Are Vittoria Corsa CX + Latex Tubes Durable Enough for Ironman?
I posted this over on ST a few minutes ago. But I'd like some feedback from the EN crew on this one...
I'm getting into the rolling resistance and ride quality game. I have Zipp 808 clinchers. Historically have ridden GP4000s with Butyl tubes and no flats in 3 IMs (knock on wood). So why change? Well, I guess there's nothing better to do so I bought some Vittoria Corsa CX 23 tires and Vittoria Latex tubes. Deal me in...
Before I run out and mount these tires I want to know if this setup is:
A. The right match for the wheels I have.
B. Durable and reliable enough to ride 112 miles in a race.
Thanks.
0
Comments
If you you want the most aero for your wheels, I would run a bontrager aerowing tt 19mm up front as it matches perfectly with the 19mm wide alloy brack track on the zipp alloy clinchers. Any 20 or 21 is next in line after that as the bontys are very hard to find now, I actually sold the one I had for more then I paid for it.
Corsas are insane hard to get the last 5-6 inches of tire bead over the rim. Lots of sweat involved. I mounted the rear tire last night. Will a 20 on the front make it even harder to get that last bit over the rim? And, will these tires loosen up? I'd hate to be in a race situation and have that kind of work involved.
Thanks. I don't want to overstate this but I had to really work hard with levers on the last 5-6 cm and be extremely gentle to avoid damaging the latex tube. Way harder than any other tire. Today, I heated up the front in the dryer and then mounted it without a tube so I could mount and remount it several times to get it stretched. It's still very stubborn. I'm going to leave it overnight and then remount it again tomorrow with a latex tube inside.
If these don't loosen up and if I get a flat out in the field I am screwed. They're way harder than any trainer tire I've ever put on.
I am currently riding with Vittoria Corsa 20s on my Zipp 404 front wheel. Due to multiple maladies (arthritis, nerve damage), my hands are no longer strong, and I use tire irons ("tire plastics"?) for all tires and wheels these days, so I've learned how to be careful with them, and have not ripped a tube in more than a decade. I just keep sliding the tire iron along the rim under the exposed tire edge, and flip it up and over the rim every centimeter or so. I go very slowly and deliberately, as if I'm doing surgery.
The Vittorias are EASIER for me to get on and off than Conti 4000 and Michelin Pros - which were impossible to get off, requiring me to cut the tire eventually.
Also, I tried these little things which pop into spoke holes to help increase the space inside for the tube, but I kept getting pinch flats from the tbe getting trapped between the button and the rim, so I've gone back to rim tape.
For the trainer tire I have to use a tire lever and have never once been able to do it without, but the vittorias I almost always can get with just my hands even if they are new.
I used to have a much harder time but I think my technique has improved over the years. check out this ttbikefit video for some tips: http://www.youtube.com/user/ttbikefitdotcom#p/u/36/OhiL9qmBxsY
I'm confident in my abilities to change flats, mount and unmount tires, etc. I've done it a lot in my basement and in the field. The Conti trainer tire was by far the hardest until I bought the Vittoria Open Corsa tires. Todd's instructional video provided some good reminders though.
Update on these Vittoria Open Corsa tires with Zipp wheels (specifically Clincher 404, 808, etc).
1. Pedros levers are your best bet. I went to the bike shop and bought three kinds of levers - Pedros, Bontrager and No Name Generic. The Pedros give you the best precision to get under the tire without making contact with the latex tube AND the best leverage to get the bead ON or OFF.
2. I used two Pedros levers to get the tire on and off. I found the spacing to be the key. Getting the tire off I inserted BOTH levers about 3 inches apart under the bead and gently lifted the bead off the rim with BOTH at the same time. This worked very well, didn't comprimise the latex tube and left me with enough bead off to be able to slide one lever towards me and begin removing the rest of the bead.
3. I found PULLING the lever towards me was much easier than pushing it away to remove the rest of the bead.
4. Getting the bead back ON I found that inserting the levers near the middle of the remaining bead was easiest. It still took two levers to get the bead back on.
