IM bike
I'm pretty new to training with power (trainer road) and have never raced with power. My wife and I train together, and then she comes very close to beating me in the races, so getting a power meter is currently not in the budget because it would only be fair to both get one. We have raced several 70.3 races and I usually hit the wall around mile 5-6 on the run. I'm 99.9% convinced it is because I go way too hard on the bike. But you know how it is, it's early in the race and you're feeling good so why not use that good energy. So I usually tell myself I'll never do it again while I am walking during the run. But back to pace/power on the bike. Once the OS is over, the weather gets nicer again and biking outside is enjoyable again, whats the best way to go about cycling outside without a power meter. Does it make sense to use the mph TR gives when I am in zone, 2,3, or 4? Is heart rate the best way to go? (I have never found training with heart rate to be that useful because it varies a lot). Plus heart rate on a trainer and heart rate outside is nowhere near the same value. My biggest fear is that on the hills in IM CDA I will burn too many matches.
Any input is appreciated. Thanks, Jan.
Comments
BUT, assuming that is not in the cards I'll take a stab at your actual post. 'Speed' on the trainer at a given power is basically irrelevant when you go outside. This is even more irrelevant when you throw in the concept of 'virtual power' from TR. TR is great but the absolute power number it spits out is also not important. What matters is that it is repeatable for you and you can use it to really nail your training zones. What you should learn to do is really start to internalize what the RPE feels like at your different prescribed power levels. You'll need to learn what FTP "feels like". And what 85% feels like. And 70% for instance. You can also watch what your HR does if you do longer intervals at those intensity levels and where it "stabilizes". Without power, you can watch both your HR and dial in on that RPE. You can also use the other techniques that RnP describe in their power webinar and they talk about in their 4keys talks to keep the pressure on your feet 'constant' as you approach and go over hills. I can tell you at IMCDA if you are passing ANYBODY while you are going uphill, you are likely going to hard. I've been in the top 10% of the bike leg in my last 3 IM's with a reasonably high FTP but racing a steady IM bike as a slave to my power numbers, I learned that I almost NEVER pass anyone going up any hill of any reasonable size. So that is another thing to think about during your race. I know you say your HR isn't reliable, but if it is ever "spiking" in an IM or even a HIM, you're likely going too hard, but there is a lag, so if your HR spikes near the top of a hill, you likely have already been going too hard on the whole hill (for the previous 1-2 mins before you realized it).
I'd suggest for the next several months, just work hard. Pay close attention to your HR and how you 'feel' when you're sitting on certain power numbers on your trainer and correlate those later to what you are doing outside. You will eventually dial all of this in when you are in the meat of your IM training and doing your race rehearsals, etc. oh yeah, and put those Starbucks dollars in a jar every week and you'll have enough for a cheap PM by the time it warms up in Pennsylvania in 4-5 months...
Jan - Don't know what your budget is, but wheelbuilder.com (head honcho R. Sawiris is close to EN coach Rich) is having a 30% off sale thru Dec 9th. It's possible, for about $900, to get a complete DT Swiss wheel with PowerTap hub, Joule head unit (computer) and wheelcover for conversion to race day disc wheel for about $900 - or $70 less, if you already have a Garmin 500 or 510, or other head unity which is ANT+ and can display power #s. Got more $? you can get a more expensive wheel.
I'd guess that the majority of ENers with power (or at least a plurality) have a PowerTap.
@Robert thanks for the offer. I am not gonna buy anything soon, especially with the holidays coming up, so if you are actively looking to sell yours, don't hold back for me. If not, then I may contact you in the spring time and see if you still have it and still looking to sell.
One question I do have about powertap hubs. I noticed they sell wheels with the hub built in and hubs alone. I have race wheels, would it make sense to get the hub and have it installed on my wheels (FLO 90 rear) or is that not how it works?