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New bike purchase/ parts questions

Gordon CherwoniakGordon Cherwoniak
in General Training Discussions

So I am looking for a new bike and have a few questions.  For reference I ride a 98 cannondale caad4, 8 speed with sti shifters so anything built in the last 5-8 years would be considered an upgrade. 

I am looking new and am getting a consult from Todd at ttbikefit but have some question for the group on bike components/parts.  I can get a bike fit at both shops that I am looking one uses FIST and the other uses Juteau-Cantin (anyone heard of this and can give me some background?).

I have used both shops in the past, very little so I don't have a high degree of confidence that they can do a good job with bike fit thus my pre buy consult with Todd.  They have been great shops for fixes, parts and a mountain bike purchase I just don't have the information on bike fit.

1) Is there a compact crank that you prefer? Why?   I will be swapping out the 53/39 for a compact 50/34.  Any other changes; derailer that I need to consider?

2) Aerobars - What do you prefer? Why? Which provide the most adjustability and is this important if you are fit well?  I may have a post buy fit with Todd soadjustability could be important.  Given the pre-buy consult I should be on the correct size frame so the standard aerobars will probably be fine.

3) Pedals - I currently ride look keo, an old used pair (5 years old).  Sorry could not even tell you what kind.  Is there clete differences if I upgrade to new ones?  I really don't want to have differences as I plan on keeping my old bike for a comuter bike. 

4) My two local bike shops have argon18, specialized, cervelo and kuota bikes.  I am in the K-factor, P2 price range at the top end for reference.  I went on the cervelo website and noted that the p2 2010 specs lists 650c wheels.  I currently ride 650's on the cannondale so this does not bother me but will this have an effect on available tire selection?  I have read the rolling resistance threads and you can save yourself a lot of watts going with better tires. 

I have only purchased LBS tires and conti gp4000's so have very limited knowledge but it seems that selection with 650's is always limited.  Will the 650's be a huge problem for getting tires with low rolling resistance?  I don't mind ordering in for a race and I can train on anything so this is just a random thought.

Here's the like to the p2 specs:  http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/...ces-specs/

5)  Are there any other changes/upgrades that you would be considereing on a k-factor/p2 level bike purchase.   Note that the price tag is pretty much at my price limit but throw your comments out there.  It's worth the stretch now if there is good justification as I probably won't get a new bike for a long time. 

I've read the threads on the 3.0 forum about buying the frame and building it up.  I'm not going to get in to this now but at some point in the future I would consider it.  I'm a very basic wrench and need to invest some time to upgrade my skill before I take on a build.

Thanks in advance for the comments.

Gordon

Comments

  • LynneJLynneJ
    Buy based on fit. Get the numbers of your needed geometry from Todd or ask him which of your available options will fit your body type best. All bikes in this price range are equally good with lots or trickle down tech from what was top of the line a few years ago. As far as part go since you are planning on swapping in a compact crank the others that matter are the rear derailleur and the brakes. RD for function and the brakes because that's a frequent place to skimp on a bike build. The other skimp place at the price point is the wheel set. It'll likely be rock solid and great for training, may even look aero but won't be particularly light. No biggie but good to know.

    BTW my little sister rides and really likes her K Factor. Fitwerx in VT put a Shimano Ultegra compact on it swapping it for the stock and she has a Ritchey wheelset on it. It came stock with the Ultegra brakes and she has a Profile Designs Carbon Strike on it. My Serotta has a SRAM Force carbon compact crank and our road bikes both have Ultegra level compact cranks on them.
    Lynne
  • NortonNorton
    Gordon,

    The Cervelo comes w/650 wheels ONLY in the very smallest of frame sizes. Unlikely to apply to you.
  • Nemo BrauchNemo Brauch
    Great advice thus far. I doubt you are going to be faced with the 650c dilemma, but if you have a choice between two equally good fitting bikes and one comes with 650c wheels, I'd recommend choosing the other. As a l'il Peep 650c is pretty much my sole option and the only real downside I've seen is that you have limited choices on tires and you gotta be super self-dependent when riding (carry extra spares) cause no one else is carrying a 650 tube!

    My only other advice is to check with the LBS where you are purchasing the bike and find out what their deal is with swapping out components when you buy the bike. Most will let you "trade in" whatever came on the bike as stock, so you should get a credit there to go towards the upgraded component and not have to pay full price for it.
  • Gordon CherwoniakGordon Cherwoniak

    Thanks for the comments. 

