Computrainer Cadence Fix?
Can anyone point me to a fix for the computrainer cadence not working issue? Here's the history: Bought my computrainer used a few years ago. Cadence worked intermittently then quit altogether. I never really worried about it until my son started to ride and I wanted to give him some stat's on his cadence and why he should pedal a little faster. I am also anal about having working equipment. So I cleaned all the electrical contacts with an aerosol, but still no cadence. I'm doing my testing by manually passing a magnet over the sensor while I watch for recognition on the head unit. I have tried the computrainer magnet as well as other magnets, but no cadence. I have also tested the sensor on the bike in multiple positions varying the distance from the magnet and the fore and aft position of the sensor. Nothing. Not even a spark. Any ideas? BTW, I have a second sensor (also used) and have gone through the same drill with no better results. Is it possible that both sensors are bad? Should I try a new sensor. Is this a design issue that cannot be fixed with new parts? Looking for the wisdom of my elders.
Comments
Since I also have a powertap/ Joule combo, I use that for HR and cadence. Saves a couple of wires.
might try new sensor but if two of yours not working...
work around of cheap wired bike computer?
Yeah I had same issue, needed to send head unit back to get ports fixed. Didn't last long before stopped working again. Had given up on HR until I started using TR, now I can link the Garmin cadence sensor in that which works all the time.
Yeah I had same issue, needed to send head unit back to get ports fixed. Didn't last long before stopped working again. Had given up on cadence until I started using TR, now I can link the Garmin cadence sensor in that which works all the time.
I'm coming back to the well of knowledge. I got around to testing the cadence sensors for my Computrainer. From what I read on the Computrainer forum, the sensor circuit is open (high resistance) until a magnet is applied, and then it is closed (low or no resistance). So I tested the sensor circuit (tip to sleeve on the plug) with (and without) the magnet and it was always open. I have two old sensors around and they both tested bad (always open)--according to this test. So, before I order another sensor from racermate and waste $40 of my children's inheritance, any other thoughts? Any electrical engineers who care to shine some light on this deep topic? Any hacks (like me) with some SWAG? I'm open to all ideas on this.