So does anyone here have an idea as to whether or not the 700x24 Specialized S-Works Turbo will work on older, aluminum-track ZIPP wheels (circa 2009-11)?
Update: turns out that the margins, labor rate, shipping, etc to offer a tire deal competitive to what you'd find on Amazon is too much for Wheelbuilder to compete stuff. That is, their set up for service the high end vs low end stuff.
I typically pick up the GP4000s from Pro Bike Kit for about $40 each. Just keep an eye open for their sales.
Question on the installation of latex tubes. I did the talc powder trick and managed to get 2 of 3 tubes installed without a problem. On the third wheel i had a bit of the tube pinched between the tire bead and the side of the rim. I put in a little bit of air at a time and kept trying to work it out, but once I got around10-20psi in the tube I could no longer pull the side of the tire away from the rim to check the pinch. When i fully inflated it blew somewhere between 80 and 100 psi. My question is on the 2 tires i managed to install without blowing. Is it safe to say that if i can inflate to 100psi that the tubes are properly installed? I took them out for about a 5 mile spin and no issues, but i'm nervous because when i installed the tubes, i had to work potential pinches out of both and i never could tell for sure if i was able to work the tube back under the tire. Any thoughts?
Question on the installation of latex tubes. I did the talc powder trick and managed to get 2 of 3 tubes installed without a problem. On the third wheel i had a bit of the tube pinched between the tire bead and the side of the rim. I put in a little bit of air at a time and kept trying to work it out, but once I got around10-20psi in the tube I could no longer pull the side of the tire away from the rim to check the pinch. When i fully inflated it blew somewhere between 80 and 100 psi. My question is on the 2 tires i managed to install without blowing. Is it safe to say that if i can inflate to 100psi that the tubes are properly installed? I took them out for about a 5 mile spin and no issues, but i'm nervous because when i installed the tubes, i had to work potential pinches out of both and i never could tell for sure if i was able to work the tube back under the tire. Any thoughts?
I'd say that is you installed them incorrectly, ie pinched the tube between the bead and the rim, they would have blown when you inflated them. So I think you're good.
Note to self: swing by WB to get to setup for IMSG...
@Mark Cardinale... I would say NO.... You need to make absolutely sure its installed correctly before inflating all the way.... Just because you can use it once or twice does not mean all is OK !
I installed a latex tube 1 week before IMFL in Nov 2013 , raced with no problem, left it in , trained on it all winter, then I did a 4 mile TT race on it March 2014 a full 4 months later , 4 mile TT went fine , but while waiting for the next race a 12 mile TT it blew right while I was standing there.... Took the tire right off the bead so it was the latex snaked out between the tire/rim , apparently I pumped up a little high , ran it in the 4 miler and heated it up and then it blew.... So make damn sure they are 100% correct all the way around both sides.... I like to use the Vittoria Pink latex tubes as they are very easy to see !
@Rich and Tim - thanks for the advice. For peace of mind I deinflated all tires to about 10psi and then meticulously checked for any hint of the tube poking between the bead and the rim. Everything looked good and i reinflated with no problems. Thanks!
@Jeff - LOL! It's actually, my FLO60/90Disc, but I like how you're thinking!
Definitely check them properly before you fully inflate them.
But another thing you can do is pump them up to ~125psi. Then let some air out to bring them back down to proper race pressure. If they don't explode at 125 psi, they are installed properly. If they do explode at 125 psi, you might be out $11, but better to know while your bike is still at your house than to find out during the race...
When I google the Vittoria tire, they all say "CX" in the name of the tire, as in "Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX Road Tire". Is this the right tire?
Also, dumb question but I assume this doesn't mean you race 11w over your target watts, correct? It just means you are going to get more speed out of your target watts? I don't know what I just asked. Can someone read my mind and answer my crazy question? LOL
When I google the Vittoria tire, they all say "CX" in the name of the tire, as in "Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX Road Tire". Is this the right tire?
Also, dumb question but I assume this doesn't mean you race 11w over your target watts, correct? It just means you are going to get more speed out of your target watts? I don't know what I just asked. Can someone read my mind and answer my crazy question? LOL
No, you do NOT ride 11w higher. You ride at your watts and the bike goes faster because fewer of those watts are being claimed by rolling resistance.
Posted By <a href='http://members.endurancenation.us/ActivityFeed/tabid/61/userid/2019/Default.aspx' class='af-profile-link'>Victor Kaiser</a> on 21 Apr 2015 09:50 AM <p><span style="color: #666666; text-align: start; letter-spacing: normal; background-color: #ffffff;">When I google the Vittoria tire, they all say "CX" in the name of the tire, as in "</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px; color: #666666;">Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX Road Tire". Is this the right tire?</span></p> <p>Also, dumb question but I assume this doesn't mean you race 11w over your target watts, correct? It just means you are going to get more speed out of your target watts? I don't know what I just asked. Can someone read my mind and answer my crazy question? LOL</p>
Yeah, my pet peeve with defining things like this via watts. It's free *speed*, meaning you should go faster @ the same watts. The exact differential? YMMV...