    I will be heading out to the LBS tomorrow or perhaps Thursday to try out a Specialized Transition Comp.  The Argon 18 and P2 came in a close 2nd.  I will try out the #1 recommendation if they have a size large in otherwise will look at the other 2.  Beyond that I don't thing I would go with the next option as the Kuota is not a good fit. 

    Gordon

  • Beth_SBeth_S

    On pedals -- Todd carries Keywins. I love mine! I never thought I would have pedal love, but I can't say enough good things about them.

  • Cary BlancoCary Blanco
    If you think sizing is going to be an issue, then I'd recommend going with a brand that sponsors a pro UCI team (like specialized & cervelo). The reason being is that they'll have the most sizes available do to the fact that they don't want the pro riders to have to compromise on fit.

    My LBS is finishing up a 2009 transition comp for me (putting an ultegra compact crank & front derailer and a different set of aerobars as the ones that came with it for to narrow for me).

    Good luck Gordon, let us know how everything turns out.
  • David FlintDavid Flint
    Considered a custom frame Gordon? May not be as expensive as you may think, Todd may be able to advise. Problem with production bikes is that they are all scaled on the 'averaged' sized rider - lets say a 56cm or 'medium; frame - they'll just add or minus 1cm across the range.
    You'd be surprised how many pro's are on custom bikes rather than team bikes - just painted up the same. We're not talking odd-sized pro's either! Interesting phone call into the tour of cali commentary team last year (eurosport) when the host claimed 'that pro's dont ride custom these day' - the call was from the guy that owns Dolan in the UK, he said that at least 5 of the top 10 were on his frames!

    Saying all that, you may be lucky and have loads of brands that'll fit - sure all frames can be made to fit (longer or shorter stems etc) but they'll handle like crap and you may not get comfy ever (probs then blame your 'lack of flexibility!')
    I had the grand choice of 2-3 frames that would fit me OK due to longer than avg legs (inseam) and avg everything else - ended up with a 'dale Slice as its 'high & short' rather than say a cervelo P3 being low & long.
    Get the frame that fits properly, even if its not fancy carbon etc, etc.
  • manconamancona
    You have received a bunch of great answers so far. Here are a few more thoughts.

    1) You will probably notice very very little difference in cranks. If you like to have things match, get the one that matches the groupset, i.e. Ultegra or DA, Force or Red. If you don't care, just get an inexpesive one (i.e. FSA, Shimano non-series, SRAM non-series). I can't recall your power meter situation, but if you are considering a crank based PM at some point, you could get a SRAM S900 or S975 compact crank now and this makes it about $300 cheaper later to get a Quarq Cinqo. No other changes should be required.

    2) Aerobars are pretty personal...my leason learned is don't buy anything integrated as it limits adjustability no matter what the manufactor claims. Go try a a few out and like you said stick with somthing adjustable. I've used Vision, Profile, and HED so far. The HED are my favorite so far as they are very clean, light, and adjustable, but they are also the most expensive. That said I have a Zipp Vuka Bull/Clip setup coming soon to try out this year. I have a feeling my perfect set of bars is going to be a mix of HED and Zipp parts.

    3) Can't help you with the look pedal compatability, but if they work for you stick with them and get a set of KEOs for the new bike.

    4) As others said, get what fits the best. If they don't have it in stock have them order it, it's worth the wait. I was very please with my Argon e-112 and it is very similiarly sized to a P2C. It is not as good of a bang for your buck as the P2C though. Kuota is typically a very different geometry than the P2C/argon, if it works for you go for it. I don't know much about the specialized.

    5) If the bike comes with a 11-23 or similar cassette have them swap it for a something like a 11-25, 12-25 or 12-17. Also, make sure they will help you find a seat you like. As far as groups go, i bet you wont even notice a difference between 105/ultegra/dura-ace or rival/force/red.

    Many times a LBS will discount other accessories when you buy the bike, therefore it may be worth picking up an aero bottle, botle cage, and bag at the same time as well.
  • DocHoffartDocHoffart
    Gordon,

    You've been given great advice.

    One issue I've had with aerobars is the stability of the armrests. Friction fit versions like most profile designs slip and I end up with a low armrest when hitting a bump. I ride @ 80 degrees and am heavy, therefore I put a lot of weight on the armrests. I currently use Hed aerobars and they use a spacer system to change the height of the armrests. I think this design is bulletproof and very stable on lousy roads. Lieto used a prototype bontrager bar with lots of spacers under the armrests and believe that Lance and they boys have the same set up. It allows you to really leverage the bars for rollers and stay in the aeroposition without ending up with slipped and therefore lower elbow positions afterwards.

    Vince
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