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Basic question regarding the trainer & the wheel

morpheusmorpheus
in General Training Discussions

My rear wheel that I use for training year round, Easton EA90 aero, has a wobble.  More like, it gives if I wiggle it from left to right, very slight, tho.  Very slight.  Still spins true, very true.

It has to be what's causing the 'creak' that I occasionally hear when weight shifts from left to right, like standing when climbing.  No structural damage, everything else on the bike is silent and tight.  The only suspect is this slight give in the rear wheel.

Took it to the shop.  He didn't find anything wrong with the bike, either.  Agreed that the wheel might be causing the creak.  Since it spins true, he thinks replacing the bearings will cure it.

I ride this bike alot.  Picked it up, with these wheels back in Feb of 2010. 

Did the wheel (hub) just reach it's end or did I mess it up by cranking roller so tight to it on the indoor trainer (KK Road)?  I do crank the s#&% out of it when I hit the pain cave.  Hard enough that the wheel comes to a dead stop within a tenth of a spin if I quit pedaling.

What do you think?

Comments

  • robin sarnerrobin sarner

     All wheels have some side to side give.  I assume bike shop tried simple hub/bearing adjustment.

    Creaks on trainer prbably most from skewer/trainer interface.   This does not hurt anything but you can tighten this.   On computrainer, can tighten too much bending trainder frame.

  • morpheusmorpheus
    I see. i'm sure that my skewer to trainer isn't too loose. if anything, it might be too snug.

    so...
    can tightening the trainer super tight on the skewers screw the wheel up?

    and

    can tightening the roller to the wheel super tight screw the wheel up?
  • morpheusmorpheus
    I see. i'm sure that my skewer to trainer isn't too loose. if anything, it might be too snug.

    so...
    can tightening the trainer super tight on the skewers screw the wheel up?

    and

    can tightening the roller to the wheel super tight screw the wheel up?
  • Nate ParadyNate Parady
    Chris, I don't think you need to crank the sh!t out of the roller on your KK trainer. Just enough so the back tire doesn't squeek too much when you apply pressure to the tire as it spins. If you go from zero to 90 rpms there might be some squeeking but other than that you just need a few good turns to get what you need. IMO...
  • Nate ParadyNate Parady
    one more thought...think of it as needing to apply pressure to the tire and not the wheel. The tire has some give, the wheel does not. If you have to much pressure on your wheel it has to go somewhere. That could impact your frame or actual wheel.
  • morpheusmorpheus
    hearing what you're saying. i'll back off and see what happens.
  • LynneJLynneJ
    The whole point of the KK with the flywheel is that there should be some spin down and that it should not just stop when you stop pedaling. The tire should have a little deformation but not the wheel. As the tire-roller interface warms up it naturally 'tightens' too so there should almost be some slip when you start the workout. I've used my same KK road machine since Jan 2006 and I've trashed some tires as is to be expected from trainer use but never a wheel.

    Lynne
  • morpheusmorpheus
    thx lynette. I'm starting to see the obvious here...I've been overtightening the thing.

    I have a tweet out to KK to get some tips on this. I'll let you guys know if they reply.
  • mgraffeomgraffeo
    KK has a setup video they send, which includes Spinervals 23 (Time Saver). At the beginning, they recommend free-spinning the back wheel, and tightening just until the resistance unit touches the wheel (the wheel will stop spinning). Then, turn the knob 2 full turns from there, and you're good to go. This method has never failed me.
  • jmoss70jmoss70
    What make/model of wheel? What make/model of hub?
  • morpheusmorpheus
    Wow. I've been lucky I have broken anything then. I make the roller contact the wheel. Then, practically, crank it until the wheel won't spin at all by hand. Not kidding.

    I don't think I ever got a setup video. Don't really need one now that you guys have straightened me out.
  • morpheusmorpheus
    Jim, EA90 aero's. Stock wheels when I bought the S2. I'll have to check on the hubs.
  • jmoss70jmoss70

    I ask because some hubs have a "pre-load" that needs to be set to keep them from creaking and having that side to side play.  I get that with my Chris King front hub.  I have to pull out the little tool and tighten it every so often.  Also, I've had MAJOR play in my PowerTap rear hub when the hub nuts are loose.  

  • morpheusmorpheus
    Woah, Jim, I think we have a winner! That sounds like what I've been troubleshooting. What is the 'little tool' you're referencing? Got any DIY links to walk me thru that?
  • jmoss70jmoss70

    My overall advice would be to check the manual, web-site or cal Easton. 

    For my Chris King front hub I just use a 5mm hex bit on each side and tighten it to a leve that I know from feel is "just right".  Then clamping it in fork with the QR does the trick.  Shuts that thing up.

    For my PT rear wheel I use a hex wrench on one side and a cone wrench to tighten the axle nuts and keep them snug.  Again, by feel to the point where I know it's good to go.  

    Sorry for the lack of specificity here.

  • morpheusmorpheus
    think my lbs already did this when I took it in. still spins true. had only one bike wko on wednesday, on trainer, did sound better. tomorrow morning's 3 hr ride will be a good test.

    and no need to apogize for trying to help.
  • morpheusmorpheus
    NOT the hub. S2 top tube hairline fracture. I just noticed it today. Never looked at the top tube cuz I didn't consider it a Hi Stress area. 6'' hairline crack right down the middle ridge, where the top tube starts slightly sloping down to each side.

    warranty steps underway. all3sports knows the drill. General consensus is that she's safe to ride my local beat. It won't be long before I have to turn her in for good. And the new frame will be waiting to be built up when I show up at the shop the cracked one. In the meantime, I went ahead and picked up the stuff I need to get my tribike dusted off, new cables, housing,tape, stuff like that. Was time to do that anyways.

    remind me of this later when I want to look in the used bike section when I upgrade my tri bike.
  • mgraffeomgraffeo
    Wow, glad you caught it now, and not at a less opportune time! Definitely time to get on that tri bike!
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