I bought a set of S-Works Turbo 26c for the road bike and 24c for the tri-bike.... As mentioned before I'm kinda tired of sidewall failures on the Conti GP4000s tires and they never felt as good as the Vittoria 22c tri tire.... So I'm gonna try these and probably the vittoria corsa in the wider version eventually...
Installed the 26c on the road bike today , they are narrower than the conti 25c's that I took off... Liked the ride quite a bit and PR'ed the crap out of my ride today climbing and descending... FWIW they are on HED Jet + wheels which measure 24.5mm and appear to be flush with rim unlike the conti 25c that came off that appeared to be wider than the rim....I also put my wheel up against Heathers FLO rims w/conti 25c tires on and they are definitely narrower .... Dont know how a 26c is narrower than a 25c but oh well... I ran the PSI @ 75-78..... Did the tires make me faster? Heck no its the damn engine but they weren't any slower than the conti gp 4000s....
I'll add my 2 cents about the 24c on the tri-bike this weekend.... so far so good and they were easy to work with as well!
I ran the S-works Turbo 24c on FLO (24mm) wheels on my tri-bike... They appear narrower than the Conti 23C.... Nice tire , feel , handling , comfort, speed , all there IMO... I ran some intervals but not as structured as previous tires so no real numbers to compare but I can say I think they are fast and wouldnt hesitate using them over conti's.... I do think I like the s-works turbo 26c better because they seem to fit the wider wheels better, will try them on the FLO's next...
S-works 26c is narrower than Conti GP4000s 25c S-works 24c is narrower than Conti GP4000s 23c
Hey Folks, Kinda newbie question for you... In the recommended tire inflation pressure, what is driving reason behind lighter riders inflating the tires less? Is the idea more comfort or is there a thought that there will be less rolling resistance?
Why the preference for the latex tubes? Are they lighter?
Latex tubes are lighter and when you consider the weight is spinning it make a bigger difference.
Tired give better ride with a bit lower pressure and also offer more grip. Lighter pressure provides a bigger contact patch on the ground. MTB tired when set up tubeless are often run at 30psi or less.
There's an optimum amount of compliance for best rolling resistance and lighter people compress the tire less so they need slightly lower pressures. Wider rim/tire combos also require less pressure for optimum rolling resistance. Road surface also plays a significant role here. On a perfectly smooth surface like a velodrome very high pressure is good but on real roads all of the small imperfections and surface roughness actually makes the tire bounce. I'm not really in agreement with the tire pressure chart Tim posted. Everything I've seen suggests under 100PSI unless you are heavier. I run about 90-95PSI personally at about 155lbs. Latex tubes also provide more efficient rolling resistance. It has nothing to do with them being slightly lighter.
IMO the ideal tire pressure is the lowest one at which you do not get flats. Many factors affect this...rider weight, bike frame material characteristics, tire material characteristics like compliance and puncture resistance, rim qualities, rim tape effectiveness, road surface, weather, etc, etc, etc. so it's real hard to come up with a formula for all seasons based on only one of those parameters. With that in mind, I've learned that for my system, 105 rear/100 front works best.
Wider does not necessarily mean more contact with the road as it did in the past. One of the concepts behind the S-Works 24mm is that the slightly wider (wider than the S-Works 23mm anyway) tire changes the shape of the surface where the tire touches the road. rather than a long-slim oval, it creates a kind of short-wider oval and the latter has less surface are on the road than the former (hence the reduced rolling resistance).
I have my first race in about a year and a half scheduled for a week from Sunday. I'm doing Rivercities sprint on Aug 2.
Just picked up a set of the Evo Open Corsa CX tires and latex tubes for the race. Should I put those on this week and do a couple rides on them or just wait until race weekend?
Also, for riders > 180 lbs, the recommendation is to inflate to maximum. So, you want me to inflate these tires to 145 psi? Can't say I've ever done that. But if that's the recommendation, cool. I've never inflated to 120 for any particular reason so if 145 at least has some rationale behind it, I'm in.
Definitely do one or two or three rides on new tires and tube combo prior to race. I want to make sure the tube is set right. I don't have an opinion on 145 psi but it sounds very high. I guess that is an opinion.
Comments
I second the endorsement of this tire... it feels great while riding and has been a good racing tire.
specialized having two for one through may.
racing tires for $25!
Link to buy?
I think this is the link for the tire sale
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ne...3gQ.162QnA
yes just the regular specialized site.
http://specialized.com/us/en/ftb/ro...road-tires
for racing::: the s-works turbo. NOT turbo pro.
