Powertap Install - wired
hey all
I’m a new member and I haven't been able to cull what I need by searching the forums.
I have a wired Powertap. I’d like to install it this week and am seeking advice. the advice in the Cyclops manual that came with it is useless. The one picture isn't even of the model I have. I downloaded a very nice .pdf manual from the Cyclops site, but the picture on the cover contradicts the (very limited) text in the document.
this is what I want to know: how do I orient the shark fin?
My intention is to have it on the chain stay, oriented like a shark’s fin. This will put the Cyclops logo facing out and the “cylinder” facing in towards the hub.
Is this how it should be? Does anyone have pics of their set up?
Here are the instructions I got from ST. they make sense to me:
vjohn
Apr 7, 08 15:54
Post #2 of 16 (378 views)
Re: Anyone have a good "method" for installing the PowerTap Wiring Harness? [jackbauer] [In reply to]
Quote | Reply
1) Ziptie sharkfin to top of chainstay up as close to the hub as it'll go.
2) Run wire inside chainstay to bottom of stay, ziptie* it there with a tiny bit of slack in case you have to tweak the adjustment of the sharkfin.
3) Run wire taught along bottom of chainstay, use a clear Saris-supplied strip to hold it there just beind the BB. Tape** over wire with frame-color-matching plastic tape once it's taught.
4) Run wire under BB, to bottom of downtube. Use tape to secure it on downtube, just in front of BB. Make sure routing under BB is such that shift cables won't sever the wire.
5) Run wire up downtube, secure by shoft cable stops with tape. Tape over wire on downtube with frame-color-matching plastic tape once it's taught.
6) Ziptie wire to shifter cable housing on either side, I typically use left.
7) Wrap wire tightly around housing on up to where you're near the bars (or wherever you're mounting the CPU) such that it's evenly wrapped and you've got just a little exra at the top to affix the cradle. Ziptie wire at top part of that wrap job, to housing (now the wrapped wire will stay put).
8) Ziptie cradle mount to bars or stem as desired.
* Anytime you ziptie the wire, make sure the wire is running right nder the ziptie "clasp" so there's a bit of space for it, and snug it down but not as tight as you possibly can. I've never had this happen in 7 years of using power taps, but I've heard of people tightening these to the point they break the wire.
** Clean frame surface with alcohol before taping, takes 30 seconds but install job lasts that much longer
Comments
New member here as well. Looking forward to training with EN this year!
Over the Thanksgiving holiday I installed a wired Powertap (Comp) on my bike with the shark fin. The directions I received were actually for a wired Powertap SL (must be from a couple years ago because I believe this model is wireless now). Anyways, my directions told me to mount the shark fin on the seat stay. However, when I started the install I felt the chain stay was a much better location. I pushed it as far back on the chain stay as I could without the top of the shark fin hitting the seat stay. The installation is exactly how you mention with the cycleops logo facing out and the "cylinder" facing the hub. I've been using it for about 10 days now and haven't had any issues.
I'm not exactly sure how to do pictures with this website otherwise I would attach a picture of my setup. If you have any questions let me know.
thank you Doug and Dave
this is perfect. i want to install it with some permanence and i dreaded getting it wrong.
cheers
oy, i have such buyer's remorse
i hooked up the wiring Monday night. it was easy. the above instructions were very good and it was simple to install. i used blue painter's tape to hold everything in place and I will replace that with something more durable once i know it works.
when I was done with the wiring, i popped in the computer, spun the wheel, and BANG, got a signal.
HOORAY!!!
then i stepped away for a few minutes, came back, installed the cadence sensor (not listed in the ST directions)
and i haven't had a signal since. UGH.
so now i have to de-bug it with no real tools. the manual and one store i contacted suggested that i switch out the hub batteries. it’s a total shot in the dark, especially since this is a brand new hub, but WTH, there aren't any other options.
my other nagging concern is that i put the cadence sensor on second. after the hub sensor was fully wired. this means that since i wasn't focusing on it, i put the zip tie for the cadence sensor over the wire for the hub sensor. (the cadence sensor is on the chain stay, about 5 inches closer to the BB). now i'm worried that the zip tie may have severed the hub wire. i can see it’s flattened in two spots. if that's the problem, then that means i'm out at least $70 to replace that. if that even is the issue . . .
anyone wanna recommend a good shop in DE or SE PA that knows PT hubs?
Wired PTs are great. Don't feel any buyers remorse because once you get that thing installed and working you'll have a bombproof setup at a really, really reasonable price. I had a wired PT for years and then "just because" I upgraded to a wireless SL and kinda wished I hadn't spent the extra cash to get it and just stayed with wired.
update because i want to scream validation
yesterday i drove up to Wayne PA to take one more crack at the PT catastrophe. its the third shop i've tried and a smidge over an hour from my home but these guys are pretty into the power scene and sounded like they could help me out.
hysterically, the LYC worked perfectly the first time the shop manager spun the wheel. i don't know what happened for the next 10 seconds 'cause i was vomiting, but then it quit working (as its been doing for me).
so we spent the next hour, hour-and-a-half, fooling with it and trying to debug it. more new batteries, a new battery carriage for the hub, a scrub and polish of the headset contacts, etc. in the end, we got it to work consistently when the cable was slack. but if the LYC was placed any further up the frame than my bottle cage, then it would diminish and eventually lose the signal. NUTS. putting it on the holder on the stem was instant death. so strange, its like the computer forget its a wired set up.
anyway, the guys in the shop were great; best six pack of Twin Lakes Pale i ever spent. the wheel sitting in the shop and the Saris rep will take a look next week. whew.
big shout out for the High Road shop if you're anywhere near Wayne, PA. great guys.
Sorry to hear you're still having problems with your PT. I've had mine (wired) for almost 2 months now with no issues whatsoever. Hopefully once the problem is resolved you'll have the same experience as me.
last update (i believe)
well, i got the wired PT with the new wire home. its on my bike and its been a-ok for a couple of weeks now.
hooray