only thing I've changed.  Any ideas??

Steve West

Is there a spoke magnet pushing it out?

Heat warp on the drive side cover?

A pic would be helpful.....

robin sarner

assuming derailleur adjustment ok, does your set up normally require the spacer that goes on the hub before putting on the cassette?     if so, is the spacer on?

Dino Sarti

I had rubbing on my P5 when in the big cog. It was not the dérailleur. It was the chain. Combine that with headaches around accessing the stem, and I decided to ditch it...

Bob Irwin

I took it off, and reinstalled taping it so it didn't slide and got it to work. However, when I spin the wheel, I can see that the drive side is not completely uniform. It must have warped a little. Is there any way to straighten it out?

William Jenks

I have found (with 3 different bikes and just as many different wheels...so maybe 6-7 combinations) that the installation really is sensitive to the position of the stem cutout. I'm not sure why that is, but if you don't tape it or do something similar, after it rotates a bit, it really can bulge in a funny place.

I also found that this can be "tuned" on a 404 wheel, whereas there doesn't seem to be much adjusting it on a standard wheel. If, instead of just mindlessly shoving the screws together all the way, you screw them together about half way, and then tighten some or loosen some a little, you can get the shape to fit just that much better. I have a lot less success doing this with an Open Pro wheel than either a Hed Belgium or the 404. However, the OP gave me the least problem in the first place. I'm not sure why exactly this is, but this does "fix" it for me.

Cary Blanco

*** To answer your question, you're doing the right thing. Keep installing it, try taping down the cover to the spokes and get that side smooth. You will eventually get it right.



RANT:



I had that problem before San Juan and I decided not to use the wheel cover any longer. It's not designed for my Specialized Transition, but I always made it work. I had a great system down electrical taping the cover to the spokes.



The time the wheel cover was saving me wasn't worth the stress it was causing me. "Do I have a crack pipe", "Will someone be around to help me hold the pump head while I inflate", "Am I being careful enough pulling the pump head off so as not to crack the cover."

The cover does save time and looks great, but I have arguably the fastest set of wheels you can use without needing a valve stem (FC404s which will run with 80mm stems).

END RANT

Scott Alexander

I have a problem with mine, where if I bolt my cassette down too tightly over the aeroojacket, the whole wheel "seizes" and doesn't spin freely. It doesn't happen all the time, and thankfully didn't happen until after my last race.

Could that be because the center hole isn't big enough to fall AROUND the hub and spacer, ya think?

John Withrow

Regarding the Original Post, mine also used to barely rub on the RD, so this time when I installed my cassette, I added an extra one of those tiny little Shimano washers (so I used 2 of them) . I was able to sink the nut down very tight. After a small tweak of my RD, it seems fine.

William Jenks

Regarding John's solution...I messed with this too, but had RD shifting issues that couldn't get adjusted out...I think it all depends on your exact setup whether that will work

John Withrow

Mine is Di2, so it was super easy to get adjusted...

Bob Irwin

I'm not sure what John meant by the Shimano washers? Is that something that fits between the back of the casette and the hub (making sure that the cover is pushed in as far as possible). If so, I 've never used any washers between the casette and the hub. Either with my current SRAM Red RD or the prior DA setup. That sounds like it might help.

Cary Blanco

Bob,

He's talking about the spacer that changes it from 9 speed to 10 speed cassette spacing.

This article on slowtwitch explains the spacer thing: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cass..._3257.html

John Withrow

Yup. That's the one in Cary's link (4th picture down). You do not need that thin washer/spacer on a SRAM cassette. But you do need it with a Shimano Cassette. When I installed my Ultegra 11-28 Shimano cassette, I actually used 2 of the thin washers instead of just the required one. I was a bit afraid that the threads on the end cap wouldn't bite properly, but I had no problem and got several turns of it and then cranked it on pretty tight. Doing this gave me the extra millimeter or 2 between my 28 tooth cog and the disc cover. This was all I needed for it not to rub in any gear combination. Mine previously only rubbed when I was in the big ring in the front and the 28 in the rear (which you arguably shouldn't be in anyways). I did a 2.5 hr ride on it this weekend with my disc cover and had zero issues. Let's hope the same will be true about 112 miles at Placid on race day...

Bob Irwin

Thanks - I'll go read the article. I have a SRAM cassette and PT hub, so according to the chart I don't need the spacer. But maybe if I put one on, it would solve my problem - or maybe I can't use one - I guess I'll find out when I read the whole thing.

Cary Blanco

Bob - I think you got the gist. Good Luck