Wheel cover rubbing rear derailluer
So, I opted to go the most bang for the buck route ( not having my race wheels retrofit with a PT hub) and just purchase of disc cover. Installed the cover with easily, but now, in my granny gear, the rear derailluer is rubbing the cover. Hands down I need that gear for IMWI.
Anyone had that issue with the cover? Solutions?
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gina did you have shimano 10 speed? If so, there is a small washer (spacer) that needs to go on the outside of the wheel cover to prevent rubbing. Its very thin, take the cover off and move the washer/spacer outside of the cover. Its so thin you may not have even seen it.
What kind of bike do you have? I know Wheelbuilders will not work with Specialized Transitions and Powertaps. I hope that is not the case with your bike.
Is it rubbing all the time or just in certain gears?
@ Jeff- My bike is a Guru Crono. The rubbing is only in my granny gear which I will need for IMWI
@ Hayes- Nope, didn't try that. On my way now to try!! Thanks !!
Gina- I recall Kathy had some trouble like that at first too. I'm not sure exactly what resolved the issue- but she called Wheelbuilder and they gave her some suggestions. See this thread for more:
http://endurancenation.us.dnnmax.co...fault.aspx
@ Hayes- The spacer is already where it should be, bu thanks for the suggestion.
@ Nemo- Thanks for the link, I am going to pm Kathy and see if she got it resolved
Just FYI, here is where it rubs and is not with the entire revolution, just at a certain point.
I rode Liberty half with it rubbing slightly, but really it didn't seem to matter. I did not feel the rub. But, over 112 miles me thinks it might make a difference. I did cut the hole bigger (like I told you Gina) and that helped with the cassette rub, but I suppose one could just keep making the hole bigger, go past the rub on the rd. That would take care of the rub. I just may try it. One may not quite have a disc, but it would be better than no cover and no rub. I will let you know if and when I do it...and if someone else cuts it out...please post back or if you come up with another solution.
Mine is only rubbing @ ; a certain point in the revolution. So, I am toying with this idea: Make a small hole in the cover where it is rubbing, run a very small zip tie through that and lash it to spoke. No tension, just enough to move that area of the cover away from the derailluer. This is maybe 1/8 of an inch.
From the pic it looks like the RD is rubing, see if you can turn the limit screw about a half turn to full turn to get it not to rub (maybe even more depending on how you have them set). I can't remeber off hand, but I think you want to tighten the screw to bring the limit closer to the cassette, but double check that while you are adjusting it.
It is much easy to set the limit screws when there is no load on them so shift a gear or two away from the 28 when you adjust it and then shift back to it.
Ofcourse if you have to move the limit screw so much that you can't shift into the 28, then this wont work and it's time to call wheel builder up or try anything idea.
One more idea - I prefer to put my wheel cover on with tap instead of the plastic screw things. With the tap I was able to smooth out a bump in mine as I taped it to the rim so that might work as well.
I don't see an issue with your zip tie idea, but would try both of the above first.
Hopefully that will move the RD cage in enough to clear the cover and still allow you to get into the 28 with no problem. I agree if you can't get into the 28, forget it and set it back the way it was...but it is worth a try and will only take about 2 minutes.
Correct, black electrical tape works great for holding the wheel cover in place.
My neighbor is also my mechanic, how sweet is that!? He is currently starting a business up with a guy that is a 5 time IMWI finisher, bike fitter, all around smart dude. Just took the bike over and they feel like they can remedy the problem by "tightening" up the cover.
I will let you guys know!!
sweet.......can't wait to read what they come up with
check this link. Most likely you need to adjust the b-screw not the limit screws.
You guys will be hapy to know, it was a VERY high tech fi*(sorry my * key doesn't work).
All he had to do, was shorten the "screws". This automatically tightened up the cover and the rubbing ceased !!
which ones?
Okay, well, my derailleur is clear, it is the cassette that is rubbing. Do you think cutting the screws will have the same effect?
My LBS fixed my wheelcover so that it doesn't rub anymore. What they told me is that a 10sp cassette is essentially a 9sp with thinner cogs and chain. They asked for my original wheel and lo and behold there was a spacer left on it between the hub and where my cassette used to go. That pushed the cassette out far enough on my PT hub to give it enough clearance from the cover. So take a look at that if you are having problems in the future, it just may be as simple as adding a spacer on before you install the cassette and readjust your derailluer limits.
I had a FlashPoint 60 rear wheel so I had about 40 mm or more of carbon to tape it to before the brake track. That said, I have seen multiple people tape them to other normal rims like the velocity rims that wheel builder often uses. I use the normal black electrical tape so it is maybe a half inch wide and half goes on the wheel cover and half onf the rim, therefore you probably need only about a 1/4 inch of exposed rim to tape it too.
I have mine on an Open Pro rim (i.e., heavy, but bombproof) with my PT on the inside, and the edge of the cover comes right up to the rim surface. I guess in theory, I could move the brake contact point up to the "top half" of the rim and tape to the "bottom half", but this is sounding kinda risky to me.
I do put some electrical tape over the little bolts. I don't know if this does any measurable good from an aerodynamic standpoint, but it does keep the bolts in there if they happen to get loose. Not sure how it happened, but one time when I left the cover on for a few weeks (didn't bother to take it off between races) I discovered that one or two of the bolts had loosened up. And yes, I've also discovered that making sure the bolts are as tight closed as they can get makes it less likely to rub anywhere.
OK, admission of general dopiness.
I really went back to the beginning with my cover and actually read the instructions, and all that. All issues solved.
It turns out that it really does matter that you line up the "align this sticker with the stem" sticker with the cutout. The holes, at least on mine, are not quite as equally spaced as I thought. Getting it lined up correctly made all the little bolt holes line up perfectly again. It turned out that all my issues were due to warping of the non-drive side, which is more lenticular than the drive side. My scheme of taping the cover to the spokes was a very bad idea because that lenticular bulge means that whatever you pull in at one place causes something else to get squashed out of position elsewhere.
Probably no one else is as dopey as I was in assuming the alignment of the two covers was idiot-proof... but in case I'm not the only one, please give that a try. My guess is it will help non drive-side issues more than drive side issues, but it's still worth a shot.
Don't worry, at least you did it yourself! I didn't have the patience and it seems every time I get something and its an easy installation, it works for me. So now I just drop it off at my LBS. Plus, they work with mostly road cruisers and little kid bikes so I think they enjoy it. I did find the video on their website helpful though, just wasn't enough room on my wheel. Good job!
My chain/cassette is still rubbing!! This is driving me nuts. Its only in about a 2 inch spot too, like the plastic needs to be held down or tightened or something, and my "crack pipe" isn't working to boot! Its the little things that kill.
Its not the room I don't have, the plastic moves enough for it, I can't seem to keep the pipe on the valve long enough to get the right amount of pressure in the tire. It pops off. Pisses me off, I paid $20 for it and it looks like an actual crack head made it!