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eTap or Di2

I'm looking to upgrade my Specialized Shiv Tri bike (10 speed/Dura Ace derailleurs) to electronic shifting and 11 speed. My LBS is pricing out both using the latest Ultegra and SRAM Red components. Any pros/cons between Ultegra Di2 and SRAM eTap? 

Thanks!
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  • I went to etap (from mechanical shifting) a year ago Derrek and am
    completely hooked. The wireless shifting is quick and without issue, and
    micro-adjustments (if needed) are easy to dial-in.
    My setup has all 4 blips - 2 on aero bars and 2 on handlebars - and ease of
    use couldn't be better.
    Battery performance has been good ... and I also purchased a spare battery
    that I ride with just in case.
    I have no experience with di2 can't provide comparison ... though i like
    how clean the setup is without wires. Good Luck!


    On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 8:08 AM Derrek Sanks <
    teamenforums+d24697-s6029573@gmail.com> wrote:

    > [image: Endurance Nation Community]
    >
    > ------------------------------
    > Derrek Sanks started a new discussion: eTap or Di2
    >
    > I'm looking to upgrade my Specialized Shiv Tri bike (10 speed/Dura Ace
    > derailleurs) to electronic shifting and 11 speed. My LBS is pricing out
    > both using the latest Ultegra and SRAM Red components. Any pros/cons
    > between Ultegra Di2 and SRAM eTap?
    >
    > Thanks!
    >
    > --
    > Reply to this email directly or follow the link below to check it out:
    > https://endurancenation.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/24697/etap-or-di2
    > Check it out
    >
    >
  • Can't speak to eTap, but I switched to Ui2 this year and love it.  Crisp shifting with auto adjustments on FD.  Battery life is very good so far.  I have double buttons on basebar, single buttons on each aerobar extension for RD only.  I love the setup.  I have to add WiFli gadget, so that the Di2 system will transmit info (gear I am in, battery indicator) to the head unit.  Wouldn't change a thing otherwise.
  • I just got a new tri bike (Cervelo P3) and it comes with Ultegra Di2 Syncroshift. It's my first experience with electronic shifting and it's very smooth, but so is my Ultegra mechanical road bike.

    The only issue I have found is getting used to not having control of the chainrings as with Syncroshift you can only say "more or less resistance" and it would adjust as is seems necessary. On my mechanical I love going from big to small ring and vice versa all the time, this is not possible with the new Di2 as you basically loose control of your front derailleur. 

    As I put more miles into it I am getting more comfortable with it.
  • Also cannot speak to etap, or any electronic shifting on a tri bike (it'll be on my next one), but I upgraded my road bike to shimano ui2 a few years ago and LOVE it! The shifting is super sharp, haven't dropped a chain once since then, battery lasts forever. I think @Jeff Horn is speaking to the d-fly module that transmits gear setting and battery strength.

    In Mallorca last week I rented a mechanical shifter road bike and it sucked. Coming back to my electronic shifter this week was SO much better!
  • @Derrek Sanks  I am doing the exact same thing to my Trek SpeedConcept, mechanical 10sp to electronic 11sp.   My bike has a huge mechanical flaw in the shifting which can only be fixed by moving to electronic shifting.  After comparing buying a new bike with Ultegra Di2 already and upgrading my bike to Ultegra Di2 - it was a no brainer, the pricing was better and I get to keep a bike that I LOVE! 

  • I'm curious @Jenniferlyn Kryvicky what is the huge mechanical flaw you have with your SC?  I have a 2012 SC9.5 and have had a chain suck issue from day 1.  Not chain DROP, but suck from the bottom.  I have been to 3 different shops and dropped tons on new rings, chain catcher, chains, etc you name it.  Nothing fixed it.  Went to di2 thinking that would take care of the problem, but it is still there.  Maybe less frequent but still sucks and chain gets wedged between rear brake bolt and bottom bracket.  
    Yes @Scott Alexander d-fly forgot.
  • You can't go wrong with either one Derrek ... shifting will be like cotton candy.  Just be sure to get two sets of double buttons; full shifting capability in both aero and non-aero positions is critical
  • 1,000% agree with Paul's comments Derrek! Either way, electronic shifting
    is da bomb!

    On Fri, Apr 27, 2018 at 6:04 AM Paul Curtin <
    teamenforums+d24697-s6029573@gmail.com> wrote:

    > [image: Endurance Nation Community]
    >
    > ------------------------------
    > Paul Curtin commented on eTap or Di2
    >
    > You can't go wrong with either one Derrek ... shifting will be like cotton
    > candy. Just be sure to get two sets of double buttons; full shifting
    > capability in both aero and non-aero positions is critical
    >
    > --
    > Reply to this email directly or follow the link below to check it out:
    >
    > https://endurancenation.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/comment/263771#Comment_263771
    > Check it out
    >
    >
  • @Jorge Duque you can turn synchroshift off and separately controll the FD and RD with DI2...you just have to adjust the settings.

