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Power for dummies!

I was originally going to send this to Kori Martini in response to some of her recent dashboard posts and knowing that she has recently gotten a brand spanking new powermeter and it is so easy to get intimidated or lost in all the mumbo jumbo, so here goes:


Just giving you all my "unsolicited" Power advice.  Feel free to ignore, or feel free to ask as many questions as you want to ask...   But here's my advice:

Don't get worried or stressed at all about all of the Power geeketry.  You really need almost none of that stuff to really train effectively with power (because RnP did all of the work to write the plans).  You already did an FTP test, so that's the most important part.  Now simply ignore TSS/VI/IF/blah/blah/blah...  You really don't ever need to know what any of that stuff means.  (well not "never", but none of it will really be relevant at all for the next several months in the OS, so don't waste your time on it.)

EN Power 101 according to John Withrow:

Let's pretend that your tested FTP was 221W (and you accidentally lost your data from the VO2 portion of your test).  You basically need to remember 3 numbers and don't worry about anything else.  188W, 221W, 265W.  That's it.  Lesson is over.  If you want the footnotes, read on...

188W - When you see something like "ABP ride" or "80-85%/Zone3/ModHard", then try to stay within a couple Watts of 188, or anywhere between 177-188, but I find it easier to not try to remember the range, I just remember the 85% number, in this case 188W.

221W - This is your number.  When you're doing FTP sets or see something in the plan like "2 x 15' (5') @ 95-100%/Zone4/Hard", then this is an FTP set.  Try to nail that 221W for the 15' sets.  Of course, you can really be anywhere in the range of 210-225W for these sets, but just remember 221W and stay close to it.

265W - This is your VO2 target.  If you have real data from the 5 minute part of your test, you can use that number instead, but it'll probably be pretty close to this 120% number anyways, so don't stress too much about it.  So for the crazy VO2 sets, try to hit this number.  This is hard, but they are short.  If you are close to this number, you're probablly close enough to raise your "ceiling".

So simply follow the EN plan as written and assume that all of the other data and stats will work themselves out.  If you try to nail as many of your workouts as you can and hit those 3 numbers most of the time, then you will get stronger and you will get faster.  Rember, don't overcook yourself on your FTP or VO2 sets.  This new Powermeter tool is a governor as well as a whip.  And if you overcook, it will effect your downstream workouts.  It may take 3 workouts, or 5 weeks, but it will catch up to you, so don't do it.  

Summary:  Don't over think it.  Remember these 3 numbers 188W, 221W, 265W and hit whichever one your plan calls for.  Lather, Rinse, Repeat...  Do this for the next couple of months and let us know when you're ready (if ever) for EN Power 201... 

 

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Comments

  •  @ John - great post and great advice!  Having only recently joined the power kingdom myself, I was (and still am) initially overwhelmed from too much information intake (power webinar; dr. coggan's book; forum...) and decided to make sure I get the basics first (what's number, how do I use it...) before trying to step into analysis and 201 type stuff, so your post is right up there.  One more thing I think that should be included in "101" are some thoughts on how to actually 'hit' the power numbers. I was surprised at how much my numbers jumped around the first few rides, both in 3s and 10s mode. Hell, I wrinkle my nose and my power drops 10 watts... I never would have dreamed that putting watts out consistently would be such a challenge! I found that focusing on cadence and engaging my core more really helps me keep my watt output stable. Just a thought...

  • Nice post, John! Kate, I also have a hard time keeping the watts steady. It's definitely a challenge.
  • I have an SRM and I just set the display to show average watts. Watching the real time power jump around gives me tired head.
  • great post, John.



    should keep a few who are new to power to put aside the Paralysis by Analysis malady. Get a baseline. Know that each workout in EN has a goal, based on those different 'intensities'. Do your sets. Wipe the bike off. Get back to the rest of your life.



    A couple of thoughts that may not even belong in this thread, not hijacking, just adding.....



    if you're on the trainer, try to keep the air in your tires at a consistent pressure and learn to dial in the same amount of tension on the flywheel. I've learned that, once contact is made, I do 5 twists (not even 5 full turns) based on what KK advised me over the phone, to have consistent tension for the workouts. Also, if your numbers are all over the place (when training in the cave), then replace your battery. And, I find it 'easier' to knock the sets out as prescribed when I'm on the trainer as opposed to outside. My outside is nothing but rolling hills. Yes, I can control the watts on the ups, but, despite working hard on the downs, I can't hold that number. The trainer is a 'lab'. Unfortunately, my ego takes a blow when doing sets inside because we all know that watts are lower inside than outside. I don't care that anymore.  I test inside, got my baseline inside, do my sets inside. Then, when I go outside, I just bump the numbers up a bit. Not the other way around.



    Keep up the great work.

