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Swapping chainrings on a quarq

Until I read the thread "New Dura Ace Gearing" I really had not considered the possibility of swapping chainrings on my Quarq. I currently have a compact 50/34 but there are certainly times I could use the benefit of more on the high end and having a 52t.

A couple of questions about this:

1. Can you use any combination of chainrings as long as they are 110mm (i.e. swap the 50 for a 52 without a 52/36 that was discussed in the other thread)?

2. Is it a "big deal" to swap chainrings. In other words, is this somethign you can "swap back and forth as you please", or is it more of a "I want to change my crank configuration and am should not expect to change it back anytime soon". For example, changing a cassette is easy and quick. But do chainrings require a lot of other considerations other than removing the crank, removing the bolts then re-torquing them?

3. Most importantly, when you remove the chainring bolts and re-torque them, does it mess with the Quarq calibration and require a new FTP test? In the other thread a re-calibration procedure using known weights is mentioned. This seems complicated and maybe puts this into the "big deal" category....

As you can tell, the other thread got me thinking. Many thanks for the wisdom of the gear-heads in the group........

Cheers,

Matt

Comments

  • Swaping chain rings is easy and most times can be done with the crank on the bike. I'm not sure if/how it affects calibration. You will have to relocate the front derailleur though each time you change the big ring.
  • Read this: http://quarq.com/ring-difference

    Basically if you are using combos in that tool and have the qalvin app you can do it yourself. If you are using a different setup you probably should send it in.

    I sent mine in the first time as the qalvin app was not available yet and they swapped them and had it back to me in about 3 days.

    I have a ant+ iphone adapter and the app if you need to borrow it to change to offset.

    At your w/kg you will be totally fine with 52/36 especially since you don't race IM.
  • Matt, just to be sure I'm reading you correctly, it seems as if you want to swap out the large ring only (50->52) and leave the small ring at 34. This will most likely _not_ work with a small cage derailleur you can't have more than 16 teeth difference between chanring sizes when using a small cage derailleur, so you'd need to swap the 34 for a at least a 36 as well. If I read you wrong, then sorry, please ignore this.

    Summary:
    50/34 ok
    52/34 - not ok
    52/36 - ok
  • Posted By Cary Blanco on 17 Sep 2012 10:39 PM

    Matt, just to be sure I'm reading you correctly, it seems as if you want to swap out the large ring only (50->52) and leave the small ring at 34. This will most likely _not_ work with a small cage derailleur you can't have more than 16 teeth difference between chanring sizes when using a small cage derailleur, so you'd need to swap the 34 for a at least a 36 as well. If I read you wrong, then sorry, please ignore this.



    Summary:

    50/34 ok

    52/34 - not ok

    52/36 - ok



    As long as the chain length is appropriate and one doesn't mind adjusting the derailleurs then it's not that big of an issue having more than an 16 tooth spread.  I have been running an 18 tooth spread for the last year and it's been fine (54/36).

  • Posted By Bob McCallum on 18 Sep 2012 06:56 AM
    Posted By Cary Blanco on 17 Sep 2012 10:39 PM

    Matt, just to be sure I'm reading you correctly, it seems as if you want to swap out the large ring only (50->52) and leave the small ring at 34. This will most likely _not_ work with a small cage derailleur you can't have more than 16 teeth difference between chanring sizes when using a small cage derailleur, so you'd need to swap the 34 for a at least a 36 as well. If I read you wrong, then sorry, please ignore this.



    Summary:

    50/34 ok

    52/34 - not ok

    52/36 - ok



    As long as the chain length is appropriate and one doesn't mind adjusting the derailleurs then it's not that big of an issue having more than an 16 tooth spread.  I have been running an 18 tooth spread for the last year and it's been fine (54/36).



    i stand corrected.

