Race wheel disk vs cover
I am not very good at using the EN forum search engine, I am sure this topic has been discussed heavily, but I am not finding it. I am considering taking a plunge into race wheels after recently being given the run around for rentals.
- What is the advantage to a disk over a cover? I understand the cover is way cheaper, provides most of the benefits. So why do I see tons of disks out there?
- If one buys a disk, must you also own a non-disk rear racing wheel as a back up on days when the disk is not legal/allowed? Is this similar to water temps and wetsuit legality?
- Is there any real way to prove a used wheel set is not injured in some way? Is there a method to confirm an ebay purchase is sound?
- When travelling with these wheels, I assume all would use a separate wheel bag, rather than the bike-and-wheel boxes, to protect the wheel, thus making the experience of traveling slightly more annoying?
Thanks,
DS
Comments
Wheelcover is a total no brainer at less than 10% of the cost of a true disk wheel. Very easy to remove the cover if you need to for a specific race.
I think some people have disks because they just want to have the bling. Personally...I just can't justify the delta between a disk and a wheelcover that is 99% as good at a small fraction of the cost.
But full disclosure, I have a couple disc covers (and have used them for many races), but I also have a Zipp Sub-9 disc (got it on sale, but still cost ~$1k). I like toys (a lot). The disc is hella cool and makes a cool sound when you ride fast on it. And my bike looks meaner with it on. And it matches my front FC808 perfectly. Did I mention it looks cool...?
I'm also in the cover camp. It took me maybe an hour to get the cover on and adjusted so that it doesn't rub. I'm now just leaving it on full time in season. It does take an extra minute to inflate with the cover on, dealing with the crack pipe. And every month or so I have to re-tape the drive side to the spokes to prevent rubbing on the cassette. Otherwise it just works, is a lot faster than without, and was only $80.
It would be more convenient to have a separate disc, but not enough to justify the cost for me. Though I was tempted when Flo was clearing out their old models for $450...
I don't know of many races in our area where you have to worry about discs not being allowed. So mainly an issue for destination races? A cover does give you the option of switching back to a non-disc if needed, but you will need some tools (chain whip, torque wrench, cassette lockring tool) and a little time.
Thanks, Mark! I'll give that a shot.
The first time I mounted it I tried tape only (no connectors) to avoid warping and it rubbed on both the cassette and non-drive side chain stay. Adding the connectors made a big difference. Hopefully shorter ones will work even better.
Kona and Cozumel do not allow discs. There may be other races I'm not aware of where that is routine.
Pro tip: if you have a PowerTap hub, the cassette can be removed easily without a chain whip, locking tool, etc.
The only advantages to a disk are: look cool, they go 'whoosh whoosh', more convenient/less learning curve than with wheel cover. What about weight?
@JW: I am with you, like toys, curious - when you bought your disk on sale, was it used? Did you somehow inspect the wheel if used?
Lastly, with the money saved using a cover, is one then automatically to buy an 808 or some deep dish front wheel, or is there a cover-type hack for the front wheel too?
Disc cover - very effective.
BUT, hard to be the cool effect of a Hard disk going by with the sound effects as JW mentions if cash is not an issue.....I have used both...
a race could last minute outlaw disc due to high winds. if you have cover can take it off. if you have disc, you are sol.
no front wheel fairing adjustments that I know of.
...There may be a weight advantage climbing and slightly better performance in a direct headwind with a disc. But I was finding substantial evidence that the wheel cover actually out performed a disc in any skewed wind because of the curved shape.
I stuck with my wheel cover.
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/aero-disc-covers.html
Ditto the thoughts on wheel cover over disc. I have used both during races, and find no speed improvement using zipp disc. My used cervelo P3 came with a rear zipp disc powertap. One issue I have with the zipp disc is changing a tire/flat... well, let's say p.i.t.a. is too kind of a statement. If I flatted during an actual race, getting the tire back on the zipp disc would be nearly impossible for me with sweaty hands. Maybe that's just me. That rim is just enough wider that I have such a hard time getting any tires back on without destroying my hands. I feel much 'safer' with my wheel cover on the G3 hub power during races, and used it over the zipp during IM MOO 2015. I had a 25 min improvement on the bike over MOO 2010 too, but the engine was a bit stronger too with 5 yrs EN training under the belt. Save your money, and get the wheel covers.
I bought mine when Active.com was blowing out previous year inventory. But, I would feel comfortable buying a used one on eBay or Craigslist, but you really have no way of telling if it is pristine or has been damaged. As long as it is "true" when it shows up, it's probably fine. I don't think I've ever heard of a catastrophic failure of a disc wheel leading to a serious accident. There's about 99% more carbon in one than they need to be safe... If it's not "true" day one, it never will be because unlike a normal spoked wheel, you can't just tighten a few spokes to straighten it out.
I don't know of any credible hacks for adding fairings to front wheels, but yes, use the saved money to buy one... I race with a FC808 front wheel in almost all weather conditions and course profiles. I used to have a set of 404's as well, but I sold them a while back because I really found no use for it. I generally train on training wheels and race on the deepest dish ones I can. But I'm also ~180-185lbs (race weight) and believe I have much better than average bike handling skills (for a Triathlete anyways).
They other final note is that this is a good sales pitch for a crank or pedal based power meter because with those you can use or swap or borrow or rent any type of wheel you want...
There was a Kickstarter type deal for convertible wheels, but I would just get a dedicated aero one. The Flo 60 is a good value, but they are sold out until July. Maybe find one used?
My hack for the front is a Flo 30, which I use full time. It gets me 80% of the aero time savings available over a box-section wheel. On a hilly course like IMC I lose about a minute compared to a 60-90 mm deep wheel. But it was only $224. It's a relatively wide wheel too so a more comfortable ride than the stock Shimano wheels. And not being so deep means I worry less about crosswinds (though most folks don't have a problem with a 60).
I am more concerned about riding a deep wheel up front that I am with a disc. You are a buck 80+, in theory, you should not have stability problems that most racers face.
Given my circumstances, a wheel cover is not a practical solution. I have one set of wheels which I train and ride in between my tri and road bike. I have a PowerTap laced into my Zipp FC 303. I race at least twice a month on my tri bike sometimes even more. It is too much of a hassle to keep taking it off and on again as I race on my tri bike and ride on my road bike. And the wheel cover is durable but not designed for everyday use. So I am saving for a disc wheel.
Will see after MT if I want to buy one, there is are a few LBS that sell used wheels in town.