Is 1 x 11 the future?

William Jenks

So, it's clear enough that on road and tri bikes, the world is or has graduated to 11-cog rear systems (up from 10).

You see a few people now with 1 x 11 systems where the front is something like 52 and the rear is something like 11-38, which means you need a derailleur that can handle that....but I imagine there are several.

Simplification (no front derailleur) is an advantage, and I imagine there is a small weight advantage (lessened by the big rear cassette).  But what are the disadvantages?  I assume there are some gear gaps that you can't fill by switching both front and rear.  What else?  What do people think who have tried it?

We have enough bikes in the house that I try to keep as many of them on the same system as possible, and right now we have both 10 and 11 speed rears, so I've been thinking about this.  

Is it equally useful for both road and tri bikes?  Or better for one than the other?

Thanks!

 

Paul Hough

I've been thinking of converting one of my 10 speed tri bikes to a 1 x 11 after the big crank wears out. For most of the flat courses in Florida it would be a perfect bike, but unless you are animal a 1 x 11 even with a huge cage on back would give you a lot less options than a 2x10 or 2x11. I would not have wanted that set-up for races I've done in the Alps. Mo gears is mo better, right? To really make it work you need to have a Front DR that easily unbolts rather than one that is bossed into the frame. Until my crank is worn out it's not worth the cost to change over. You have to have the X-Y teeth and chain to ensure there is no slip off the crank. And if you are into electronic shifting now you are getting the benefit of Di2 only on the rear. No way would I consider doing this on my road bikes.

William Jenks

Thanks. Just a thought. 52/38 = 1.39 and 34/26 = 1.31, so clearly enough, you'd have to get to a way big gear in the back to get things as easy as with a compact and an 11/26.

John Withrow

I rode a fat bike all yr last yr with a 1x11. The biggest I could go int the front was a 28, so not exactly what you are asking since that bike was only limited on the top end.

BUT, I did a ride with a couple of friends this past weekend. This was the same ~58 mile loop I did a bunch of times last yr with ~2,800' of total elevation. I went to my small ring exactly 0 times. There were a couple of short rollers that I mashed over in slightly too big of a gear, but I think I only went into my 52/26 one or two times.

So depending on where you live, I think a 1x11 is a very real option and I don't think you need the 38 on the back fro most of it. A 28 is likely all you need... If you lived in Florida (or Minnesota for that matter). I think a 1x is ideal. And much less moving parts than a 2x. Nearly impossible to drop a chain in a 1x setup. I have dropped a chain in 3 of my 8 IM races. I'd say a 1x with a 11-28 would be the perfect setup for at least half of the IM race courses if you're a strong cyclist. I certainly wouldn't want one for Placid or even MT. Tremblant, and definitely not in the Alps. But it would be great for FL, AZ, Coz, Challenge AC, etc. etc.

Coach Rich

I'm sure this is a function of where I live, but I know I've never found myself saying "damn you, small chainring!!" I regularly use all of the gears on my bike and just don't see how having an small ring and FDR could possibly be holding me back...unless I were training and racing in Flatland. 

Paul Hough

Exactly. It all depends on where you typically race. SRAM says so on the 1x products...see below. So unless you have 2 race bikes or are sure you will never race in really mountainous terrain, I would not recommend this. For me, I need the 1xcrank, X-sync chain, new 11 rear cassette, new DR, and new single shifter, plus adjustment for one of my 10 speed wheelsets ... not cheap for marginal benefit so I'll wait until my current stuff is ready for replacement.

"Advancement means engineering for rider needs as they change, even if it walks all over traditional engineering doctrine along the way. SRAM 1x™ technologies developed for MTB changed what a drivetrain looks like in the dirt. Now, the same drivetrain renaissance is happening for road, exclusively from SRAM. We understand that not every road is right for 1x. 2x systems (two chainrings up front) are great for rides or races where drastic changes in terrain are common – think lung-busting climbs and ripping descents.

1x or 2x, SRAM road drivetrains provide a simpler, lighter solution to tackle an incredible range of terrain, on the bike of your choice.

https://www.sram.com/sram/road/sram-1x-and-2x

robin sarner

yes do it.

see my recent thoughts in a thread of Tim Cronk's.   plan to convert my old tri bike.

52 by 11/42 gets the exact same range as 52/34 by 11/28.            so could be used for hills and flats.       

sram Rival 1 long cage.    sram aero500 shifters.    sunrace  cassette11-42.           about $250 for new parts on ebay.

I think that cassette is standard road hub compatible.     if not, there is an 11 speed shimano 11-42 cassette.

could even go 10-42.     this involves a hub conversion kit.      (not talking changing whole hub and spokes).          easy thing to do if there is one for your road hub. 

for the SRAM 1 x 11 system, there is no 52 compact chainring.    50 is largest I believe.     but regular 52 compact chainring should work ok, I think.

will let you know if I do it.

Kane Murphy

I did it, but I live and do most all of my riding in south Louisiana.  Completely flat here.  I purchased a 52T chain ring for the front and the rear derailleur with the clutch thing in it to keep the chain tight.  No new chain, no new wheels, and for now I have just kept my existing 10 speed cassette.  If I end up doing an event with some hills, I will get one of the  wide range 11 speed cassettes from SRAM and remove one of the middle cogs so it fits on my 10 speed wheel.  For 130 BCD rings, 52T is the smallest Sram X-sync chain ring you can get, but if you have a 110BCD crankset you can get smaller size rings.  

If anyone is thinking about converting an existing bike and has questions, let me know.  I can try to help.