Powermeter suggestions
I am currently riding on a DT Swiss 1.2 with a Powertap Pro+ Ant+
I love it, great wheel works like a charm. Problem is, I would like to get more aero on the rear wheel to match my 85mm front. Saddest part is I cannot use the Wheelbuilder cover because they will not work with Powertap hub on a Specialized Transition.
The hub I have is 32 hole and all the deep dish rims I found are 24 hole. Saris does not have an option on exchanging hubs. I am open for any suggestions as the only option I can think of is sell mine and rebuy a 24 hole Powertap hub.
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I'm in the same situation. My approach so far is to hold out for Metrigear to come through with their system sometime this year. Then I'll sell my powertap and just swap their pedals between my road/tri bikes and use whatever wheels I want.
The issue I see is that if you sell your wheel to get a nice race wheel with PT, then you have to ride that wheel 100% of the time. I did this for 2 years and I was fortunate not to have any issues, but after a while things like dealing with value extenders every time you flat gets old quick. Plus it really sucks as you can't use a tube from someone else if you flat. I also worried ever single time I hit a pothole with my race wheel.
I switched to a quarq this year and love it. I can now you any training wheels I want and any race wheels. I also swap it between 3 different bikes. The downside is that it is more expensive at ~ $1500. I would give that some serous consideration before getting a PT in a race wheel.
The Metrigear looks awesome, but I'm not holding my breath waiting for it until it is out on the market and proven to be accurate and dependable.
Matt I agree with you. I would love if someone had experience making a wheelbuilder cover work. I got one even after Wheelbuilder themselves said it would not work. I did a lot of fiddling and it still rubs. Quark is an option but it also has other issues. All of your bikes have to have the same BB design to swap, correct? That may not be the case with me as the road bike I am building won't have the same. It's also a big money investment like you said.
As far as race wheel/training wheel, one other option is to put a cheaper wired version in the race wheel. I would have to use their head unti as opposed to the Garmin 705 but I am assuming, I can get the same data from it and download it later the same way?
I am saving a lot on the wheels and bike frame, getting the frame from OEM manufacturer and trying out Real Design wheels (Yishun rims) so maybe just spend a little more on another hub. Disappointing.
I totally agree on the cost factor as the Quarq will be more and may not be worth it as you already have a working PT. However, I'm not sure what other issues there are. If all your bikes are BB30, you can get a BB30 quarq and easily swap. If all your bikes have standard english or italian BBs, get an SRAM standard quarq and you can easily swap (spare BB's can be found brand new on ebay for under $30 with shipping). If you have one BB30 and one non-BB30 bike, get the standard crank and a BB30 adapter. It will add another $40 dollars but you can now use the same crank on both bikes.
What about just renting a 808 or 1080 with wireless PT in it for your A-race?
The rentals are about $200? Maybe I am just being too cheap here.
I believe the adapter itself sits instead the BB30 bottom bracked and then the standard english external bearings screw into it. Effectively it makes the transition BB work like the road bike.
Take a look at this: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/r....19.1.html
If you are seriously considering this, just call the quarq guys up as they are very helpful.
I did have an issue with a slight bulge on the non-drive side, but got that worked out.
Vince
I have a 2008 Transition TT bike and I have been able to use a wheelcover with my 404 rear with a PT hub with no issues. Curious if the 2010 model is slightly different than mu 2008 model.
Yes, PT Elite+ hub. Maybe the Kinlin is more narrow than the DT Swiss ???
Hmmm. Now I feel really disappointed. I have a 2009 Transition Pro. The issue is on the opposite side of the crank. It rubs on the chainstay right where ir curves. If actually formed a circle on my cover that looks to be like a large cog ring. I talked to wheelbuilder and they said there is nothing that can be done. If the issue is the rim, then I would be happy to change rims. That is a very easy and cheap solution, but don't want to just buy rims to try. Here are a couple of pics to show how close things are there.
When my cover was bulging in one spot it was rubbing in that spot. Once I fixed the bulge the rub was eliminated. I also moved the wheel back a few mm via the screws in the dropout.
Not sure when I'll have a few minutes to put the cover on, but next time I do, I'll take photos and video for you.
If you are TRULY open to any suggestions...consider an iPro from iBike.
I've been riding with an iBIke iAero for nearly two years. It works great. They have come a long way in terms of harware and firmware development, and their customer service is truly second to none.
You can go to their website and download (for free) their iBike software, I can then send you ride files...I ride with both an iBike and a PT and you will be able to observe how closely the two match up. In terms of weight and cost, second to none on the market. And best part...you can swap between bikes in about 5 seconds. Any wheelset etc etc etc.
Message me if interested.
NTG
@Jeff - touch base with Al Truscott before you go with an iBike, he probably has the most in Haus experience with the iBike lineup and can probably give you some objective feedback.
@ Cary @ Jeff: I've been riding with an iBIke avg of 3 days per week since Dec 2008. Also personally know the CEO of the company and have consulted in the design of the iDash. I can help with questions you might have as well. Good luck with whatever PM you decide on. Don't care what PM you get, having a PM and using it effectively is a huge leap forward.
I've used an iBike since they first came out, from the Gen I thru the current iAero Gen III. I am currently having a PowerTap built into my 650 size Zipp 404 wheel (special spokes are in transit, build out is scheduled for next week), after trying for a year to train and race EN style using the iBike. Very briefly, the iBike is, as James indicates, a good value for a PM, but I find it unreliable. That is, it is unreliable for use *while riding*. It is quite sensitive to temperature changes and to road jarring. After downloading a ride file into my computer, the iBike software does a great job of correcting for these issues, and I get good after the fact data about how my ride went. But I just can't rely on the numbers I am seeing at any given moment for helping me stay on target during specific training sessions or in a race. I'm not talking about the normal variation around the mean which a PM shows; I talking about seeing numbers like 400-500 for a while, then back down to 180-250. Turning corners, moving from sun to shade, going over bridge expansion joints - all these normal road encounters play havoc with the iBike's sensors and/or power algorithm
I WILL be attempting to use the iBike as the on bike "head unit" for the PowerTap, as they are both Ant+ compatible, and I should be able to get the current PowerTap data on the iBike screen - what James currently does, I presume.