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52/36 chainrings

I currently run a 50/34 compact and am thinking of going to 52/36. Anyone running 52/36? Looking for any and all opinions.
Thanks
Dave

Comments

  • no good reason to change far as I know unless you are a 4:45 iron biker.
  • Yikes I could talk to you about this for hours. Couple questions for you. You a high cadence guy or a masher? How long you been riding  the compact? What do you think you will get out of the change that has you considering it.

    You may change out to a 52/36 and end up going with a different cassette set up which will put you right back where you started. The change could impact you all the way down to your fit.

  • I'm considering it for IMCDA.  What I'd caution is it's highly dependent on how you ride and the course you're looking to optimize.  I'd never consider this for IMC, for example because the ascents and descents are much more dramatic.  Meaning on the ascents I don't want to loose a bit and on the descents gravity takes over pretty quickly and it becomes a moot point.  

    Anyway, I previewed IMCDA with a target wattage of about 15w lower than race day.  After analyzing all the data felt I could have pushed a little harder on the descents.  I was able to ascend at about 85 RPM which would come up about 5 RPM when I'm at my goal watts but then back down (guessing) that much when I change the gearing.  In short, I'm expecting a net zero change in ascending RPM. 

    I’m on a 172.5mm compact 50/34 with 11/28 cassette.  I'm thinking about changing the front chain rings only resulting in a 172.5mm compact 52/36 with 11/28 cassette.  As luck would have it I can borrow these from a friend at no risk to me financially so I'll be able to try it out either way.  I'm also seeing if I can get an 11/30 on the back to offset the slight climbing loss. I'm not thrilled about that because I'd probably need a new derailleur, etc. so kind of a less appealing option. 

    Three of the things I'm thinking about are gear gap, ascending gearing and descending gearing. Just something to keep our brains busy on the trainer... YRMV!

    Here are the ratios.  If you'd like the entire spreadsheet with most combos let me know and I'll PM it to ya.  

      

     

  • Are you spinning out in 50/11 for extended periods in training or racing?
    Can you ride the steepest climbs in your area/races in the 34/23?

    If yes, then consider the 52/36, if no, don't.

    I ride a 52/36 for about 80% of my rides for the last 4 years and love it. But I live where it is very flat and have a high w/kg.

  • Posted By Dave Barr on 12 Dec 2013 04:39 PM


    I currently run a 50/34 compact and am thinking of going to 52/36. Anyone running 52/36? Looking for any and all opinions.

    Thanks

    Dave

    What are you experiencing that has you considering making this change? I've been riding a compact since about 2006. For the riding I have around here (very varied -- very long climbs, fast descents, long flats, aggressive pace changes with roadies, etc) a 26-11 cassette does everything. Though I haven't had a reason to, if I wanted to change cassettes to better match terrain for races, I know I could solve pretty much anything with 25-11 or 23-11. Similar to Matt, in race shape I'm north of 4.0w/kg. 

    If you were riding dead, dead flat rides all the time I could see just sticking with the 53/39 or 52/36 that may have come with your bike. But I personally can't think of reason to spend money to go up to those cranks from a compact. 

  • I agree with Rich. I see no reason to go from a 50/34 to a 52/36.

    I eventually plan to switch from a 53/39 to a 52/36. I ride dead, dead flats all the time but I usually do a race a year at a hilly venue and would love having the 36T little ring. There were a couple of climbs at IMCan that I wished I had something easier than a 39 & 28... like a 36 & 28.
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