5. Other tips: A poster on ST said with his Vittoria Open Corsas and Zipp 808s he mounts both tires WITHOUT tubes the first time. He removes them and reinstalls them 3-4 X over and over to loosen them up. Leaves them ON without the tubes overnight and then installs the tubes the next day. This worked okay for me. I found them a little looser, but not a ton. Another tip is even if you aren't using them or riding them yet still pump them up to 120 max pressure every day. This will keep them stretched.
After using the Pedros levers I am now at least less afraid of having to do this in a race.
Rode this setup (Zipp 808s, Vittoria Open Corsa, Latex Tubes) this morning for the first time. Wow, I was pretty blown away by the feel this provides out on the road. 35 miles I would say is a good "break in ride" for this setup. Was running them @ 110 psi front/back. Felt like I could maybe go a little lower and get even a more luxirous ride. Wondering what others are running these at on a Zipp clincher setup?
I just installed a brand new pair of Vittorias on my 404's this weekend - replacing GP4000s'.... I did not find them any harder to install than other tires...
They feel great and fast - even though I initially installed them with butyl tubes...will change to latex closer to my race..
I agree, the feel of the vittoria tires are awesome. I have only rode one set of race tubies and the ride of these clinchers was just as good or better.
I ran up to 116 front and rear on the Zipp alloy clinchers. If it was wet or crappy roads i went closer to 110. Keep in mind I'm 135lbs.
I've skinned my knuckles putting on a new set of Vittoria Corsa CXs. They are much, much easier to put on the second or third time.
Pedros levers are the key. I literally tried all brands. Pedros rock.
@ Rob what David said. Mount those suckers without tubes on the wheel and let it sit overnight. Mount/unmount a few times to stretch it out. Without a tube you can get pretty ugly with the tire and not worry about slashing a tube.
@ George I bought Vittoria latex tubes at my LBS. They have the same ones at Trisports.com. Get out your wallet.
@ Matt - one last question about this setup...I ordered 23s for both Front & Rear. I didn't really think this one through before I ordered. I guess my question is...did I make a big mistake not having a 20 on the Front? If I understand correctly I believe I'm giving up some aero but also getting better rolling resistance. Right? Also, with the pain I've had getting 23s on I'd be pretty worried (even though we're talking tire width) that getting a 20 on would be next to impossible.
Put 35 miles on them on Tuesday. Ride quality was excellent. I can see why everyone is all lathered up about this combination. Having a hard time getting past the "hope I don't flat" thing. I keep telling myself that if I'm going to flat on a Vittoria Open Corsa I likely would have flatted on a GP4000 as well (which is what I used to ride/race). I also don't recall the roads in CDA to be all that bad. Cetainly not as bad as St. George or Wisconsin.
I've been riding on them for the last month in the Chicago area. The roads are not that good at all. No issues.
Do the Vittoria have replaceable cores? The Michelin's do NOT and that was all I saw in stock at PBK...
Jeff- The Vittoria tubes do have removable cores. How is that helpful? Do you replace them? Why?
Yes. Vittoria latex (pink tubes) have removable valve cores.
Gotta be able to remove the valve cores to use the good kind of valve extenders.
"I can tell you that we are recommending to our pro teams as well as pro-triathletes to run 21mm tires with both 808's and 404's, and NOT to run 18 or 19mm tires. We have seen no repeatable aero advantage in using 19 or even 18mm tires with these new rim shapes (though with the new 404, there was a slight tendency for increased drag with the 19mm tire, and feel that the increased ride harshness, reduced contact patch, increased rolling resistance and so on associated with narrower tires just can't really be justified on either of these rims.
Now, if you are running an H3, old Zipp 440, Campy Bora or Reynolds wheel, then we have definitely seen advantages in the wind tunnel to running 18 or 19mm tires over 21 or 22mm tires, and I would strongly recommend them for those applications from a pure speed perspective, but with the newer Zipp rim profiles, I can honestly say use a 21mm at a slightly lower pressure, and save yourself the added harshness of the high tire pressure as well as gaining back some improved handling and still maximizing aero benefits. These latest generation wheels have been fully designed around 21-22mm tires, so you can be confident that you are not sacrificing any performance with them."
I would also recommend reading the article on Vertical Compliance by Jordan Rapp in the Jun/Jul 11 issue of Lava Magazine.