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Power Meter for under $500?

I am new to Endurance Nation and would like to get a power meter if I can find one at the right price.  Are there any power meters that retail less than $500?  Or does anyone have a used power meter they would like to sell?

Comments

  • This is new to the market and has gotten some good reviews. It attaches to the crank arm is similar to the Stages power meter that up until know has been a price leader.

    http://4iiii.com/product/precision/



  • Jordan,
    There are some great threads to help you figure out what type you want. At a $500 price point, eBay will be your friend for Powertap wheels.

    Here is a quick search that yielded some good starting points for research.

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R-1.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xpowertap&_nkw=powertap+g3&_sacat=0

    Joe
  • I suggest looking for a used PowerTap wheel...you can probably get one for 500 or a little less
  • PM Coach rich to see what the EN discount is on Wheelbuilder PT wheels.
  • I got an older Powertap on a Zipp 303 carbon wheel on e-bay for just over $500 last summer. just save an e-bay search for "Powertap G3" and check it a couple of times a week to get an idea of what they are going for and you should be able to do OK. You just have to be patient because the prices seem to fluctuate a bit. Make sure that it is not the older wired version also. Sort by price and you will usually find a wheel with powertap that starts for less than $100. Obviously it will sell for more than that but if you follow several auctions you can find a pretty good deal.  Just be patient.



    If it had been in the budget, I would have gotten new but what I got has given me no problems.

  • Posted By Don Nowak on 10 Feb 2015 07:18 PM



    I suggest looking for a used PowerTap wheel...you can probably get one for 500 or a little less


    This is excellent advice. I have done this a couple of times actually with great success. I have a bulletproof $400 ANT+ powertap that is awesome as my backup.

  • Check your local Craigslist for power meters/ PowerTap also. You can occasionally find one there.
  • You got 3 days left on this one. Yes it is the older non G3 but if something happens to it, the upgrade to G3 from wheel builder is $235.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/CycleOps-Powertap-SL-Kinlin-Road-Bike-Rear-Wheel-700c-Clincher-Ant-/400859732103?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d551a1887
  • Thanks for all the replies. I am intrigued by the 4iiii...does anyone have any more info on it?

  • Posted By Jordan Marchewka on 11 Feb 2015 09:42 PM


    Thanks for all the replies. I am intrigued by the 4iiii...does anyone have any more info on it?

    Never heard of it. Highly, highly, highly recommend you don't get an unproven powermeter. MUCH better to get a used, proven, reliable system

  • Looking at Quarq power meters, how do I know what type to purchase? I saw one on eBay listed as Quarg S975 175mm -130bcd. Can someone help explain what the measurements and BCD mean? Or help me find the right size based on my bike? Specs are shown in the link below.

    http://2013.feltracing.com/USA/2013/TT-TRI/S-Series/S32.aspx
  • The S975 is the last generation unit. It has been replaced by two units. One is called Elsa and the other is Riken. I had an S975 and it worked perfect. It's a very tried and true platform and will not give you any of the potential "friction" that comes from first generation tech coming from a start up company.

    Quarq offered an upgrade program. The deal was send your older units in and upgrade for about 50% of retail. I upgraded to the Elsa. Without that offer I would still be riding the S975.

    BCD is bolt center diameter. If you want to install new chainrings they must be BCD 130 or the holes on the rings will not line up with the holes on the S975.

    The important number for your bike fit is "175mm". That means the cranks are on the long side. Most stock bikes come with 172.5mm and then people often go lower based on their bike fit. I am 5'9" and ride with 165mm cranks.

    Regarding will it fit on your bike, you may or may not need either a new bottom bracket or a set of bearings. Both are really cheap and the bike shop can do it when they install the crank.
  • Clarification - crank length is not just about height. It's about fit and riding style. Smaller cranks turn smaller circles. Longer cranks turn bigger circles. This can effect RPM and torque. A longer crank provides a longer lever arm and thus can apply more torque.

