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Need for cadence?

Now that I'm getting into usingmy PT more effectively, I am wondering if I should get a cadence kit.

In my pre PT days, I'd use cadence as a way of assessing the consistency of my power output (all else equal) and RPE as my general level of output.  I've got my PT set up to display speed via the hub and am contepmlating getting a cadence sensor as well.  Do most of you use cadence as well or would this be a waste of $50?

Comments

  • I find the hub determined/estimated cadence is 'close enough' for my purposes.
  • I use the cadence that is built in and measured at the hub. I've read the optional sensors that measure at the crank are more accurate, but I find, for myself, the accuracy is close enough. I'm a spinner and I always seem to find my way to 90rpms. Check me on this, but I think with the optional sensors, you can use them even if you don't have the PT wheel on.
  • The hub number is fine. The cadence sensor might be slightly more accurate, maybe not in the ranges that you care about. IIRC the "weakness" in the hub based system is that it does not record accurate cadence numbers below 50 rpms or over 125. Who cares.
  • Thanks guys. I actually didn't even realize there was a hub estimated cadence until you all mentioned it. Sounds like it's close enough for most needs.
  • My hub's cadence readings are way out of whack at about 85-95 RPM's on recovery spins between intervals, jumping up to 50% to 100% higher than actual (I've yet to be weaned off the Cateye, so I still have a crank cadence sensor) and I know I'm not spinning at over 130 RPM's!. Is this normal, or is there some "smoothing" function, etc, so I don't see these whacked out cadences in the WKO+ graphs.
  • I was all set to get the cadence thingy but Rich talked me out of it. The cadence readings off my PT hub seems fine to me. Saved some money.
  • Nope, no need for the cadence sensor, the hub is good enough.

  • I had my garmin cadence sensor on for a while...but the two were within 1-2 every time I compared them, so I took it off my tri bike. Trust Your Coaches...that is what we pay them for...I think image
  • I also use the hub numbers.  My default cadence is between 90-95 anyway, but if I see it going into the 80s I know it's time to change gears before my legs fall apart.  During my warmup I always determine which gear I need to use to hit my target watts at my desired cadence.  For example, I know that to hit my VO2 intervals I usually need to use the 5th smallest cog at 90-92rpm, or I can use the 6th smallest at 94-98.  I have better success at the higher cadences.   

    There is a setting on the 310XT where you can tell it to get cadence from the hub.  On the CycleOps LYC it just pops up automatically I think.  It's the "C" in the bottom row of the display.  

  • One thing that I will say, is when I'm holding tight near the end of a long 95-100% interval, or on the 42 minute bike test sitting there on the static trainer all out, and I have the power level that I want, with the gearing dialed in @ 91RPM on my Garmin, I find it easier and smoother to focus on keeping the RPM there, than trying to chase..or watch...the jumpier power or cadence reading on the PowerTap...seems to get the job done...for me anyway image

  • Posted By Bradley Boomershine on 17 Jan 2011 04:45 PM

    My hub's cadence readings are way out of whack at about 85-95 RPM's on recovery spins between intervals, jumping up to 50% to 100% higher than actual (I've yet to be weaned off the Cateye, so I still have a crank cadence sensor) and I know I'm not spinning at over 130 RPM's!. Is this normal, or is there some "smoothing" function, etc, so I don't see these whacked out cadences in the WKO+ graphs. ?

    Any advice?  I've experimented with the Joule smoothing and still get cadence numbers all over the place!



     

  • I just don't think it matters. I haven't seen cadence on the dial in about 5yrs and it's had zero impact on my cycling fitness, ability for me to tell how I'm riding, etc.

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