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New bike or not?

Wanting the sage wisdom of those in the house. I have a Kestrel 4000 ltd with 10 speed DI2 Dura ace drive train and TriRig front end and brakes. It is a 2011 model and fits me pretty well. I already ride a disc and zip 808 front. It is about as tricked out and aero as I can get it at this point. My bike splits time wise for IM flat courses are in the 5:20 range and 70.3 is 2:30ish, also for flat courses. At 60 years old I am trying to decide is it worth it to spend the money on a new ride or just save the money since we old geezers can only get slower. Would love some opinions.

Comments

  • Jeff, I put down a 2:30 flat bike split this past weekend at Gulf Coast 70.3 ... on my 2012 BMC TM01; 10 speed mechanical w Enve System 8.9 wheels (I do NOT use a disc cover on these).  Frankly, I can't imagine that any bike is faster, although many are probably on par.  I've been thinking about upgrading next year to the new BMC TM01; not because I believe it is faster, but only because the new cockpit is so easy to dismantle and slides forward and straight off the bike with an ingenious cable release system. No other bike can do that.  It is the ease of packing that makes me envious of that new design because I don't believe it is even a watt faster than my 2012 variant.  

    Also, I would wait for the independent aero test results of the super bikes vs the felt standard to be released (in the next few weeks) to see if they really are faster or if it's all just white paper BS as some suspect.  Another question you have to ask yourself at our age is how long do you see yourself racing?  Every time I age up I decide there will be one more AG.  So I have another 5 years for sure before I reassess my ability and desire to continue.  In my mind, that's about the minimum amount of time to amortize a new bike purchase.  
  • Jeff, not an opinion, just my history. In 2000, I got a titanium double diamond QR. Between 2005-2014 (age56-65), I KQ'd 9 times on that bike. The ONLY original parts in 2017 are: bullhorn handlebars, seat post and rear triangle (front replaced after 2010 crash). My feeling...if it fits, don't f#%k with it. That said, I'll probably buy a new QR 6 this summer, mostly cause I got a windfall of $ from a former employer, and I want to see what it feels like. So a year from now, I could tell you if it's worth it. But, IMO, the keys to biking success are: ability to hold a good aero position for 5-6 hours without compromising run; sufficient and appropriate training; and smart race-day execution. A new bike is worthwhile ONLY if it significantly enhances the first of those.  Upgrading aerobars, wheels, saddle, drive train etc are a cost effective way to get increased value...which it sounds like you've already done.
  • On the other hand, I bought a Shiv a couple of years ago to replace my perfectly adequate Cervelo P3, circa 2005.
    I absolutely love the hydraulic brakes and the electro shifters running a compact crank and a 27 as my biggest gear on the cassette.  
  • Thanks for the advice guys. @paul every IM I do during the last half of the run I decide this is the last race for me  and then a month later I am back at it so who knows how long this will last. @Al I am totally in line with your thoughts and will probably keep what I have till I crash or something. @gregg nice looking bike. 
  • @Jeff Braaten - my only thought is if you "like" your bike... might consider building a nice bike if it's something you fancy, at this point in your life, can be a nice present. That said, while I just did that for my road bike, and I love the bike I built, I totally enjoy my P5 and see no reason to do anything different to it.. Now, my for my upcoming new car :-)

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