    @Derrek Sanks I have Di2 on my road and tri bikes.    I believe DI2 is cheaper and once it's installed it's super easy.   Never a need to repair or reset connections and with D-Fly you can update and change settings via BT.   The Tri setup is also simpler since you don't have the blip box to deal with.  Downside is mainly installation as you still have to route the wires internally.   I've played around with eTap.   Main benefit is install is super easy and compatible with basically any bike.   Each derailleur has a battery which is a pro or a con depending on how you look at it.   It is two batteries that you have to monitor, but if your RD dies you can swap batteries to get you home with full RD function.   (Note that when the battery begins to die on DI2 the front derailleur stops first so you have some warning).   Battery life shouldn't be an issue with either as a full charge will last many weeks or even months depending on how often you shift.   Main issue with eTap on a tribike is the blipbox.   It's not small, and depending on your cockpit finding a discreet/aero mounting solution can be a challenge.   

  • Jeff Horn said:
    I'm curious @Jenniferlyn Kryvicky what is the huge mechanical flaw you have with your SC?  I have a 2012 SC9.5 and have had a chain suck issue from day 1.  Not chain DROP, but suck from the bottom.  I have been to 3 different shops and dropped tons on new rings, chain catcher, chains, etc you name it.  Nothing fixed it.  Went to di2 thinking that would take care of the problem, but it is still there.  Maybe less frequent but still sucks and chain gets wedged between rear brake bolt and bottom bracket.  
    Yes @Scott Alexander d-fly forgot.


    @Jeff Horn  I have the first run of SC7.0 (2011 - pink and black WSD version) with the internal routing issues where the cabling rubs horribly internally and gets caught up and sporadically either ghost shifts or not shift at all.  It is a very aggressive frame internally that just wasn't thought of the consequences of cable routing.  We had many other issues with the bike - it was one of the first so it had all of the "ooops" on it  such as underspec'd seat post, bottom bracket issues, etc. - so when we contacted Trek, Trek basically said to me that they were already redesigning the bike for 2012 because there is no fix for the internal routing issues, so if I kept the bike I would ultimately have to change from mechanical to electronic shifting.   I decided to keep the bike as at that time it was not so important to me and I liked the bike aside from the issues, but now over years I am tired of not having confidence or faith that my bike will do I what I want it to.

    It is truthfully unnerving riding along and never knowing if it was going to stay in gear or if it would even shift when I needed it to.   It also has thrown the chain however via the front derailleur causing a total stop on an up hill as it jammed between the crank and the frame.  I now have a protector there that will not allow it to go past the gear.  

  • All, 

    Thanks for the input! Very helpful and lot to consider. I should receive the quotes from my LBS tomorrow and will see if there's a significant difference.
  • The quote from my LBS was more than I expected, and I don't know the exact components he used other than the latest Ultegra groupset (R8000) and SRAM Red.

    Do these prices sound about right?

    @Jenniferlyn Kryvicky is your cost for Ultegra Di2 in the same range?

    SRAM Red eTap wireless (with matching Sram Red crank) $2,500
    Ultegra Di2 $2,800 (Full Ultegra including crank, etc)

  • @Derrek Sanks -- I'm not surprised by that number.  Getting new stand-alone components costs more; granted that quote includes a lot of labor to switch everything out so it's probably in the sounds-about-right range

    But also look at a new bike.  That Felt IA10 with Di2 is $5K list and would fit you nicely.  Very similar to the Shiv in fit range and frame shape

    Can't help you though with selling the old bike ... there are four sitting in my basement storage room  :#
  • I agree....if it is just about dollars and cents you will almost always be better off selling your current whip and getting a new ride that already has electronic shifting. The transaction costs of uninstalling the mechanical and installing the new electronic shifting make it hard to justify financially.

    -Sent from my iPhone
  • @Derrek Sanks I got all my components off Backcountry.com during a sale on their shimano stuff.  Saved a ton, then just had LBS install / switch over.  I think I paid close to $850 for parts (no cranks) and maybe $225 for the switchover labor.  
  • @Paul Curtin @Jeremy Behler - The quotes did not include tax. Labor is an additional $200. Agree with looking at a new bike (or a 1-2 year old bike) since these prices are 40% - 50% the cost of a new bike. Ugh.

    Thanks @Jeff Horn - That's an option I'll consider too but I'd have to go to a different LBS to install the parts. LOL.
  • Yikes. You may want to find a different LBS. Those prices are highway robbery. You can get a full setup for $1500 on eBay brand new.

    -Sent from my iPhone
  • To close the loop on this, I went with the SRAM eTap. I ended up going to a more tri-focused LBS and their prices were more reasonable. Both eTap and Di2 cost about the same ~$1,600. I decided on SRAM due to very easy installation, no need for new shifter/brake assembly and the ability to customize the locations of the blips (shifters) on the aero bars and base bar. 

    Thanks again for all the advice!
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