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Battery change for powertap

How do you do it?  And what type of battery to buy?  I am not very bike savvy-but is this something I can handle on my own or do I need to take it to a LBS? 

Thanks guys image

Comments

  • You can totally do this. If you didn't get the tool with your PowerTap -- looks like a set of black plastic 'brass knuckles' -- just call and they should send you out one no charge. At least that's what happened to me when I called. You take the wheel of the bike, put your hand in the tool, place it on the non-drive side of your PowerTap, and unscrew the top. Replace the batteries, and then screw the thing back together. Five minutes, tops.

    If you can inflate your own tires, you can do this.

    Batteries for my PRO+ are standard watch CR2032s. I can't speak to the other models, but I would assume they are the same.

    I bought these last time and they have been working just fine. http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1340157302&sr=8-4&keywords=cr2032
  • I recommend you take it to your LBS the first time - ask if you can watch as they change the batteries. If you are visual person, and need to do things vs, just watching, ask if you can watch the first time - then take the batteries out and ask if you can do it while they keep an eye on you. A good shop will provide this service - it helps if you have a six-pack of beer in hand (really!)
  • Thanks for your quick response! So I took the top off...see the batteries...I have the SL + so Im assuming its similar to yours? They are housed in a black plastic thing---does that come out to take the batteries out? The last thing I want to do is break something so I want to take precaution and ask these silly questions...
  • Yes. You take it out, replace the batteries, then slide it back it.

    You can look at the Manual here (this is for the PRO, but it should be the same for yours): http://www.cycleops.com/pdfManuals/PT_Pro/20374D_PowerTap Pro User Guide_ESF.pdf

    However, if you are at all apprehensive, x2 on Woody's comment. Assuming, of course, they sell/work on PowerTaps. They might have less experience than you at this point. You got the cap off, and are looking at the batteries. image
  • Oh you guys are amazing-Thank you so much! I'm assuming this is my problem, because last week (my joule was fully charged) I was in the middle of the ride and I just lost the connection between my joule and PowerTap-for the remainder of that ride. Funny-it worked for a shorter ride the next day, but then the following day it worked for about .25 miles and then stopped working again. You think this was the problem? I have not changed my PowerTap batteries since I got the thing back in November...
  • Posted By Peter Greagg on 19 Jun 2012 09:12 PM

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA1i_3bJGqc



    A classic tutorial by one of our alumni, Greg Van. Seems to be needed once per year. 

  • I think everyone who responded to this question should get a six pack

  • Awesome- great question Lauren, I'll be taking mine apart this evening, would have been doing the same thing . Hoping the batteries are in town or I'll have to wait for snail mail...

  • @ Lauren I will be interested to see if the battery change fixes your problem. I have been having the same issue with my PT. but I use my Garmin 310 as the head unit. I don't think that I need new batteries as I replaced them less than a year ago. I have had issues with "interference" in the past and assumed that was it again.
  • Great thread on battery change... I did make me laugh a little when the notion of "how triathletes does it take to....." popped into my head. image
  • Posted By Dino Sarti on 20 Jun 2012 06:15 PM

    Great thread on battery change... I did make me laugh a little when the notion of "how triathletes does it take to....." popped into my head.

    How many triathletes does it take to change a PT battery/inner tube/brake cable/handlebar tape/etc?

    None. You take it to your LBS, pay them $$$ to do it, and pick up another carbon-fiber aero widget that you "need" on your way out. 

  • Did this on my own, by watching a you tube vid.
  • Just changed my hub battery that has been reading "low battery" for weeks now. It would be my luck it would die during the FTP test. My hands are quite greasy but it's done. Go me! image
  • While we're at it, we should remind each other that the useful life of the batteries is a few hundred hours.

    If you read a lot of IM race reports, it's not THAT uncommon for the battery to die in the middle of the race. (Actually, it doesn't just die catastrophically, but it becomes unreliable first, usually...but if you lose it during your race....)

    I think it's worth changing the batteries twice a year without waiting for them to die. Change them once in the weeks before your A race and the other time some times 5-7 months earlier/later (like the beginning of OutSeason or whatever).
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