And the key question is what do you have up front? if you have 53/39 up front, you should use 11-27 unless it's flat as a pancake. You'll appreciate the lower gear.
If you have 50/34, it's more of a judgment call based on your strength as a cyclist and the terrain. You'll have more gear/cadence gaps with the 11-27 (which is annoying) but obviously the 11-27 gives you both a faster and an easier gear. If your W/ks (FTP) are in the 2.5-3.3 type range, unless it's very flat, I'd still go with the 11-27. if you're one of those 4+ studs, you can afford 12-25 unless it's got some really nasty hills.
Rich is a 4+ W/kg guy and he rides 50/34 in the front for Madison. (used to use 12-25 in the back...not sure what he's using now) Compacts are NOT "just for women".
I have a 53/39 in the front. My understanding is that the course is very flat. The bike is my worst discipline, I hope to average between 18-18.5 mph. I appreciate the advice.
im running the 11-28 with the compact 50/34 as my standard bike fit its got the all around gears for any course and i do like to have that little gear for hills in case i encounter them. My bike is my most challenging discipline as well which screws my run all to hell if i dont pace good and even if i do pace well it still sucks lol
ps. just dropped the bike at lLBS to install my new Quarg courtesy of Rich and wheel builder along with the 510 as my eyes arent what they use to be..looking forward to maryland in a few weeks
IM Lake Tahoe 70.3....I watched Coach Rich's bike ride preview video...I have two questions:
it is clear 12-32 is the preferred set up on the rear but he didn't mention what gearing is he assuming for the front crank....I assume he is using 50-34 compact set up ?
Is it possible to use this set up 50-34 and 12-32 only using a longer chain length or does it require a MTB rear derailuer?
At IM LT last year, I used an 11-32 cassette with a SRAM "Wi-Fli" rear derailleur ...not as long as an MTB, but not as short as standard road. 53/39 chain rings, but on my 650 wheels, same as compact cranks.
The top of the long climb gets up to 9% gradient; I was glad I had all those gears. I could hold 0.71 IF the whole climb @ 70-85 rpm
I personally hate the 32 cassette trend. It has WAY too much spread within the gears and causes a lot of RD adjustment. Tahoe is a tough course so you wouldn't want to ride a 23 or 25 but a 28 should be just fine especially when combined with a 50-34 and you don't have to fart around with a lot of mechanical adjustments and get tighter gearing. My $.02.
Comments
And the key question is what do you have up front? if you have 53/39 up front, you should use 11-27 unless it's flat as a pancake. You'll appreciate the lower gear.
If you have 50/34, it's more of a judgment call based on your strength as a cyclist and the terrain. You'll have more gear/cadence gaps with the 11-27 (which is annoying) but obviously the 11-27 gives you both a faster and an easier gear. If your W/ks (FTP) are in the 2.5-3.3 type range, unless it's very flat, I'd still go with the 11-27. if you're one of those 4+ studs, you can afford 12-25 unless it's got some really nasty hills.
Rich is a 4+ W/kg guy and he rides 50/34 in the front for Madison. (used to use 12-25 in the back...not sure what he's using now) Compacts are NOT "just for women".
hey Bill ,
im running the 11-28 with the compact 50/34 as my standard bike fit its got the all around gears for any course and i do like to have that little gear for hills in case i encounter them. My bike is my most challenging discipline as well which screws my run all to hell if i dont pace good and even if i do pace well it still sucks lol
ps. just dropped the bike at lLBS to install my new Quarg courtesy of Rich and wheel builder along with the 510 as my eyes arent what they use to be..looking forward to maryland in a few weeks
it is clear 12-32 is the preferred set up on the rear but he didn't mention what gearing is he assuming for the front crank....I assume he is using 50-34 compact set up ?
Is it possible to use this set up 50-34 and 12-32 only using a longer chain length or does it require a MTB rear derailuer?
The top of the long climb gets up to 9% gradient; I was glad I had all those gears. I could hold 0.71 IF the whole climb @ 70-85 rpm