Before you tell me to just go to my LBS...
Hey everyone. I am in the market for a new tri bike. I had a Felt B16 and never quite felt 'right on it and after an unrelated injury that kept me out of the tri scene for awhile, it found a new home via eBay. I currently ride a Specialized Ruby road bike which I love and had a retul fit dialed in on that without any real serious modifications. I guess my question is: can I use my current road bike geometry (not my actual measurements, the geometry of the bike itself) to narrow down my tri bike search? Before you tell me to take care of all of this with a fitter at my LBS that knows what they are doing, let me say that I have been in contact with them and I'm sure they will follow up at some point. In the meantime, I am consulting my friends at EN for input. I have been reading tons of stuff online but not sure I am really getting anywhere. What I am mostly asking is if it is possible to completely rule out certain models based on the fit of the road bike that I know and love? And likewise, are there some that I should be focusing on? Is this even something that can be determined based on my road bike setup? Thank you-
Comments
If you can get your retul fit coordinates (mostly stack and reach) you can definitely rule out SOME models of tri bikes, but not all. You'll still need to test ride and see how they feel.
Best piece of advice I got was to "ride what you fit, not fit what you ride!".
+2 on what Scott says above. A good fitter, and it sounds like you went to one, should be able to figure out the right stack/reach for a tri bike from their measurements on you. It would be better to get a tri bike fit on the retul and have the actual numbers as the position IS different than a road bike.
the fitter info on those numbers and thus what bikes fit you best is your first stop!
I handle operations for a 4 location LBS here in Central Oregon. So we get this and similar a lot.
Why not turn your question around? Instead of looking at everything on the market and trying to narrow down, why not ask the fitter for 4 tri bike recommendations based on your setup and go try those first? We use Guru and I am sure Retuul has the same feature of listing bikes that will work with your setup. Will save you a LOT of time.
Also, I know the Cervelo is the "default" bike of triathlon. You may also want check out the Specialized Shiv. Felt still makes some great trip bikes so don't rule them out.
Hope this helps.
An important reminder: tri bike geometry was invented 25-30 years ago to specifically help with two things: enable riding in an aero position for long periods of time while simultaneously avoiding muscular fatigue which would impact the run which follows.
It all started in the 80s, when roadies slapped aerobars on their road bikes for "short" (compared to 1/2 or full IM) time trials, which had no long run to follow. Quintana Roo went a step further, steepened the seat tube angle from about 73% to 78-80%, and dropped the head tube to get a more aero position. The tri-bike was born, and has been refined from that basic concept ever since.
My point: using your road bike geometry to guide a tri bike purchase is dangerous. They are two different machines, designed for two different purposes. The idea about fit for a tri bike is as much about comfort with the run in mind as it is about generating absolute power. It's a complex equation involving a personalized aero position relative to the power generated modified by how the hip flexors and quads are affected by the set-up. There is obviously no one right answer.
Thank you everyone for your responses, and for being kind. For those of you that are well versed in bike geometry, I'm sure you had to show some restraint. Lol. When I called my bike shop and said I was in the market for a tri bike, they did not suggest a fit first. I guess that's why I thought they could use certain measurements from my road bike fit session to get me into some options that they knew would work. Gear, especially cycling gear, is a knowledge area that I could use some improvement in.
@John Stark oddly enough, I haven't spent too much time focused on Cervelo. My LBS deals in Specialized and Felt so I was leaning that direction, pending the fitters suggestions.
@Al Truscott I really enjoy your explanation of things. Thank you.
Will be (im)patiently awaiting the fitter's suggestions. Lol.
@Nikki Pembrook - HA! My shop sells Specialized as well. But not Felt. Once you start testing riding bikes, choose what feels best and fits best. Not the brand. I have passed so many folks on the bike in an IM on $15,000 tri bikes and been blown by at an IM by folks on a 1980 Schwinn 10-speed with tassels on the bar ends. :-). Ok, that is a bit of an exaggeration. :-). But it proved to me again and again that it isn't about the bike - unless you need to save a few seconds to get a Kona slot. It's all about the rider.
Just look at Withrow's bike time riding a fatty at an IM. :-)
Keep us posted.
@John Stark Such true words about it not being about the bike...or the running shoes... or the gadgets. Lol. I have done sprints and oly on my road bike and passed people on impressive looking tri machines, while wondering if their wheelset cost about as much as my bike. 😮 And I've been passed on the run by a guy at least twice my age in cutoff jean shorts and combat boots. 🤣 Lol. True story. So I'm not a stranger to the idea that it is all about the work you put in and your body's ability to respond to that. Will keep you posted. Been fun to interact on forums as I am new to this.
Combat boots? That would crush my soul. 🤣
Welcome to the team, Nikki! Lots of way smart people in here to help you. Way smarter than me. :-)
@Nikki Pembrook As has been pointed out the engine is most important and there's no rush in upgrading the bike while working on the engine. I started out on a borrowed mountain bike for a few sprints then bought a used 10 speed. I took this 10 speed for 1 lap of the Lake Placed course in 2003 and realized I needed more gears and bought a used 8 speed Cannondale bike for the 2004 race. I was still slow but finished.
I don't have great knowledge in the bike fitting realm but when I finally wanted to purchase my first new tri bike I used Todd Kenyan at http://ttbikefit.com/ his pre-buy service http://ttbikefit.com/pre-buy-bike-fitting/
I had just moved and was not knowledgeable or confident in my local bike fitters so I let Todd know the 4 tri bikes that were offered at the two local shops. I was willing to travel if need be to find a bike that fit beyond these 4 models. In the end one bike was ruled out completely and I was able to secure the 1st choice a 2010 Specialized Comp transition which I still use today. The P2 and argon 18 were close 2nd's so I did have options.
The thing I liked about TTbikefit was the opinion of the best bike for me versus the suspicions I might have about the best bike fit to me that the LBS had to offer.
As to your question with the measurements that you LBS has taken it could remove some models. I provided a video, 3 body measurement (height, sternum to floor and crotch to floor) and 6 specific bike measurements from what was then my current bike, the Cannondale mentioned above. While Todd did not rule out my 4th option specifically which was a Kuota both the medium and large size posed some fit challenges for my body, based on stack and reach as Scott mentioned above.
I went and dug out the email from Todd. Sometimes it pays to never delete anything from my gmail account.
"Based on the data you sent, and the video, I would say the Specialized transition size L would work quite well (the comp model is priced the same as the P2) and this is a very aero frame. The size M Argon or 54 P2 would be the close 2nd choices - they are about the same fit-wise. Probably the worst match is the Kuota size L - it could work but may be a bit reachy for you, while the size M's stack may be a bit low. "
@Gordon Cherwoniak thanks for the info- I had no idea that website even existed!