better get to the wiki - lots of good stuff including a section on "before you buy a power meter"....know this, if you have fancy race wheels and no PT you will be kicked in the nuts - I'm just sayin....
Thanks! I am thinking about getting new wheels before the next race season (have the stock wheels for my 2009 B12), but want to think about whether a power meter would be a better use of my $.
I would suggest you look in the Power and Pace forum. There are some threads there were members ask basically the same question.
But basically people in EN train with 4 different types of PMs. You have: Powertap - It is a rear hub based PM that is housed in your rear wheel. Upside is that it is probably the cheapest with the downside is that you will want to race on that same wheel and it isn't the lightest wheel. Quarq - This is a crank based PM which you can switch between your road and tri bikes. Ergomo - I think they may still make these though I am not sure. iBike - This seems to generate some controversy in the Haus. The people who love them seem to be really protective of them. I know Rich doesn't care for them. I do know it takes lots of calibration.
As for pricing, if you are a member Rich can get you a good discount on Powertaps and Quarqs.
Keep on asking questions because I didn't even go into the computers yet.
Oh and a power meter is a much better use of your money. Flash wheels will save you some time for sure, but nothing will trump training and racing with a PM. My n=1 experience is I have been here 1 year. In the OS alone my FTP jumped 16-17%. To equate that to the real world, in the one race I did in both years I picked up almost 3 mph on the 29mi bike leg. That was like 10-12 minutes saved whereas wheels would have saved me like a minute or two. Again just my opinion.
I would say get the PM before getting race wheel's. Mark is right, there are lots of posts out there about it. From my perspective I signed up for a IM CDA this year having never done an triathlon of any distance. I got the Powertap in March and started training. It was amazing to see how my perception of 'hard' changed. There is no fooling yourself with a powermeter. You could think you hammered a work out and then go home and look at the numbers and realize you could/should have gone a little harder (or easier). For me, its easier to lose a few lbs that the powertap may cost me. The information it gives you is so much more valuble. Of course you have to take the time to learn the basics of how to use it. And thats another area where the forums help A LOT.
Depending on your goals, your current ability, and your athletic history - races wheels and a power meter could be both considered a must.
The question is - what first? Fortunately there is a way to get both birds with 1.5 stones.
The answer is a wheel cover - assuming you stock wheels are decent, a wheel cover lets you transform your broke down rear training wheel into a crazy fast disc wheel. Then all you need to do is head over to a tri forum classified section and watch for a good deal on a front race wheel. If you are patient - I'd bet that you could snag a nice front wheel + buy a brand new wheel cover for less than 6 bills.
On to the power meter - this is a bit trickier; for reference I have direct experience with Powertap and SRM. All of the "modern" power meters are wireless and Ant+ compatible - which means you can choose the power meter that works for you and seperately choose the CPU that works for you.
Some considerations: SRM - you replace your existing crankset - and possible bottom bracket with the power meter. Gold standard for power meters, with a long history. Allows you to calibrate the unit, but unless you are good with a soldering Iron, you need to send it in for service ever 1400 hours of use or so for a new battery. Depending on your bike, and the exact SRM model choosen - you may have some incompatibilities. I had an SRM on my bike for 2 years, but had to move on because the one I had would not work on my Speed Concept - and I wasn't willing to pony up for a new one that would fit. I LOVE the SRM computers - simple, reliable, and utilitarian.
Quarq - basically the same as SRM, just different crankset options, but it includes a user replaceable battery. A great choice IMO. No quarq CPU options
Power tap - you have to have your wheel rebuilt - or buy a prebuilt wheel - as it replaces the hub of your rear wheel. If you choose to have a dedicated set of race wheels, and now simply use a disc cover on your training wheel - you need at least two hubs. Race wheel + training wheel. The basic powertap computer is simple, straight forward and the whole system is probably the most user friendly I could imagine for a power meter. However - the current FW of the LYC has some major issues recording time (and potentially distance) accurately. I have a contact at saris and am helping them figure this out. Saris also has an advanced head unit opiton in the Joule - picture iPhone bike computer.
iBike - not a "real" power meter, but a great option as an Ant+ computer.
Ergomo - it's a bottom bracket. It only measures power on your left leg; because it's a bottom bracket it will wear out. Unless you can get one for like 200 bucks - pass.
Garmin - great head unit options (no PM options) - can't tell you to much.
That's basically the title card when it comes to power meters.
After having used an SRM for 2 years, and a powertap for the last 2 months - I can honestly say I wish I would have bought the powertap from the start. I'm glad I got the SRM - because getting the powertaps allowed me to trickle the SRM to my wife - but the powertap is WAY more user friendly and simple. The SRM took a lot more care and feeding to ensure it was accurate - but as long as you took care of it - it was a rock star.
Based on the reading I did, it talked about them both as being great investments - i.e. racing + power meters.
Many people suggest that you can accomplish both by purchasing a great training wheel with a powertap built in at a moderate price and simply add a $99 plastic wheel cover from wheelbuilder.com, which is what I did.
All in, you can get the rear training wheel with wheel cover, powertap, front race wheel (I went with lower priced flashpoint) for not much difference in price than some of the more expensive powermeters.
This was definitely a huge benefit in my first IM this year.
Thanks All!!! Great info Scott! I've seen some info on quarqs, and that seems like it may work best for me, but I need to do lots more research. As far as wheels, I will get something for next season, even if its an used HED 3 and a wheel cover for the back, or a less flashy wheelset such as Planet X or Gray. For some reason, I see both of them (PM and wheels) in my future
I rent race wheels. At $150 per race (only for HIM and IM), if I did 4 a year, it would still take 4+ years to pay the same a buying. My Quarq/Joule were the best money I have spent in triathlon.
