powertap sl filled with water in the hub, which by the way would explain why it failed during my last IM. Saris very quick to fix the problem. Also computrainer for the cave and garmin 305 for running, love it. 54 miles in the cave today on the CT, ouch. P.g.
Bike - Quarq Cinqo (love it) but considering switching to PowerTap so I can use power on both my bikes. Been postponing it because I love the Quarq Run - Garmin 310xt (after my 305 died) Pain cave: - Trainer: CompuTrainer, and a Tacx iMagic (going to sell the Tacx eventually) - laptop
Considering the footpod as I haven't bought any toys in weeks ...
Mike - how often would you be swapping, and are you able to swap the crank between the two bikes or is their a compatibility problem? I read that switching can be a pretty simple 1 bolt procedure.
Rick - have you had any data dropout problems with your Cinqo/310XT? I read that there can be depending on where you wear/mount the 310XT. Apparently Cinqo is fixing the problem with a hardware revision this fall.
Only asking these two question because I was debating between a PT and Cinqo for a while. Hypothetical now, as I ended up going with a PT for a variety of complicated reasons (which I'm very happy with), but still curious.
I intially had drop out problems, but relocated the 310 (it's now in between me and my aero bottle as opposed to in front of my aero bottle) and it essentially resolved the problem. Jim at Quarq acknowledged the issue and said it was due to the water proofing of the Quarq. I'm suprised, but pleased to hear that an update might resolve the issue.
Bike - Quarq Cinqo (love it) but considering switching to PowerTap so I can use power on both my bikes. Been postponing it because I love the Quarq
Run - Garmin 310xt (after my 305 died)
Pain cave:
- Trainer: CompuTrainer, and a Tacx iMagic (going to sell the Tacx eventually)
- laptop
Considering the footpod as I haven't bought any toys in weeks ...
Mike,
When I had a chance to actually play with a quarq a couple of weeks ago one of the things that stood out was how easy it really would be to swap between bikes. On the sram set up it is one allan bolt and took about 45 seconds. Might have actually been easier than swapping a wheel. All you need is another bottom bracket. Really cool set up. I want one now.
iBike iAero. Love having IF TSS and NP real time while I ride. Also like having air temp and wind speed available.
Both devices are interchangeable on both my road bike and my Tri bike. If I want both PMs, I swap wheels, if I don't need both PMs, the iBike will easily swap in about 5 secs from one wireless mount to the other.
My faithful Garmin Forerunner 305. I honestly can't imagine running without it.
Cycling -- For training I have a PT SL (wired) on a BW50, a PT SL+ on a Mavic Open Pro and a very old non-functional PT Pro (wired) on a Mavic Open Pro. For racing I have a PT SL (wireless) on a BW100.
Bike - Quarq Cinqo (love it) but considering switching to PowerTap so I can use power on both my bikes. Been postponing it because I love the Quarq
Run - Garmin 310xt (after my 305 died)
Pain cave:
- Trainer: CompuTrainer, and a Tacx iMagic (going to sell the Tacx eventually)
- laptop
Considering the footpod as I haven't bought any toys in weeks ...
Mike,
When I had a chance to actually play with a quarq a couple of weeks ago one of the things that stood out was how easy it really would be to swap between bikes. On the sram set up it is one allan bolt and took about 45 seconds. Might have actually been easier than swapping a wheel. All you need is another bottom bracket. Really cool set up. I want one now.
Got a question here. It's not like you're just removing one crank. You have to remove both cranks. I have plenty experience swapping cranks in the past and find it really hard to believe that it's that quick. PCs are dead easy to swap too but they still take much longer to do than you expect. Can you help me understand the process in detail?
There is one 8 mm allan bolt holding the non drive crank. Popped the chain to the inside of the small ring, undid that one bolt and the crank arm came off in my hand. As it is an integrated BB like a new shimano one the drive side just slides out. Install is the same, slid the drive side through, push on the non drive crank arm, tighten the one bolt [with my torque wrench cause I am anal like that], flip the chain on and good to go.
Also, as for the ease of this. It was my friend Kevin's bike, with a Red CC. I had never worked on the bike or any Sram component. Also the P3 did not fit in my stand so I had to do it with the bike leaning against the wall. Not sure if the bike had ever been taken apart in the last couple of years. If you were to do it on a regular basis it would be even easier.
Actually, as it was the initial install I had to take the drive side of the bottom bracket off to install the magnet holder. If you had it on 2 bikes you would obviously have an identical BB on each and a magnet holder on each as well. If you do not want to use the holder [no clue why anyone would not] you have to glue a rare earth magnet to the BB shell.
