Buying a Road Bike

Andres Duarte

Ideally I would like that the training I do on the road bike translates as much as possible to the tri-bike.  Does that affect the geometry of the road bike I should choose? 

I have  Trek Speedconcept 7.5.. really like it, but doing a century ride or going into group rides she doesn't work that well.  So I am considering buying a road bike, but in making the decision I was wondering if besides the fitting I need to think about geometry and other parametres in choosing it, as my priority goal is still triatlon.

I like the Specialized Tarmac

Leslie Knight

My thought is that my road bike and my tri bike are for totally different things.  I would look at what you want your road bike for and then buy the one that works for that. If you like centuries and some events that don't allow TT style bikes, then get something comfortable for long rides.  Sometimes my roadie is perfect for those days when I just want to relax, hit the mountains, or take on some less than ideal roads without being jarred to pieces. 

A got fitter can help you find one that would be good in aero position.  I prefer to ride that way, so that's how mine is set up.  The fit for that and riding upright is different. Get fit first, then buy the bike.

Al Truscott

I broke down and bought a Tarmac last month after 20 years of riding on a steel road bike with relaxed geometry, meant for touring. I agree that road bikes are one thing, and TT bikes are another. You can get strong for triathlons by riding *any* kind of bike - I've had lots of miles on mtn bike, tandems, and the touring bike, as well as commuting. It was all good for strengthening my legs and lungs, and I'm glad I had (have) the variety to choose from. Meaning, you don't need to have your road bike geometry be like TT geometry to get training value from it. I have my Tarmac (with disc brakes) for riding in the terrain I find myself in: hills, mountains, and frequent wet weather. When it comes to doing long training rides in the 12 weeks for an A race, though, I am on my TT bike to get adjusted to the aero position for multiple hours, drinking while riding aero, etc. But I will ride my Tarmac on occasion in that time frame, just for fun.

Get the tool for the job you intend to use it for; there's more to cycling than doing long time trials followed by a run. Have fun with your fitness as well as prepping for races.

Tom Glynn

Like the others have stated, I have a road bike for fun and my tri bike when it's time to get serious. I've got a Cervelo S5 for my road bike and it's aero, but a lot more fun to ride than my tri bike. I can ride for a very long time in the bike and not be concerned about sore back, neck, etc. For group rides I always use my road bike. No one wants a triathlete in aero bars on a group ride.

Kevin Schroth

Agree with the other posts. Other important considerations are how much you want to spend and what material you want. Carbon fiber is the dominant material these days, but it's worth considering other options like steel or aluminum. Steel gives you a great comfortable ride with a feel for the road. It's a little heavier but less expensive. Aluminum used to be known for providing a stiff ride that's great for sprinting but not comfortable for the long haul. However, the technology has improved making this another well-priced option. I have an aluminium Cannondale CAAD10 that rides very well, along with an older LeMond steel bike, and a carbon fiber Orbea tri bike. Each one has a special place in my quiver.

Andres Duarte

Thanks for all your advise!! Agree they are for very different purposes, in a tri bike doing a group ride I can only be at the front or back". and breaking downhill is a different story on each one.

I know this is a rookie question, but what do you mean by aero position vs upright? I thought (and that was why I post the question) that for a tri bike the angle of the seat post is completely different from a road bike, not only for the body position, but also for the muscles you used (in a tri bike saving some effort to the running muscles), and that after you get that angle the fitting will do the rest trying to balance comfort vs aerodynamics.

So when you say aero... is the angle or is just how aggressive you are trying to be more aerodynamic vs comfortable in the bike?

Al, any feedback on the Tarmac, are you happy with it? I have some issues with my back, so carbon for me is ideal and a frame that isolate me a little from the road. Price.. well I need to take advantage that my CFO (wife) is allowing me to buy one... so I what to buy a really good one, but one that really cover my needs. Carbon, yes, dura ace..uhmm, disk brake.. I think yes, electronic shifters ... uhmmm, ceramic ...no, super wheels , no ... that gets me I believe to 3000 budget no?

Thanks

Al Truscott

Aero - a catch all term in cycling referring to efforts made to reduce the effect of wind resistance. Two primary means: modify the bike, primarily the frame, so that it offers less surface area to the wind, and the surface area it does offer allows air to flow more smoothly around it. And modify body position, primarily by getting the head and chest lower, and the arms (which confront the air first) closer to the body.

TT bike geometry as you point out allows the rider to adopt a more "aero" position with less cost to comfort, safety. The same is accomplished on road bikes by the rider simply moving his body parts into a more "aero" position - bending down and forward as opposed to sitting upright, etc., some of which maneuvers are sketchy from a safety perspective, and also might prevent effective action on the pedals.

Minor "aero" impacts can be made by changing the nature of the wheels, the effect of clothing/helmets, and a few other odds and ends.

Cost - unfortunately, a Tarmac with disc brakes and electronic shifting (mine uses Ultegra) will cost more than twice your stated budget, unless that was tongue in cheek. I've been riding my Tarmac up and down serious big mountains in CO, and serious steep and curvy hills in the Puget Sound lowlands, and have not regretted my purchase one iota. I'm way faster and more confident on it than I imagined I would be, despite decades of all sorts of riding: mountain biking, bike commuting, cross country touring, tandeming, etc.

John Withrow

Doesn't have the disc brakes, but here's a great bike in that price range: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Scott-Addict-15-Di2-Carbon-Road-Bike-CD22-/151777644857?hash=item2356a71139

I think worth giving up the D/A to get into Electronic shifting.

This bike is 11-speed though. Do you want to move to 11-spd, or keep all 10-spd stuff assuming that is what your Trek SC currently has...

Andres Duarte

That is a nice bike!

I just don't see the advantage of electronic shifting, I understand they weight the same and are more precise.. but are they worth it?

 

John Withrow

I personally like the Di2 because of the crisp shifting. I can actually tune my deraileurs myself (can NEVER get mechanical ones right). and you can match shift (front and rear at the same time). You also get auto-trim of the FD as you mover across the cassette with the RD.

But agree that it is $$$. If you're comfortable with mechanical shifting, then just buy this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-SuperSix-EVO-Hi-Mod-Shimano-Ultegra-11-Sp-54-cm-Custom-Bike-Used-/231671421129?hash=item35f0b158c9

Tom Glynn

Try Di2 shifters on your tri bike and you'll never go back. Game changer. I have electronic shifters on bars and aero bars. For a road bike, they are nice to have, but not that important, IMO.

Paul Hough

Jordan Rapp - multiple IM winner including last month's IMMT does the MAJORITY of his training on a road bike. Most of the arguments for a tri bike are BS. Here's his blog on why you and I need one (actually, I have 2 tri bikes and 2 road bikes).

http://blog.rappstar.com/2014/04/why-triathletes-need-road-bike.html

Andres Duarte

Hi Paul
Really interesting blog, it makes sense!!