Power isn't for everyone. You need to commit yourself to learning how to train and race with it properly, learn what buttons to push on the monitor, any special calibration procedures, use some hard to understand software, get that software to work on your computer, actually download your workouts and pay attention to what's going on...if you can't be bothered to do all of that you are MUCH better off not buying a powermeter at all. T1 is full of $1500 Cateyes in the bikes of people who don't know how to use their powermeter.
If you're still in: I can get you a discount on Powertap and Quarq, probably SRM if I had too. There is NO better space on the planet for learning how to use it, period. Our power-training community here is off the hook. You're going to have to work to get me to sell you an expensive bling option. We recommend a very high bang for your buck solution, always.
But that first point above is very important to consider, first, before any discussion of what PM to actually purchase.
Comments
But basically people in EN train with 4 different types of PMs. You have:
Powertap - It is a rear hub based PM that is housed in your rear wheel. Upside is that it is probably the cheapest with the downside is that you will want to race on that same wheel and it isn't the lightest wheel.
Quarq - This is a crank based PM which you can switch between your road and tri bikes.
Ergomo - I think they may still make these though I am not sure.
iBike - This seems to generate some controversy in the Haus. The people who love them seem to be really protective of them. I know Rich doesn't care for them. I do know it takes lots of calibration.
As for pricing, if you are a member Rich can get you a good discount on Powertaps and Quarqs.
Keep on asking questions because I didn't even go into the computers yet.
Depending on your goals, your current ability, and your athletic history - races wheels and a power meter could be both considered a must.
The question is - what first? Fortunately there is a way to get both birds with 1.5 stones.
The answer is a wheel cover - assuming you stock wheels are decent, a wheel cover lets you transform your broke down rear training wheel into a crazy fast disc wheel. Then all you need to do is head over to a tri forum classified section and watch for a good deal on a front race wheel. If you are patient - I'd bet that you could snag a nice front wheel + buy a brand new wheel cover for less than 6 bills.
On to the power meter - this is a bit trickier; for reference I have direct experience with Powertap and SRM. All of the "modern" power meters are wireless and Ant+ compatible - which means you can choose the power meter that works for you and seperately choose the CPU that works for you.
Some considerations:
SRM - you replace your existing crankset - and possible bottom bracket with the power meter. Gold standard for power meters, with a long history. Allows you to calibrate the unit, but unless you are good with a soldering Iron, you need to send it in for service ever 1400 hours of use or so for a new battery. Depending on your bike, and the exact SRM model choosen - you may have some incompatibilities. I had an SRM on my bike for 2 years, but had to move on because the one I had would not work on my Speed Concept - and I wasn't willing to pony up for a new one that would fit. I LOVE the SRM computers - simple, reliable, and utilitarian.
Quarq - basically the same as SRM, just different crankset options, but it includes a user replaceable battery. A great choice IMO. No quarq CPU options
Power tap - you have to have your wheel rebuilt - or buy a prebuilt wheel - as it replaces the hub of your rear wheel. If you choose to have a dedicated set of race wheels, and now simply use a disc cover on your training wheel - you need at least two hubs. Race wheel + training wheel. The basic powertap computer is simple, straight forward and the whole system is probably the most user friendly I could imagine for a power meter. However - the current FW of the LYC has some major issues recording time (and potentially distance) accurately. I have a contact at saris and am helping them figure this out. Saris also has an advanced head unit opiton in the Joule - picture iPhone bike computer.
iBike - not a "real" power meter, but a great option as an Ant+ computer.
Ergomo - it's a bottom bracket. It only measures power on your left leg; because it's a bottom bracket it will wear out. Unless you can get one for like 200 bucks - pass.
Garmin - great head unit options (no PM options) - can't tell you to much.
That's basically the title card when it comes to power meters.
After having used an SRM for 2 years, and a powertap for the last 2 months - I can honestly say I wish I would have bought the powertap from the start. I'm glad I got the SRM - because getting the powertaps allowed me to trickle the SRM to my wife - but the powertap is WAY more user friendly and simple. The SRM took a lot more care and feeding to ensure it was accurate - but as long as you took care of it - it was a rock star.
Based on the reading I did, it talked about them both as being great investments - i.e. racing + power meters.
Many people suggest that you can accomplish both by purchasing a great training wheel with a powertap built in at a moderate price and simply add a $99 plastic wheel cover from wheelbuilder.com, which is what I did.
All in, you can get the rear training wheel with wheel cover, powertap, front race wheel (I went with lower priced flashpoint) for not much difference in price than some of the more expensive powermeters.
This was definitely a huge benefit in my first IM this year.
Clint
Power isn't for everyone.
You need to commit yourself to learning how to train and race with it properly, learn what buttons to push on the monitor, any special calibration procedures, use some hard to understand software, get that software to work on your computer, actually download your workouts and pay attention to what's going on...if you can't be bothered to do all of that you are MUCH better off not buying a powermeter at all. T1 is full of $1500 Cateyes in the bikes of people who don't know how to use their powermeter.
If you're still in:
I can get you a discount on Powertap and Quarq, probably SRM if I had too.
There is NO better space on the planet for learning how to use it, period. Our power-training community here is off the hook.
You're going to have to work to get me to sell you an expensive bling option. We recommend a very high bang for your buck solution, always.
But that first point above is very important to consider, first, before any discussion of what PM to actually purchase.