To disc or not to disc
I'm not quite sure if this is the right place for this question, but I've decided to buy race wheels and I need some help. I have a quarq on the way so powertap or not isn't applicable. I train on bontrager race lite xxx's and I've decided to get some Zipp race wheels. I'm going with an 808 front wheel and I can't decide if I should get a 1080 rear or a disc. My two main issues are tubular or clincher and the big what if regarding a race not allowing discs due to winds.
I was leaning towards clincher because I've never ridden a tubular, and I'd have to change out the brake pads before each race. My bike is a speed concept 9.9, and the brakes are supposedly a huge pain to work on (don't actually have the bike yet, in the mail). I'm an absolute gear junkie though, so the bike maintenance isn't the primary concern. I know that tubulars are lighter and supposedly have lower rolling resistance, but I'm not sure that it will make a big enough difference to warrant the higher difficulty of changing a flat and the need to change brake pads before each race.
The other main question is do I go with a 1080 or a 900. I know that there are races out there that typically don't allow discs due to wind. I live in Italy and will be racing primarily in Europe for the next couple of years until I move back to the states. I'm racing Austria 70.3, IM Swiss, and probably Augusta 70.3 in 2011.
I'm looking for some help with the decision as it is an expensive purchase and I want to get the most out of the wheels as possible, but I also don't want to show up to a race with my fancy wheels looking all pro only to be told that I have to put the training rear wheel on because it is too windy. Any insight from those with experiences either way would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Comments
Maybe you can buy a 1080 and put a disc cover on it when you want a disc? I don't know if they make them for the 1080. Just brainstorming here....
Yea, I didn't know... but it seems like a good compromise that way you have the best of both worlds. And really, 99.99% as effective as a real disc, you can't go wrong
Another concern to consider is the width of the chain and seat stays relative to clearance with the 1080. My Ridley Dean is very tight and Zipp's own website mentions clearance problems especially for heavier/more powerful riders as the BB will sway under load and you will get contact and ruin both the bike and Wheel. I just bought a Hed Stinger disc and there was only 2-3 mm clearance. Not nearly enough unless I was soft pedaling on the trainer.
My guess is that Trek has made the stays wider as Lieto rides a disc occasionally by Bontrager/Hed.
For 1/2 IM's or longer I like clincer due to smaller/more aero flat fixers and confidence in the fix process. Hard to make a tubie aero all wrapped around the Hydrotail. Shorter races I figure I'm screwed if I flat, which is why I bought the Hed Stinger (tubie) and would just race without a spare.
My plan is to ride Hed 3's front and rear and a disc on the rear if it possible with weather conditions and the race.
Vince
Michael:
I have a 900 tubular disk/1080 tubular rear/ and 808 tubular front, all ZIPP. I also ride with a Quarq.
The for sure no doubt wheel is the 808 front. The latest firecrest carbon clincher would be my choice, since it is as light as you can get for clincher and has all the latest tech for handling, etc.
Tubulars are lighter and the only thing better than an 808 firecrest carbon clincher is an 808 firecrest tubular. However, for IM racing, I always have to carry a spare tire for the 808/1080 set up or 2 spare tires for the 808/900disc set up, since the valve extender does not fit on the disk. so, out goes the weight savings of the tubulars.
This year I race IMAZ and my friend bought firecrest 808s front and rear. I will race with his front wheel and the rear has yet to be decided.
as for the flat repair, it all depends on who glues your tubulars. many shops glue traditionally (i.e. super strong) to avoid the tire coming off. however, this will leave you up the creek in a race, crying like normann stadler. It's rare to find a guy who will glue not so strongly. My guy glued strong, but left me a non-glued section opposite the valve. still he warns, i will have to yank really hard to get it off. I've ridden the disk enough that it is time to change the tire, so i actually am going to try and remove the tire soon to see what it's like. I've never had to change one. i'll report back to you once i do.
so, what i have started doing is using the tubulars with no spares on the bike for time trial racing. if i flat then i am out with no chance to win anyway. when i can financially, i plan to go purely clincher.
hope this helps.
if you eventually decide on tubulars, then let me know and maybe i can sell you mine at a discounted rate.
good luck!
Gilberto
Michael,
Have you looked into Hed wheels? Very similar to Zipp (they share the patent for the toroidal rim shape). Which is faster is a splitting hairs argument. What's not up for argument is the significant price difference.
Prices are US$:
Hed Jet Disc - $1050
Zipp 900 Disc - $1850
Hed Jet 9 front - $750
Zipp 808 front - $1150
That's $1800 vs $3000 for pretty much the same thing (once again splitting hairs). You can buy the Heds and pay for Austria 70.3, IM Swiss, and Augusta 70.3 and have a little bit of pocket change for the same price as you'd pay for the Zipp wheelset.
Just thought I'd give you a different perspective.
Get a disc. If you KQ you can buy or borrow a wheel. If it was too windy for a disc than there would be no way you could handle an 808 on the front and that would be so windy that you would not want to race anyhow...think Dorthy flying by. The handling issue with a disc and or deep wheels usually drastically exaggerated.
I don't know much about disks vs wheels....
But I am making a list of doodes who apparently have no qualms about dropping $$$$ on gear = I'm gonna make you buy RnP the Big Boy Beerz when I see you at the races
Triathlon is one of my wife allotted maximum of two time consuming hobbies so I get excited about the cool guy gear.