Not sure what type of cranks, BB you run but the sram system is very similar to the shimano ones on my bikes except that the shimano ones have 2 allan bolts to attach the non drive side crank arm. I switch cranksets between my road and tri bikes a few times a year [I have one 50/34 and one 53/39] and it is only harder as you have to torque the two bolts and remove a dust cover.
I am a new member and had some good numbers on the bike over the past 4 weeks. Wanted to get your opinion bumping up my threshold or just stay the course and keep doing the plan. I have hit my numbers each time on the intervals over the past 4 weeks. Just looking for some guidance/wisdom of being patient. Great job with the forums and all the information everyone provides
There is one 8 mm allan bolt holding the non drive crank. Popped the chain to the inside of the small ring, undid that one bolt and the crank arm came off in my hand. As it is an integrated BB like a new shimano one the drive side just slides out. Install is the same, slid the drive side through, push on the non drive crank arm, tighten the one bolt [with my torque wrench cause I am anal like that], flip the chain on and good to go.
Also, as for the ease of this. It was my friend Kevin's bike, with a Red CC. I had never worked on the bike or any Sram component. Also the P3 did not fit in my stand so I had to do it with the bike leaning against the wall. Not sure if the bike had ever been taken apart in the last couple of years. If you were to do it on a regular basis it would be even easier.
Actually, as it was the initial install I had to take the drive side of the bottom bracket off to install the magnet holder. If you had it on 2 bikes you would obviously have an identical BB on each and a magnet holder on each as well. If you do not want to use the holder [no clue why anyone would not] you have to glue a rare earth magnet to the BB shell.
Not sure what type of cranks, BB you run but the sram system is very similar to the shimano ones on my bikes except that the shimano ones have 2 allan bolts to attach the non drive side crank arm. I switch cranksets between my road and tri bikes a few times a year [I have one 50/34 and one 53/39] and it is only harder as you have to torque the two bolts and remove a dust cover.
The Quark is something I am interested in at this point. Installed one last week and it seemed like a really cool toy to me.
Quark: (physics) hypothetical truly fundamental particle in mesons and baryons; there are supposed to be six flavors of quarks (and their antiquarks ...
Comments
PM's:
PT with Mavic Open Pro
Quark Cinqo compact SramS900 with rotor rings (love it!)
Ergomo not in use
Eagerly awaiting Q1 for the metri-gear Speedplay PM
Garmins: 201, 305, 310xt, 705
Awaiting Saris Joule 2.0 next month
Vince
I'm clearly an EN outlier: I run a SRM unit for power on the cycle.
On the run I'm strictly mainstream: a Garmin 305.
OK Mike, you just pushed me over the edge on the foot pod thing. It's on the way.
Thanks!
tom
PT SL+ 2.4 wireless in Mavic Open Pro and a dead Garmin 305.
P.g.
OK as I decided to get the list up for this I realized I must sell some of this stuff.
PM's= Quarq Cinco on Race Tri bike, PT on road bike, SRM oon old tri bike take out in nasty weather. Garmin 705 with all but SRM.
Garmin 310 newly purchased for the run and swim along with footpod and cadence sensor for bike backup.
Also have a Garmin 305, 301 (wife now using), and polar rs800 (never could properly calibrate to my stride)
Winter training I have the Computrainer but put the main tri bike with Quarq on it for all data.
I have 4 sets of wheels= Race disc, 808's, and training wheels with PT hubs.
I have way too much stuff. I smell a tri garage sale in the Prough house.
Computrainer for pain cave.
Zipp 808 rear with Powertap SL wireless for PT(racing and outside training)
Actually have a mountain bike with a Powertap on it too....for riding the country roads of Kansas
Garmin 305 for running.
a bunch of you guys make me feel better about all the toys sitting around the house, turns out I need to buy MORE, who knew
Quarq cinco with the 310xt.
I love the 310, but the comaptibility issues with wko+ limit analysis at this point in time.
Run - Garmin 310xt (after my 305 died)
Pain cave:
- Trainer: CompuTrainer, and a Tacx iMagic (going to sell the Tacx eventually)
- laptop
Considering the footpod as I haven't bought any toys in weeks ...
Mike - how often would you be swapping, and are you able to swap the crank between the two bikes or is their a compatibility problem? I read that switching can be a pretty simple 1 bolt procedure.
I intially had drop out problems, but relocated the 310 (it's now in between me and my aero bottle as opposed to in front of my aero bottle) and it essentially resolved the problem. Jim at Quarq acknowledged the issue and said it was due to the water proofing of the Quarq. I'm suprised, but pleased to hear that an update might resolve the issue.
