Starting out with P1S, and then upgrading later.
Just looking for opinions on starting out with PowerTap's P1S (Left Only) pedals, with the option to upgrade later to a dual-sensing system.
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2016/09/eurobike-power-meter-roundup.html#powertap-p1s-left-only-pedals
Seems like a cost-effective way to get into power.
Thoughts??
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I've had a PowerTap hub since 2010, when a 40% deal came up. Two years ago, I got a Stages left crank for $400 (EN deal), then this October, got the PowerTap P1 pedals with both L and R measurement for half-price on a Kona promotional deal. Before all that, I used an iBike, which originally went for under $300. So I've got a history of trying to get power on the cheap. I agree with Mark, starting with left-side only is a good way to jump in. Pedals vs cranks: pedals are easier to change from bike to bike, even for the left side only cranks, as one might have different crank lengths on different bikes.
Now, is there a value to having L/R balance and other unilateral data? I'm learning there is. I'm using the P1s only on the trainer, and even there I have a 53/47 ratio L/R wattage. Not an issue with improper readings, as when I do single leg drills, I get 100/0 and 0/100. I've started to investigate why I have the imbalance, and what (if anything) I might do about it. Rather than hi-jack this thread, I'll start a new one later today (when I'm done with a drill workout) for that topic.
As to whether to get the P1s, all I can say is my experience with Power Tap's hubs and pedals is they are VERY easy to use, and seem to be rock solid. The idea of forward compatibility makes sense. You should be able to find at least 10% off on their price (CleverTraining via DC Rainmaker), and maybe more.
I posted the question about powermeters a couple weeks ago under a forum called "Looking for a Power Meter - Any suggestions?" and got really good feedback. I suggest you take a look at it for more information.
The conclusion of that forum was to get the P1 with left and right measurement. I know it's a bit more expensive but it's a purchase that will be amortized over a long time. I ended up buying the P1 and just got them last night on the mail.
I called Competitive Cyclist, Art's Cyclery, and Tri Sports and asked them if they had a special promotion on P1 since it seems that the price was even among every retailer online. All three of them offered a discount and ended up saving $200. I encourage you to do the same and you might be able to get both pedals for only a small extra over what you will be paying for only one.
Hope this helps.
$1000 for P1 (dual side) (discount from BackCountry)
$630 for P1s (left side only with option to upgrade later (price unknown))
Or.. stay with Heart Rate for the time being.
Jason ... in the grand scheme of triathlon value, L/R power readings rank BELOW things like: getting a professional bike fit; aero helmet; good racing wheels (which can be a lot cheaper than you might think, when you use Wheelbuilder's Aerojacket wheel covers). If your $$ are limited, I say go with left-side only, and spend the other $400 on a good helmet, bike fit, and/or wheel cover. If you've got all that stuff, AND you have $1000, sure, get L/R. But if the bottom line is how fast you want to go on race day, the best bang for the buck lies elsewhere, meaning get a serviceable, inexpensive power meter, and aerocize your self and your bike.