Dailing in bike fit with power meter
Hi,
Just got my Power meter ! Id like to dial in my bike fit ( i have a bad habit of tweaking it). Anyone have any simple tests that could be performed on a trainer? Ive heard of "Constant Speed Test" and the "Constant HR" test. It seems the most logical way would be to run constant watts and see how far I go, but i noticed watts jump 15-20 and im not sure if this would be the best way to get an accurate read.
Rob
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Comments
I'd really caution against dialing in your bike fit based off power. One position might be more powerful than another but there's always a trade off. Usually it's comfort but it could also be aerodynamics. A more powerful postion doesn't necessarily translate to a faster race.
I can get more power with a more aggressive position but it doesn't mean much since I can't ride very long in that position, let alone being able to effectively run after spending xx time in that position. It's a balance of comfort vs power. Maybe you can get away with a real aggressive and powerful position in a sprint but you'd need a chiropractor and a urologist after attempting to ride that position for 56 or 112 miles.
I'd suggest you train with the power meter for awhile. Read some books like the Coggan & Allen book and browse all that EN offers through the Wiki and the Power Webinar. Get a good dialed in professional fitting and then maybe do some slight tweaking somewhere down the road.
Thank you
Bob is 100% right about the trade-offs. I probably went a bit far this year in the direction of sacrificing power for speed, in that my FTP went down more than it should have comparing my sit-up winter power to my TT bike power...but my speed was at least as good as last year overall and I was definitely faster per watt. But I'm working now on a solution to moderate the drop off, hopefully minimizing any negative effects.
An alternative is to buy an IBike aero head unit to go along with a wireless PowerTap or other PM. With that combo, you would have real-time CdA measurements, so you would see the impact of changes right away. More expensive than a Joule, less expensive than a wind tunnel...
Pretty much spot on.
All good points. You fit for increased speed at a given acceptable comfort level. That comfort level is a function of race distance, ie, what level of comfort do you need/want/prefer for a bike ride of x length. Power just shakes itself out.
That is, I can have a very non-aero fit and be very comfortable and powerful...but slower than a more aero, but still comfortable-enough fit at a lesser power. There's also a tendency to chase a higher power number during a fitting session, especially if you are paying for said session