Home General Training Discussions

Quarq models...need help

I think I'm going to do the quarq upgrade.

I assume the RED22 is only compatible with other RED22 components (i.e. FD, RD, SRAM 11-gear cassette, etc.)

What's the difference between the Elsa and the normal RED, other than the chainrings? I always thought RED was the highest in the SRAM lineup but the ELSA looks like it's specced lighter. I assume both of these are compatible with whatever FD/RD etc just like my S975??

Thanks

 

Comments

  • @Matt, I don't know the direct answer to your question, but I bought a Quarq Riken through Coach Rich and got what I believe was a good price.  He can probably answer your question, and maybe sell you one too. Bob

  • @Matt Yes the Redd22 is only for the new Red group for your other question see below.

    Here is a quick answer from the man himself from slowtwitch forums:


    Is there a technology difference or an advantage of the new ELSA 10R? I am in the process of ordering one now and prefer the look of the SRAM Red but performance trumps aesthetics...most of the time. Is the SRAM Red basically obselete/discontinued and I should get the ELSA or are they essentially equivalent besides the weight? Thanks!



    The technology is the same between the SRAM RED and ELSA powermeters. The SRAM Red version is certainly continuing. It's the SRAM S975 Quarq model with the larger electronics pod that has been discontinued.



    The main difference is the SRAM Red Quarq is sold with Yaw compatible chainrings which are what you'd want to use with the newest SRAM Red drivetrain that has the Yaw deraileur. It has one of the chainring bolts hidden behind the crank arm. The crank arms are branded "SRAM".



    The ELSA powermeter has the same features as the RED Quarq (power balance, 1.5% accuracy, etc), but it comes with the standard Red Black 10 speed chainrings without a hidden bolt. This allows folks in the field to more easily change their chainrings. The crank arms are branded "Quarq".



    In other words, I'd say base your decision on which drive train you are planning to use the powermeter with.



    Mieke

    Quarq Technology  
  • That is part of the reason I decided NOT to do the upgrade. I couldnt really understand the website , distinguish any differences, that explanation didnt clear it up any for me . I asked about cranks and rings but you dont have any choices there except size you have to use their cranks and rings(or buy your own separately)... Apparently they are compatible with Shimano but sounds like they work better with SRAM.... I think my rotor rings and cranks are probably better and like you said it aint broke.
  • Matt, the only reason to go for the Red22 or Red is if you are going to run a Yaw FD. With those you should get "slightly" better front shifting because the rings are tuned to be used with the new yaw front deraillieurs. The big downside to Red22 or Red is that you have to use hidden bolt chainrings. I believe the 22 has slightly different spacing between the chainrings so that there is no chain rub in all 22 gears.

    The Elsa and Riken will work with anything including Sram 22, Sram 10s, Shimano 10,11, DI, and Campy 10 and 11 speed. As others pointed out Elsa gives you r/l power balance, a slightly lower weight due to hollow crank arms, and an option to get 165mm crank arms from quarq.

    The Riken only goes down to 170mm from quarq and you lose the r/l power balance. This is by far the best bang for your buck.

    Both are a decent upgrade from the Cinqo Saturn as they are more stable and you can swap chain rings without calibrating. Plus they use a more common battery.

    They are all compatible with any sram, campy or shimano FDs, but the Sram 22 is "optimized" for the new yaw FD.

    Long story short, if you want to go full Red22 setup, buy the Red22 Quarq. If you want to go 165mm go for the Elsa. Otherwise, save the ~500 and get a Riken.
  • Thanks everyone for the input and detail. Based ont he upgrade program terms, the difference between the Elsa and Riken is $200 not $500. I ride 170mm cranks so the shorter crank arm options aren't a big deal for me. I'm sure that L/R power isn't worth $200 but that doesn't mean I won't buy it...
  • I pulled the trigger today. Why not roll the power meter dice? I went with Elsa in compact. The key driver for me was I wanted 165mm crank arms. My current ride has 172.5, but I like the 165mm's that I use on my TT bike. We will see what happens next week....
Sign In or Register to comment.