Zeroing the LYC and More
I haven't been zeroing my LYC very often. Pretty much just a few times in the past year since I switched from wired to wireless. I have a few questions...
-How often do people re-calibrate?
-Should you only need to do it when it is not 0 when coasting?
-When you recalibrate it while on the trainer, does it matter if there is tension on the rear wheel or not?
-Is it normal for the display to be a bit hard to read in the cold? The basement is about 50 degrees when I ride in the morning, and it seems to take a few minutes to get the display to be at full strength, kind of like our CFLs.
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Comments
When you do recalibrate, there should be no tension on the cranks or hub. I would also suggest letting the wheel spin freely without any tension from the trainer. I was having difficulty with my display as well and thought the computer might be going. I just changed the battery in the LYC and haven't had any problems since then. Try that first and see what happens.
I put the LYC in my bra and it helped.
Thanks for the help!
Still need to change the battery in both my LYC and the hub. The icon in the upper left has been blinking for a while...
FYI- Mike G. just posted in the Jan OS thread about changing the batteries because his upper left icon was blinking----he retested and ended up with a 30 watt jump due to the battery swap.
I zero out my torque every ride, no reason I can think of not to. At the worst, I do it once a week if I forget a few times.
Older models may be different than newer, but at least on my SL+, there is to be no tension whatsoever on the drivetrain. I am off of my bike, pedals not moving, wheel still, then zero.
Ha- I just replaced the battery cause the screen was going in and out. Didn't even consider the cold factor (though it isn't that cold in my apartment my bike is next to the window which can get pretty cold). I'll have to remember that for next time!