  • @ Matt Aaronson - ref #3 - as you've read changing chain rings is not a big deal - and likewise calibrating quarq using weights is not a big deal - basically the quarq is measuring the amount of force you apply on the crank arm (and then transfer to the spider) it then converts that force into torq and then combines rpm & torq to output power data - if you change the diameter of the chain ring (50 to 52) the transducer built into the crank spider will see a different a different force - the quarq needs to adjust internal calculations so the power output is true - so if it were me i would take a saturday morning and get both sets of chain rings, a known weight (maybe 20#) and the setup Matt Ancona mentions - put the 50 ring on and hang the weight from the crank and read the calibration factor - then disassemble and repeat with the 52 and note the data - then i would repeat the 50 ring procedure to insure the data repeats - assuming they both repeat then you have data you can save for reference - then each time you change rings you update the calibration factor in the quarq without having to go thru the weight calibration procedure - if you have any questions pm me and we can work thru it
  • I missed that detail about just changing the big ring only.

    Bob is correct, it should work with the proper length chain, just keep in mind for both Shimano and Sram short cage deraillieurs they say the biggest gap should be 16 teeth. It can be done, but typically shift quality goes down and/or you run into issues where you can't quite get the chain lenght right. In otherwords to have enough change for a 52-28, you may have too much when in the 50-11.... but you really shouldn't be riding either of those extreme cross chained combos anyway.

    In other words... 52/34 will work but is not ideal. 52/36 on the other hand works great and is just as easy to setup as 50/34.

    As Jeff said, once you know the right calibration values for both you can switch them easily. The link I provided as a table of those values and if you stick with combos on that chart you may be able to get by without manually re calibrating.
  •  Related: Interbike is this week and I've asked Sawiris to look into if/how Quarq will work with the new Shimano 11spd stuff. I've already gotten a couple emails from members looking to upgrade to DA11. 

  • I have a question on the calibration of the Quarq. Why is it necessary to recalibrate if you change to a bigger chainring? If you are using a Compact, does the Quarq know if you are in the 50 or the 34 and use a different calibration factor to calculate Power in the big chainring versus the small chainring? If so, then won't there need to be 2 different calibration factors that you put in when you do the calibration test with known weights and your iPhone App (one for the 50 and one for the 34, vs say 52/36 or a 53/39 or Bob's 54/36)? Said a different way, if you wanted to change from say a 50/34 to a 50/36 (know idea why you would want to do this, but it's just an example), would you then need to recalibrate with known weights just because you changed the small chainring?

    While I'm on the topic of Physics questions... How does this work then for the Quarq CinQo Saturn Rotor 3D (with Oval Chainrings) wouldn't this "Calibration Factor" need to dynamically change throughout the pedal stroke?
  • I have to apologize.  I use a 54/39 and not a 54/36.  I'm not sure what was in my head when I typed my reply or why I thought I had a 36t little ring.

    Nevertheless... appropriate chain length and FD/RD adjustments will allow for a greater than 16 tooth difference.  I'll stand by that comment.

  • @ Matt & John - here's a link to a 12 min video on the quarq site where they describe how to calibrate - http://www.quarq.com/qalvin 

    @ John - yes the quarq does know what ring you're in - they have many strain gages built into the spider and thru their activation and internal calc's the quarq knows what ring is in use - so yes you do need to calibrate big & small rings - if you 2 sets of rings (50/34 & 52/36) you would calibrate all 4 then record the data for future reference- then when you change rings you input the appropriate data without recalibrating - i had left that detail out for talking purposes - your 2nd question about oval rings - i don't know the exact answer - but i bet they would require a different calibration procedure to get the timing of the "ovality" dialed into complete revolution -

    for those reading this w/o power - if you have a rotor crank w/o power you can purchase a tool thru quarq that will allow you to remove the original spider and replace it with a new quarq spider that has the power meter built in - pretty cool stuff

    There's another thread running in the gear forum - New DA Gearing by Terry - where similar stuff is discussed

    Here's a photo of my son's bike with - DI2 + rotor crank + DA rings mounted on a full dress Cervelo P5 w/Zipp 808's - he changes rings based on race/course configurations

    @ Rich - yea he has all the cool toys - but he bought/paid for them - he's a pretty good cyclist @ 4.6 w/kg and a memebr of the USMC tri team 

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