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seat tube angle,TRI bike, climbing

 Is there a "sweet spot" for a seat tube angle on a tri bike that will enable the climbing efficiency of a road bike without sacrificing the aerodynamic efficiency and run benefit advantage of a tri bike? Is it 75- 77 degrees or does  anything less than 80 eliminating most of the advantage of a tri back? Does taking advantage of the additional length of a FIZIK saddle allow one to slide back for climbing lessoning the angle if 80 is used?  I've gone with the lesser angle at Lake Placid and Madison but I don't know if was the right move. What would folks use in Quebec? Is there any consensus on the best climbing technique on a TRI bike for a hilly IM.

This is my first post to the group as a new member. It'd be great to take advantage of all the knowledge and experience of the team. Thank-you.

Comments

  • Short answer: nope.

    Longer answer: a good fit is a function of your goals. In all but the steepest tris, you should be locked in the bars most of the time, so optimizing your saddle for being in the bars is the right thing to do. When you're going 7-8mph, you're on the hoods, and it's less than optimal seat tube angle, but it's such a short part of the race, that it's worthwhile. That said, some fitters are better than others at getting a good position where you can feel comfortable both ways.

    Best climbing technique is to bring as many FTP watts to the table, and as few kg's as possible.
  • I'd say of you are going to ride a tri bike, get a fit for that position. When you climb, you'll naturally move to the rear of the saddle for an efficient climbing position. Do you run out of saddle, do you wish you could sit back farther? The Fizik may help. I had a Fizik for a while and now ride an Adamo and find I can get a great tri position and good climbing position too.  I haven't actually measured it, but I think my KOP position is pretty close between my road and tri bikes when I'm in a climbing position.  You may be a little further forward on he tri bike, I dont think you'll lose that much.

  • What Mike said.

    Also, do you ride with power? When you have power on the bike you'll see and learn all sorts of interactions between hip angle, position fore/aft on the saddle, cadence, and power while climbing. Things are often not what they "feel" to be. I climb just as well (by this, I mean watts are usually just as high) on my tri bike as road bike and, as Mike said, I'm in the hoods when I'm slower than about 12-13mph.

    It's just not as comfortable because I don't have the variety of hand positions that I do on the road bike, standing feels strange, etc. but by moving around on the bike and watching the watts, I can definitely find a sweet spot where the watts are just as good as on my road bike.

  •  I've got a Joule now but haven't paid much attention to how climbing position changes watts. Lots more to learn for me. Thanks for the help!

  • Yeah, just move around on the saddle, play with cadence and position while watching watts and RPE. You'll learn a lot, usually that what feels strongest isn't always in fact, strongest, from a watts produced perspective.
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