I don't know how much lower your going to go in gears since you have an 11-28 on the back with a compact crank. Do you ride with power? It just may mean that you need to get more comfortable climbing at a lower cadence, which will take practice. You might be able to get a different cassette, but I'd think that you would have some massive gaps with that big of a range of gears.
@Keith That's what I thought. I think it's just practice, doing the work on hills and time in the saddle. This is my first road bike, so power has to wait until next year when I can afford it. Thanks a lot for your thoughtful reply!
I was listening to an older podcast where it was recommended to run a compact crank up front. Is this still the recommendation? I have a 12-27 in the back and 53-39 up front. I am a "Clydesdale" (at least for a couple more months) and am racing Kansas and Augusta this year. In listening to last years podcasts it sounds like KS is hilly, although Augusta wasn't too bad when I raced it last year. Thanks.
I was listening to an older podcast where it was recommended to run a compact crank up front. Is this still the recommendation? I have a 12-27 in the back and 53-39 up front. I am a "Clydesdale" (at least for a couple more months) and am racing Kansas and Augusta this year. In listening to last years podcasts it sounds like KS is hilly, although Augusta wasn't too bad when I raced it last year. Thanks.
Short answer -- Yes.
If you want to go against that guidance, it requires special dispensation from Coach Rich. Otherwise you risk a possible kick in the nutz.
I've been running an 11-28 since last years Wisc camp with an 50/34 crank. When I wrecked and totaled by bike my P3 came with a 53/39 crank and I still run a 11/28. I love training with the bigger crank cause in my head it makes me stronger. I then change out cranks come race time. However I am riding the 53/39 and 11/28 at the Wisc camp and just see how much harder it is. I will then decide what to do.
I have a big goal for IM Wisc. So want to make the best choices for me. Hoping FTP to be 275 by then
Thanks guys! I def don't want a kick to the nutz! And good luck Carl. I think yours was one of the podcasts I listened to from KS. Not positive but I think it was.
Yes, in my strong opinion, everyone needs compact crank for IM. Unless you are faster than 4:50 on a flat course. I am close to 4 watts per kg. 185 lbs. Use compact and 11-28 on all but flat courses. If one wants to do lower candence, still plenty of gears to do this. I do like to keep a cadence >= 90. Full compact convert since joining EN. I can not think of any reasons to be using standard crank.
Another rookie question - do I have to replace the entire crank set including the arms? I have an FSA crank/arms that I really like and would like to keep the arms if that is possible and just replace the teeth. Is that recommened or even doable? Thanks again!!
Standard and compact cranks have a different bolt diameter. The standard is 130 BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) and the compact is 110 BCD so the short answer is yes you have to replace the entire crank set and get new rings if you currently have 130 BCD cranks. The size is typically stamped on the chain rings.
Has anyone done IMLP with a 50/34 up front and a 12-25 in back? I've got that set-up now (700c wheels). I really don't want to (can't) sink much more $$$ into tri stuff this year. Is it possible to run this set-up and not take a huge hit on the hills? I rode this set-up in IM-Wisco in 2010 and felt fine on the hills there. I guess I'll also get a chance to try it out at the Rally.....
Has anyone done IMLP with a 50/34 up front and a 12-25 in back? I've got that set-up now (700c wheels). I really don't want to (can't) sink much more $$$ into tri stuff this year. Is it possible to run this set-up and not take a huge hit on the hills? I rode this set-up in IM-Wisco in 2010 and felt fine on the hills there. I guess I'll also get a chance to try it out at the Rally.....
In 2010 I did an on course race rehearsel with a 50/34 and an 11-26, I opted to get a 12-27 for the race. Your days at the LP rally will tell you a lot. I'll probably have an extra cassette (26 or 27) for race day if you want to borrow one for the rally on day 2 and race.
Oh now I'm just embarrassed....and I'm actually an engineer. Sad. I can take your engine and transmission apart and put them back together again, but don't ask me to swap out a cassette. ;-) THANK YOU!
@Kori, I did the camp last year with a 12-25 but switched to MO GEARS with an 11-28 for the race...its doable for the camp but it was nice to have a just a bit more Easy gear for the race...
@Kori - We're even 'cause when I open the hood on my car i try to find the magic on/off switch that got stuck in the wrong position. Somehow I never seem to find it.
I'm probably going to run a 28, so you can use my 27. Swapping out a bike cassette is a rite of passage, you get to use a very cool looking tool called a chain whip. I'll have a portable stand and a bunch of tools up at the camp.
Joe - Did you find that you could have used and/or wanter more gears last year? I for one wished I had more gears....and I ran a 12/27 with a compact crank. Remember the climb on the way back on the 'out-and-back'....
We always recommend the compact, especially if you already have one (have spent the money). If it were me, I'd probably ride a 25-12 or 26-12. You won't need the 11t for anything on the course.
I am doing IMFL in Nov, and was wondering if I should stay with a 54-42 Chairnring and 12-27 cassette, or should I switch to a compact 50-34?
You're fine for Florida but long term you may want to look at a compact crank and 25-12 gearing. That would be a better set up for a variety of terrain.