    A shorter crank will allow you to raise your seat. My 165mm is 10mm shorter at the top and bottom of the pedal arc meaning my seat can go up 10mm. Longer cranks will bring your seat down for the same reason.
  • Good description by Dino. A couple of things to add is that BCD 130 is what is used for "standard cranks" with it commonly 53/39. Your bike came spec'ed with Compact cranks which is 50/34 these have a BCD of 110. Neither is better, but they are different. The compact cranks allow you to have "easier" climbing gears. The vast major of riders would likely be better off with compact cranks (BCD110). I agree on the S975 being a very good PM and you can likely find one cheap. Quarq also has very good customer service should you have any issues with it in the future. If you get a PM with a GXP bottom bracket, you can put it on just about any bike (maybe after changing out your Bottom Bracket or adding an adapter, but both of those are cheap and easy). You may come across one with an FSA bb which should work directly on your bike without changing anything. I'd have to do a little research to see if a BB30 would work on your frame, since it wasn't obvious on my quick glance. I'm 6'-1" and I'm very happy with my 170mm cranks. I would think 175's are too long unless you're 6'-5" or just plan to use them for road cycling. There has been a decent amount of past discussion on crank length (and going shorter) in the Haus if you do some searches you'll likely find them.
  • Crank length is generally a function of the height of the rider. Again, generally:

    • ~5'6" = 170mm
    • ~5'6"-6' = 172.5mm
    • >6' = 175mm

    Then, over the last few years, some have gone with shorter cranks on their tri bike for the hip angle / bike fit reasons that Dino explained. For example, I have 172.5mm cranks on my road bike (I'm 5'9") and 165mm on my tri bike. I can't really say it's made a much of an material difference. In fact, I've found that crank length doesn't make much of a difference at all and it's not uncommon to find people with cranks outside of that prescription above who are doing just fine. 

    In short, if it ain't broke, don't fix it and as long as you're not 5'2" and riding 175mm cranks, you're likely fine. 

  • I'm 5'5" and ride 170mm cranks. I'd love to try 165mm but the logistics of "trying" a different crank size aren't exactly easy. I have tried multiple sizes in a in a bike shop fitting situation but didn't notice any difference in such a short trial where lots of variables were being changed.

  • Posted By Matt Aaronson on 15 Feb 2015 11:38 AM


    I'm 5'5" and ride 170mm cranks. I'd love to try 165mm but the logistics of "trying" a different crank size aren't exactly easy. I have tried multiple sizes in a in a bike shop fitting situation but didn't notice any difference in such a short trial where lots of variables were being changed.

    Given your bike prowess to this point, I;d suggest not changing unless and until you hit a wall competition-wise and clearly need something other than training or race execution skill to get over the hump. "If it aint broke, don;t fix it"

  • Yeah, "it ain't broke" is true as far as my crank length is concerned.
  • Jordan - what type of bike do you have?  I have a spare Quarq S975 and Cinco that I may be willing to part with.


  • Posted By Jeremy Behler on 20 Feb 2015 10:34 AM

    Jordan - what type of bike do you have?  I have a spare Quarq S975 and Cinco that I may be willing to part with.

    I have a 2013 Felt S32.  How much are you looking to sell them for?

  • Hello. I am in the market for a power meter on a budget as well. (Racing IMMT this year) I have read through many of the forum discussions and I still am not sure which way to go. I am hoping to spend less than $500. My brother uses the Newton ibike and he recommended that to me. Coach Patrick advises to stay away from that product, as it is hard to manage. Has anyone had experience with this? I have checked craigslist and EBAY but have yet to find anything in my price range. Reading the forums, I have to say I feel a bit out of my league. I am brand new to power, so much of the discussion is Greek to me at this point. I am not even sure what to look out for on EBAY. I simply want to improve my cycling. I am told that a power meter can be an effective tool to reach that goal. My question is, is there anything out there that is worthwhile for $500 or less -or should I just stick with heart rate training?

    Any advice would be much appreciated!

  • Amy,

    There are quality PowerTap wheels available on eBay all the time. For example, here is one:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cycleops-Powertap-Pro-hub-32h-Velocity-rim-with-stainless-DT-spokes-/151596855817?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

    As I post this, the auction price is at $350. I expect this will close at/near $450 based on "Completed Listings"

    Click here (assuming you have an account at eBay) for a list of auctions that have ended recently for the search term "Powertap PRO+". There were some DEALS....

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Powertap+Pro+&LH_Complete=1&rt=nc

    You can ask others about iBike, I have no personal experience, but I do with Powertap. It is well proven and long lasting. I have had my wheel for almost five years now and I am *very* happy with it.
  • I agree with Joe-   Powertap wheels are very well proven and you will definitely find one on eBay for well under $500.  If you want a front/rear set for training, this set will also likely trade for under $500.  