  • Nice! Thanks for posting this for us John.
    I'm getting my first tri bike and power meter in a couple of months. Picking the bike will be easy, whatever fits and is in my price range. Those power meters are a little intimidating for us newbies. Plus I am a type B guy, don't care about the in's and out's and technical details. Show or tell me what to do and I'll do it.
    This post makes me feel a lot better about making sense with my power meter. Thanks again John.
  • Couple people have asked me about keeping steady watts and Real time watts vs 3s Watts etc. so here's my opinion on that:

    I never, ever, ever use 1s power. As far as I'm concerned, that sampling rate is actually too high for it to be meaningful. It's kind of like having a fancy camera with a super fast shutter speed, if you use that shutter speed at night, your picture will be all blurry. At night, you need the shudder to stay open longer so it can collect enough light to give you a real picture of what is going on. Same thing with a Powermeter. 1s Power might collect 2 down-strokes of your more dominant leg in 1s or it might catch 1 down-stroke of your dominant leg and 2 dead spot areas. Why would you try to compare these 2 numbers? That's part of the reason the number jumps around so much. 3 second power will give you a large enough sample set of data (several pedal strokes) such that each sample is comparable to the one before it and therefore the number won't jump around quite so much.

    I use a Garmin Edge 500 head unit. I have "3s Power" in 1 cell and "Lap Power" in the cell right next to it. (I also use Trainerroad indoors and have that set to 3s power). So I'm constantly staring at the 3s number and over time you will get better at keeping this number on the dial and you will stay pretty steady indoors or outdoors. It takes a while to get steady though so don't obsess over it at first, just turn the pedals like you know how and do the best you can with a tiny bit of mental effort. For OS stuff on the trainer, I can hit the lap button as I start the work set and then I'll know if I've hit my number for the whole set and not just for a few seconds at a time. I actually have my computer set to auto-lap every 2 miles, so when I'm outside (particularly while racing), it keeps me in a very small box all day. So I try to keep my power near my goal but every 6 minutes or so, I get to forget about the past and have a new game of keeping my lap power number inside my goal range again. And the 3s power number always keeps me honest to not spike going up hills or get lazy as I crest a hill or when going downhill.
  • John thanks for your posts on this topic. Very helpful - I was on the fence about getting power b/c I wasnt sure that I had enough time to invest on the learning curve before I could use the pm effectively. Seems like it can be an effective tool right out of the box, and the nuances can be learned along the way as time permits.

  • I use the %FTP on the Garmin 500 in the beginning so I am in the ballpark right away then I shift to 10s view to maintain consistency but I keep both in the same view along with lap time and cadence. Sometimes I can't remember the math so the %FTP is easier.
  •  There's a new wired pt for sale on ebay (not by me) --they typically go for 300 or so.

     

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=wired+powertap&_sacat=0&_from=R40

  • John, excellent post and resource, thanks for firing this up!
  • amazing in a few paragraphs you have said what took me a very long time to understand. I have been through the webinars read books and did a lot of internet searching to learn what you just wrote.
    the funny part is even if you wrote that I probably would of done the same thing anyway. good job.
  • Thanks for starting this thread, John. I'm new to power and have been doing the bike focus plan for the past month or so. I feel like I've been hitting my targets as you mention with the help of Trainer Road, but I haven't been downloading my garmin files and studying them. I've been meaning to finish the Power Webinar series by watching the last one on analyzing the data prior to the JOS, but I haven't gotten to it yet. Maybe now I'll just stick with trying to hit my numbers and watch the webinar when I can. I guess I'll see if I've really been hitting my numbers come Jan. with that first power test! Thanks again.
  • Here' some of my Power thoughts:
    1. Calibrate each time you ride (tire pressure, temp, etc.) can vary alot
    2. Indoor power numbers will be less than outside power numbers (don't worry about it)
    3. I use an Indoor FTP (241w) and and Outside FTP (254w) for me
    4. Trying to hit high power will tend to make you grind (lower rpm) gears, try to keep rpms up
    5. Different power meters I have owned have different numbers (IOW my Ergomo had a FTP 268w and when switching to PT I was at 250w) so dont' compare your watts to other people....apples to oranges
    6. Your weight and sex can impact numbers alot...remember these are only your numbers........IOW a male holding 200w could be passed in a race by a smaller female holding 150w.....
  • Great post, John.  I just worked my way through the power webinar and i'm swimming in information.  I feel like what you described is a very easy way to apply the concepts presented, without over thinking thinkgs too much.  It's certainly a great way for someone new to power, such as myself, to get started.  I'm currently in healing mode from a bike crash, but i will be referring back to this post when i'm finally able to get back on the horse.