I did IMC last year with a 12-27. However, for IMFL this year through the reading I've been doing, I understand that a 11-23 will be the ideal. I just picked one of these puppies up. IMFL is a fairly flat course so is my research correct to go with a 11-23?
I did IMC last year with a 12-27. However, for IMFL this year through the reading I've been doing, I understand that a 11-23 will be the ideal. I just picked one of these puppies up. IMFL is a fairly flat course so is my research correct to go with a 11-23?
As per the wiki, 11-23 is fine for IMFL, but you might want to get dual coach approval to avoid a possible kick to the nutz.
My "A" race in 2013 will be Hawaii 70.3, which bike wise I understand is 1/2 KONA and I was wondering: 1) which are the "ideal" wheels for that course? 404 - 808? 2) i have no clue what´s the practical difference between tubular and clinchers and which to choose? Kindly point me in the right direction. Tks Juan
Comments
I'm new to EN. Bike Gearing Question.
I have a Raleigh Revenio 2.0 (with Aerobars). http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/roa...nio-30-11/
This is my first year of serious riding and I sometimes feel that I need a lower gear on hills.
I'm training for a hilly (almost) 70.3 and Olympic.
Here are my specs. Any EN Recommendations for changing my cranks and/or gears? Or do I just need to do more work!?!
GEARS Shimano 105 10spd (11-28t)
CRANKS Shimano R600 Compact 34/50t
RIMS Weinmann TR18 Double Wall
TIRES Vittoria Rubino Pro 700x23c
Thanks!
Jerry
@Keith That's what I thought. I think it's just practice, doing the work on hills and time in the saddle. This is my first road bike, so power has to wait until next year when I can afford it. Thanks a lot for your thoughtful reply!
I was listening to an older podcast where it was recommended to run a compact crank up front. Is this still the recommendation? I have a 12-27 in the back and 53-39 up front. I am a "Clydesdale" (at least for a couple more months) and am racing Kansas and Augusta this year. In listening to last years podcasts it sounds like KS is hilly, although Augusta wasn't too bad when I raced it last year. Thanks.
Short answer -- Yes.
If you want to go against that guidance, it requires special dispensation from Coach Rich. Otherwise you risk a possible kick in the nutz.
I have a big goal for IM Wisc. So want to make the best choices for me. Hoping FTP to be 275 by then
Thanks guys! I def don't want a kick to the nutz! And good luck Carl. I think yours was one of the podcasts I listened to from KS. Not positive but I think it was.
Yes, in my strong opinion, everyone needs compact crank for IM. Unless you are faster than 4:50 on a flat course. I am close to 4 watts per kg. 185 lbs. Use compact and 11-28 on all but flat courses. If one wants to do lower candence, still plenty of gears to do this. I do like to keep a cadence >= 90. Full compact convert since joining EN. I can not think of any reasons to be using standard crank.
Another rookie question - do I have to replace the entire crank set including the arms? I have an FSA crank/arms that I really like and would like to keep the arms if that is possible and just replace the teeth. Is that recommened or even doable? Thanks again!!
In 2010 I did an on course race rehearsel with a 50/34 and an 11-26, I opted to get a 12-27 for the race. Your days at the LP rally will tell you a lot. I'll probably have an extra cassette (26 or 27) for race day if you want to borrow one for the rally on day 2 and race.
That's "easy" stuff. I'll help you out up at the rally.
THANK YOU!
I'm probably going to run a 28, so you can use my 27. Swapping out a bike cassette is a rite of passage, you get to use a very cool looking tool called a chain whip. I'll have a portable stand and a bunch of tools up at the camp.
IM Lou coming and have a choice between my stock Cannodale Slice cranks 52/38 with 12/25 cassette or a compact 50/34 with 12/25 cassette...
Any thoughts either way?
http://public.tableausoftware.com/views/bikegears/CompareBicycleGearing
at 90 rpm's in the 12, you're hitting 30.5 mph with the 52, vs. 29.4mph with the 50.
at 90 rpm's in the 25, you're hitting 10.7mph with the 38, vs. 9.5mph with the 34.
Up to you how fast you think you'll be going. I don't think of them as much of a difference, and I don't know the LOU course well enough.
We always recommend the compact, especially if you already have one (have spent the money). If it were me, I'd probably ride a 25-12 or 26-12. You won't need the 11t for anything on the course.
You're fine for Florida but long term you may want to look at a compact crank and 25-12 gearing. That would be a better set up for a variety of terrain.
I did IMC last year with a 12-27. However, for IMFL this year through the reading I've been doing, I understand that a 11-23 will be the ideal. I just picked one of these puppies up. IMFL is a fairly flat course so is my research correct to go with a 11-23?
As per the wiki, 11-23 is fine for IMFL, but you might want to get dual coach approval to avoid a possible kick to the nutz.
IMFL course profile looks like this:
________._________________________________
The little blip is the bridge.
1) which are the "ideal" wheels for that course? 404 - 808?
2) i have no clue what´s the practical difference between tubular and clinchers and which to choose?
Kindly point me in the right direction.
Tks
Juan