PowerTap SL+ mounted in a ZIPP 404
iBike iAero. Love having IF TSS and NP real time while I ride. Also like having air temp and wind speed available.
Both devices are interchangeable on both my road bike and my Tri bike. If I want both PMs, I swap wheels, if I don't need both PMs, the iBike will easily swap in about 5 secs from one wireless mount to the other.
My faithful Garmin Forerunner 305. I honestly can't imagine running without it.
Bike - PT 2.4 SL (wireless) on a DT Swiss RR 1.2 wheel.
Run - Garmin 310XT (waste of money IMHO - wish I woulda kept the 305)
CycleOps fluid trainer.
Tom Glynn showed up at track this morning with a new footpod. Now I have to get one! DAMN all of you!!
What do I do when he gets the Joules?
Should we add to this post by putting pics of our "pimp my ride" bikes to see what everyone is riding?
Garmin Forerunner 305
Kurt Kenetic Pro trainer
Bike: Quintana Roo Lucero Lite/Syntace bars/Adamo Race saddle
Trainer: SuperMagneto Pro
Wheel/PT: Bontrager 6.5 Aeolus and PowerTap SL+ (PT is brand spankin' new today!)
Run: Garmin 310XT w/foot pod
Updated: 12-06-2010
Powertap Elite+ in a Kinlin XR-300 rim put together by wheelbuilder with a wheelcover for racing.
Bike computer: Edge 705
Run & race: Forerunner 310xt + footpod + HR strap
Kurt kinetic trainer
Bike Computer: Edge 705
Run & race: Forerunner 305 & 310XT. Prefer the 305 over the 310XT so far. Maybe I just need to use the 310 more. For now the 305 has my vote.
Elite Crono Primo Elastogel Trainer
Running -- Garmin 310XT
Cycling -- For training I have a PT SL (wired) on a BW50, a PT SL+ on a Mavic Open Pro and a very old non-functional PT Pro (wired) on a Mavic Open Pro. For racing I have a PT SL (wireless) on a BW100.
Thanks, Chris
Bike: Ergomo (Recently updated battery..working great!) Also belong to a local cycling center which houses 12 Computrainers.
Run: 305
Chris,
There is one 8 mm allan bolt holding the non drive crank. Popped the chain to the inside of the small ring, undid that one bolt and the crank arm came off in my hand. As it is an integrated BB like a new shimano one the drive side just slides out. Install is the same, slid the drive side through, push on the non drive crank arm, tighten the one bolt [with my torque wrench cause I am anal like that], flip the chain on and good to go.
Also, as for the ease of this. It was my friend Kevin's bike, with a Red CC. I had never worked on the bike or any Sram component. Also the P3 did not fit in my stand so I had to do it with the bike leaning against the wall. Not sure if the bike had ever been taken apart in the last couple of years. If you were to do it on a regular basis it would be even easier.
Actually, as it was the initial install I had to take the drive side of the bottom bracket off to install the magnet holder. If you had it on 2 bikes you would obviously have an identical BB on each and a magnet holder on each as well. If you do not want to use the holder [no clue why anyone would not] you have to glue a rare earth magnet to the BB shell.
Not sure what type of cranks, BB you run but the sram system is very similar to the shimano ones on my bikes except that the shimano ones have 2 allan bolts to attach the non drive side crank arm. I switch cranksets between my road and tri bikes a few times a year [I have one 50/34 and one 53/39] and it is only harder as you have to torque the two bolts and remove a dust cover.
Bikes:
Wired PowerTap Pro in Mavic Open 700cc on Road Bike w/ Yellow Computer
Wireless PowerTap Pro in Zipp 404 650cc on old Tri Bike
SRM Compact Crank with PowerControl VI built into new 700cc Tri Bike
Computrainer
Run:
Garmin 310XT (Can pair with SRM Above)
Garmin 305
I am a new member and had some good numbers on the bike over the past 4 weeks. Wanted to get your opinion bumping up my threshold or just stay the course and keep doing the plan. I have hit my numbers each time on the intervals over the past 4 weeks. Just looking for some guidance/wisdom of being patient. Great job with the forums and all the information everyone provides
Cheers
Steve Maxim
PowerTap Pro+ Wireless built into a Velocity Deep V. Yellow computer
Garmin 305
Computrainer
Got it. Good detail. Thanks Chris!!
Quark: (physics) hypothetical truly fundamental particle in mesons and baryons; there are supposed to be six flavors of quarks (and their antiquarks ...
Or did you mean QUARQ?