So does anyone here have an idea as to whether or not the 700x24 Specialized S-Works Turbo will work on older, aluminum-track ZIPP wheels (circa 2009-11)?
Question on the installation of latex tubes. I did the talc powder trick and managed to get 2 of 3 tubes installed without a problem. On the third wheel i had a bit of the tube pinched between the tire bead and the side of the rim. I put in a little bit of air at a time and kept trying to work it out, but once I got around10-20psi in the tube I could no longer pull the side of the tire away from the rim to check the pinch. When i fully inflated it blew somewhere between 80 and 100 psi. My question is on the 2 tires i managed to install without blowing. Is it safe to say that if i can inflate to 100psi that the tubes are properly installed? I took them out for about a 5 mile spin and no issues, but i'm nervous because when i installed the tubes, i had to work potential pinches out of both and i never could tell for sure if i was able to work the tube back under the tire. Any thoughts?
I'd say that is you installed them incorrectly, ie pinched the tube between the bead and the rim, they would have blown when you inflated them. So I think you're good.
Note to self: swing by WB to get to setup for IMSG...
I installed a latex tube 1 week before IMFL in Nov 2013 , raced with no problem, left it in , trained on it all winter, then I did a 4 mile TT race on it March 2014 a full 4 months later , 4 mile TT went fine , but while waiting for the next race a 12 mile TT it blew right while I was standing there.... Took the tire right off the bead so it was the latex snaked out between the tire/rim , apparently I pumped up a little high , ran it in the 4 miler and heated it up and then it blew.... So make damn sure they are 100% correct all the way around both sides.... I like to use the Vittoria Pink latex tubes as they are very easy to see !
@ Mark....JW is now riding a fat bike. Are you on a tricycle now?!
@Rich and Tim - thanks for the advice. For peace of mind I deinflated all tires to about 10psi and then meticulously checked for any hint of the tube poking between the bead and the rim. Everything looked good and i reinflated with no problems. Thanks!
@Jeff - LOL! It's actually, my FLO60/90Disc, but I like how you're thinking!
But another thing you can do is pump them up to ~125psi. Then let some air out to bring them back down to proper race pressure. If they don't explode at 125 psi, they are installed properly. If they do explode at 125 psi, you might be out $11, but better to know while your bike is still at your house than to find out during the race...
When I google the Vittoria tire, they all say "CX" in the name of the tire, as in "Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX Road Tire". Is this the right tire?
Also, dumb question but I assume this doesn't mean you race 11w over your target watts, correct? It just means you are going to get more speed out of your target watts? I don't know what I just asked. Can someone read my mind and answer my crazy question? LOL
No, you do NOT ride 11w higher. You ride at your watts and the bike goes faster because fewer of those watts are being claimed by rolling resistance.
Installed the 26c on the road bike today , they are narrower than the conti 25c's that I took off... Liked the ride quite a bit and PR'ed the crap out of my ride today climbing and descending... FWIW they are on HED Jet + wheels which measure 24.5mm and appear to be flush with rim unlike the conti 25c that came off that appeared to be wider than the rim....I also put my wheel up against Heathers FLO rims w/conti 25c tires on and they are definitely narrower .... Dont know how a 26c is narrower than a 25c but oh well... I ran the PSI @ 75-78..... Did the tires make me faster? Heck no its the damn engine but they weren't any slower than the conti gp 4000s....
I'll add my 2 cents about the 24c on the tri-bike this weekend.... so far so good and they were easy to work with as well!
S-works 26c is narrower than Conti GP4000s 25c
S-works 24c is narrower than Conti GP4000s 23c
Hey Folks,
Kinda newbie question for you... In the recommended tire inflation pressure, what is driving reason behind lighter riders inflating the tires less? Is the idea more comfort or is there a thought that there will be less rolling resistance?
Why the preference for the latex tubes? Are they lighter?
Thanks for the help gang!
Erik
Tired give better ride with a bit lower pressure and also offer more grip. Lighter pressure provides a bigger contact patch on the ground. MTB tired when set up tubeless are often run at 30psi or less.
Sheldon Brown has an interesting page about tires: http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
I have my first race in about a year and a half scheduled for a week from Sunday. I'm doing Rivercities sprint on Aug 2.
Just picked up a set of the Evo Open Corsa CX tires and latex tubes for the race. Should I put those on this week and do a couple rides on them or just wait until race weekend?
Also, for riders > 180 lbs, the recommendation is to inflate to maximum. So, you want me to inflate these tires to 145 psi? Can't say I've ever done that. But if that's the recommendation, cool. I've never inflated to 120 for any particular reason so if 145 at least has some rationale behind it, I'm in.