Value of a Low VI: The Science
This month's Lava had an article on "economy", covering all tri disciplines. They referenced a study which was intriguing, the conclusion of which says: "A highly variable power distribution in cycling is likely to impair 10 km triathlon run performance." I searched, and found the original article, from Australia in 2013. While they studied an hour's cycling followed by a 5 mile run, they found what we've been preaching here for over a decade: the lower your VI while cycling, the faster you'll be able to go in a subsequent run. They kept *average* power the same, and had one group ride like roadies, and another group ride like an EN ninja. Running times were 6% faster in the ninja group. Duh. Here's the link to the full text:
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Given the physiological cost of increasing watts above a given reference point is (almost certainly ) exponential in nature, and that Pav is what actually pushes you down the road, then when you solve the optimisation problem, you find the solution is:
maximising Pav for a given Pnorm, then the lower the VI, the faster you will go for a given physical cost.
Or alternatively, minimising Pnorm for a given Pav, will give you the minimum physical cost for a given speed.
Which give us the optimal strategy for the bike - which is, of course, the EN Ninja strategy of minimising your VI.
And as I would expect, this is what Al said!
A couple months ago, I talked to CoachP during office hours about how to ride with a low VI. Being relatively new to power, I was having a hard time staying on a small range of watts and keeping VI low. CoachP had a great thought that has helped me immensely. He said, another great metric that correlates to steady power is steady HR. As a noob to power, instead of watching the 3s watts, I watch my HR. I find a number 145-147 and just try to keep it in the range. This has yielded some pretty awesome VI's of 1.03-1.07 on steady rides, as opposed to the 1.10-1.17 rides where I was trying to chase a range of watts, fighting my gearing, changing cadence to try and stay on 150 - 155. Very helpful.
Do you need more gears? If you are reduced to 60 rpm or even less just to get up hills with some semblance of "steady", you may need more teeth in the back, or fewer in the front.
3' 155. 157
2'. 160. 169
1'. 182. 192
30". 204. 227
5". 303. 344