  • Power forum subscribers may be interested in a free live webinar by Hunter Allen on January 7th that goes over the basics of using WKO+. Here is the link to registration:
    https://www2.gotomeeting.com/register/345078946
  • This thread is very helpful. Never trained with power and always just HR and PE. Still don't have a real power meter but I'm hoping the virtual power in Trainer Road will be relatively consistent so I can measure my progress for the OS. When it comes time to get back out on the road I will have to revert back to PE and HR but hopefully I will be able to carry over the "gestalt" to the road.
  • Really dumb question but I got on here before I even tried messing with it, just got a brand new to me used power meter. How do I change the battery?
  • Jason, what brand?
  • Assuming it's a Powertap, there's a little plastic battery cap removal tool you will need. It's pretty easy with that. You unscrew the hub cap, gently lift out the plastic tray thingy that holds the batteries. Replace the batteries, push the plastic thingy back into the hub and screw the cap back on. Here it is in detail:

    http://www.cycleops.com/training/training-resources/180-replacing-powertap-batteries.html

    It should take 5 mins the first time, then about 2-3 minutes each time after that. I buy my batteries in bulk on Amazon then change them like 3 times per yr, especially before an A race. Batteries are sufficiently cheap that I am willing to replace them way before I need to to avoid the risk that I lose my PM during a race.
  • Very easy to do Jason, once you do it once.
  • I have the tool you will need. Also don't by silver oxide batteries as it states. The regular and cheapest ones at Walgreens works and just as long.
  • Alrighty, so I owe some feedback...since John took the time out of his INSANELY busy life to create this resource for me when I was a power newbie, I want to provide some "before" vs "after" comparison now that I'm a power athlete and not a HR athlete.

    -I work much much harder training with power. When you are staring at that number and WILL. NOT. LET. IT. DROP, it's much more motivating to shell yourself in a workout than with HR.
    -Power is much more of a consistent target to train with. When I used HR, my numbers were all over depending on if I did my sets at 4:30AM or 5PM, indoors or out, after a run or before, with blue socks or with black, etc....HR is just really really subjective. Power isn't. If I'm supposed to hit 235 in a 10' FTP set on my trainer, then I have to hit 235. There's no "adjusting" for lack of sleep, coffee before, etc. I like that. Gives me less head space to make it "easy" on myself. No thinking. Hit your numbers. Lather, rinse, repeat.
    -Performance metrics are easily assessed and targets are easily understood. I rode outdoors with power for the first time in AZ. The last day was our Mt. Lemmon climb. Given the %FTP that was recommended for the climb, I was able to stick to that number for the ascent and felt excellent at the top. I can guarantee I would've turned myself inside out at the base and never saw 8,000 feet. Again, HR is subjective. Especially in race circumstances when everything is adrenaline-fueled and you're pumped and ready to rock. Power isn't. Whether you feel great or not, your guidelines are your guidelines. That's huge when your head is swirling with other things....

    I'm sure there's other things I'm forgetting, but these are the main points for now.

    Things I'm still working out:
    -What fields I like to show on my head unit.
    -How to ride "steadier" outdoors. We have rolling hills and some short/steep climbs here in MI, so being steady is a true challenge.
    -How to interpret what I've done. I haven't hooked my Garmin up to my Mac yet. Not once. I know the "totals" for each ride, but beyond that? Not much.

    THANK YOU to JW for getting me started and pointing me in the right direction with the power business. I'm voting him the next WSM!!

  • Posted By Kori Martini on 22 Apr 2013 08:56 AM




    -What fields I like to show on my head unit.



    Which computer do you use?  There is a thread about edge 500 screens here: http://members.endurancenation.us/F...spx#111146 

     

  • If anyone is ready to dip your toe into the Power 200 level course, here's a decent write-up describing much of the lingo that you hear people throwing around:
    http://www.endurancecorner.com/wko_definitions
  • Thanks for the simplicity John. I'm newbie as well.  I've got webinar 2 & 3 to get through and like most newbies...I feel like I'm back in the pool.  I've got my watch showing the numbers thanks to Joe Matchette!  Now I'm at...where do I upload all my information?  I have Garmin Connect which shows the graphs and gives me Average Power (which is sad), max power (which looks pretty studly) and max average (which is better than the average power).  It also give the NP, IF and TSS.  But that being said..do you have to get the software or is there someplace else to plug in your numbers to get you FTP??   I also see 2 different types of testing.  The 5 min TT, 10 ez spin, 20 min hard and the 2 x 20 (20).  I'm assuming for the 1st time I should do the 2x20.

    Can you help?? 

    Jenn

  • Jenn
    Most peeps use WKO (bought from Coach R) or Golden Cheater (free) to upload their power (and pace if applicable).
    You should do the 5 min TT (hard), 10 mins easy, then 20 min TT (hard) — then take 95% of your Pnorm for the 20 min TT.
    Happy to elaborate.
    Cheers
    Peter
  • Thanks Peter! I'll check both of them out! I know with WKO I have to have excel... Which I don't. Does Cheater run off excel as well?
    I'm glad I don't have to do 2 x 20!
    Off to the aqueduct for the test... No traffic or stop lights!
    Ps... Great having people like you for a resource! Thanks
  • Jennifer - WKO does not require Excel. It is a stand-alone program.... AKAIK, Golden Cheetah is the same.

    If you want a web-based solution, then the Training Peaks subscription ($10/mo, I think) is another option.
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