    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bontrager-A...1e9a153f0c



    I had a set like it for yrs and they were bombproof...

  • Amy...I used an iBike from 2006-2010, then switched to PowerTap. I totally regret the time and money I spent on the iBike. WAY too cpnfusing to set up and keep calibrated, and even then, it was useless half the time. The PT just ..,works, no thinking or hassle. If you cant find a used PT, stick with HR for now. The work you do is more important than the measurement method.

  • Hey Folks, Thanks for all the information here! I'm a HR athlete now but have been thinking about going to power if I could find an affordable option. The PowerTap certainly seems like a good option. I ride my bike on the trainer for the weekday rides (and even weekend too if bad weather). Since I use the trainer so often I have a separate wheel I use (based on the advice of others so I don't damage or too quickly wear out my road wheel/tire) on the trainer. If you use a PT, how do folks handle this? 2 PT's, one on trainer wheel, one on road wheel. Folks with PT not use trainer? Use road wheel on trainer? Because I use 2 wheels I was thinking about a crank based PM solution.

    Interested in others thoughts...

    Thanks!
    Erik

  • Posted By Erik Schlanger on 23 Feb 2015 11:43 AM





     If you use a PT, how do folks handle this? 2 PT's, one on trainer wheel, one on road wheel. Folks with PT not use trainer? Use road wheel on trainer? Because I use 2 wheels I was thinking about a crank based PM solution.  

     


    I use a crank-based powermeter, less for the reason you describe and more because I have dedicated race wheels and also different wheels for my road bike, etc. If you train and race with the same wheel (as many people do, e.g. "looks like a disc wheel but really is a wheelcover"), overcoming the trainer issue is no problem.

    My dad uses a powertap and here's how we work the trainer:

    - In winter, trainer tire on the wheel, no outdoor riding

    - In summer, a really heavy-duty tire for training that will also stand up to the trainer on weekdays - lots of options although he uses a Bontrager "hardcase" tire

    - For racing we swap tires and put on a tire just for the race. He doesn't do a lot of racing so this is minimal hassle. If you race a lot it becomes a pain

  • Thanks for the advice! I will check it out.

    Joe and John -

    The links you sent were helpful! I am sorry to ask so many questions, but here goes: If I go with a powertap, what exactly do I need? I see some listings for wheel sets, others for hubs, etc. -Then I will obviously need the computer to link it to, which (at least the ones that were listed) does not seem too costly. Should I be looking for complete wheel sets?  If it matters, I do not ride a tri bike. ( I ride a Specialized Ruby Elite. -Not a high end bike, but a good fit for me.) -And although it is a goal of mine to be able to really know my bike inside and out, I am not there yet, so I would have to look up the specs. I am wondering if there is anything specific I should be looking for that would work on my particular bike, or do they universally fit? Again, thank you for your patience and advice. I truly appreciate it!!!


  • Posted By Erik Schlanger on 23 Feb 2015 11:43 AM




    .......The PowerTap certainly seems like a good option. I ride my bike on the trainer for the weekday rides (and even weekend too if bad weather). Since I use the trainer so often I have a separate wheel I use (based on the advice of others so I don't damage or too quickly wear out my road wheel/tire) on the trainer. If you use a PT, how do folks handle this? 2 PT's, one on trainer wheel, one on road wheel. Folks with PT not use trainer? Use road wheel on trainer? Because I use 2 wheels I was thinking about a crank based PM solution.



    Interested in others thoughts...



    Thanks!

    Erik

    Erik - I have one wheel.  That's it.  I use it on the trainer, on the road, and in races.  Right now, it is a Zipp808 with a Powertap PRO+ hub.  And, at this moment, I still have my Bontrager R4Aero tire on it...which has been there since I installed it prior to IMChattanooga in September.  I have run this setup for a few OutSeasons now with not a single problem -- in fact, I have yet to ride outside since the middle of December, so every OS ride has been on the trainer.

    Why an 808?  Long, long story.  However, if I were to do it again, I would put a Powertap hub in a lightweight, sturdy wheel and then just use a wheelcover for races to get the full aero effect of a disc, but only spending an extra $100 to do so.

    There are lots and lots of quality wheelsets with Powertap hubs on eBay almost continuously.

    If you have to have new, contact Coach Rich and he can hook you up with Wheelbuilder.

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