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Wheel Cover - 1st time

imc1792imc1792
in General Training Discussions

So, got my spanking new WB wheel cover, it is sitting there looking at me...... have a 1/2IM this weekend and looking for any 'if u do one thing, do this' or don't do that tips for 1st timer putting the beast on and racing with it.

Comments

  • Tom GlynnTom Glynn
    Just put it on and go for a spin! It's pretty easy to install. Not sure if you have directions, but the hardest part is getting the rear cassette off. If you can do that, everything else is easy. If you can't, do what I did several years ago. Just bring your rear wheel down the the LBS and tell them you want to learn to take the cassette off and purchase the correct tool from them (<$20). They gave me a free lesson and let me practice and now I'm an expert! <br />
    Just make sure that the valve extender hole is lined up properly when you put the cover on.

    If you need more instructions, just respond back!
  • William JenksWilliam Jenks
    Do make sure you get the right side on the right side. :-)

    One other hint - and I don't know if this has to do with having used mine a lot or it's always true:

    There's a place where you have to align the back of the wheel cover with the valve stem. I've found that if I don't do this it rubs a little when in the lowest gears, which is something you want to avoid. I assume this means mine is just ever so slightly asymmetric, but couldn't tell you if that's an artifact of overuse or the fact that the holes are just slightly asymmetrically "drilled" to begin with.
  • matthewbwardmatthewbward
    Make sure you tape it to the spokes! If you don't (in my experience, at least), it will rotate as you race and you won't be able to find the valve should you need it.
  • John WithrowJohn Withrow
    Mine has a sticker on the inside of the cover that doesn't have the valve cutout. This sticker gets lined up with the valve stem.

    Also, I use 2 pennies to tighten the little plastic grommets/screws that hold the 2 sides together. These should be tightened snugly, but be careful not to strip the threads, they are kind of weak threads. I keep 2 pennies and an extra plastic screw or 2 in my bento box, just in case during the race (but have thankfully never needed those yet)...
  • John WithrowJohn Withrow
    And another thing... I have a bunch of old shop rags. When I take my cassette off to put my disc cover on, I use it as an opportunity to wipe all the gunk off of each gear of the cassette. Goes back on sparkling clean...
  • Joseph LombardiJoseph Lombardi

     I just recieved mine with powertap set up last month...a few days before a sprint.....um...I put a new tube & tire on...and the tube had the long valve stem....what I learned is that with the long valve stem my tire pump head doesn't fit into the cutout to be able to put air in the tire...I had to use my little co2 inflator...so...learning is that with the wheel cover don't get/use long valve stem tube...or at least make sure your  pump head will fit in the cutout in order to pump up the tire. 

  • Joe MatchetteJoe Matchette
    @Joe - did you get the "crack pipe"? That makes it possible to use your pump, however an assistant is highly desired as you have to hold the 'pipe' on the valve manually (your pump locks on to the crack pipe).
  • mgraffeomgraffeo
    Make sure you take the washer off with the cassette, then put on the disc cover, then the washer, then the cassette. Won't fit right otherwise!
  • Joseph LombardiJoseph Lombardi

     Hi Joe...yeah...the crack pipe...got it now...LOL.

  • robin sarnerrobin sarner

    Actually nickels are the recommended tool to loosen the plastic bolts.

    To assemble the plastic bolts, just snap them together and press until you get the desired tightness.      No need to use nickels or screwdriver to assemble.     

  • Dave TalloDave Tallo
    ... and if there's one thing you DON'T want to do, it's use loctite on the plastic bolts.
  • imc1792imc1792

    Super feedback team....... thanks........ here is where I/it stands from someone who typically uses LBS for everything:

    I bought chain whip and cassette removal tool at noon and successfully removed cassette al'a uTube assistance.

    Watched the wheelbuilder installation video and re-read all the posts then addressed the wheel cover. Used the smallest snap screws they shipped. Done.

    Put cassette back on, remounted the wheel and gave it a spin. Oops, the garmin cadence and speed sensor arm hitting the wheel cover. Some adjustments, better now. Then geared down to the 27 to ensure chain was clearing wheel cover. Good.

    Concerns:

    1- there is a small warp on the non-drive side (what was hitting the sensor above) and it looks pretty much like the hole does not align perfectly with PT hub so I am guessing a little file job and that should be OK.

    2- even using the smallest snap screws I am concerned that the wheel cover is too loose. For example, if I pinch the two sides together at a snap screw point there is easily 1/8"-1/4" gap. Can anyone comment on how tight their wheel cover is? Wonder whether I need smaller snap screws.

    3- ah, the crack pipe requirement. Thought I was good to go, small valve, my floor pump is crack pipe shape but the presta valve hole is on the inside and no fit. Then I checked my Co2 dispenser and it has a open/close valve which will not work either..... So need to buy new stuff or carry my little hand pump at least for Sun 70.3.

    Thanks very much. I am so proud of my accomplishment, I typically would never of attempted this.

  • William JenksWilliam Jenks
    On point 1, make sure you still see the warp when it's aligned with the valve stem properly.

    On point 2, don't worry about it being loose. It's fine. :-) If you are worried about the screws themselves, you can put a strip of electrical tape over each of them.

    On point 3, if you lose or misplace your crack pipe or it's just not handy, simply undo the screws in the holes adjacent to the cutout for the valve. you can safely bend/pull the plastic part away and get your pump head in there. Done it a million times (e.g., if the valve stem I got was too long). You may have to take out two screws on either side of the cutout if your pump head is big. But either way, it's no big deal.

    I don't tape mine to the spokes and (especially if you don't cover the cutout, which I never bother to do in RR or other training rides), it WILL rotate slightly away from the proper spot. However, I've never had any problem just rotating it back to where it's supposed to be just by gently pulling on it at the cutout.

    the stickers they give you are (in my opinion) just a bit too small. And of course there are a limited number of them. I gave up on them ages ago and just use electrical tape. Cut it with scissors rather than pulling it to break it like usual so that it remains flat and just use a series of strips perpendicular to the radius to cover the hole. 2-3 minute operation on race day after you top up the tire.
  • John WithrowJohn Withrow
    And if you happen to get a flat during the race (lets hope you don't) you might be able to just push the cover in near the valve cutout and jam your CO2 cartridge onto it. or take your pennies (I know they say to use nickels, but I use pennies) out of your bento box and loosen the 2 screws near the valve hole if absolutely necessary.

    I find my floor pump nearly impossible to use with my disc cover on when I'm by myself. But if I snake the thing up in there and hold it in place while someone else pumps, then it actually works fine.
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