Juan, Don't know about "ideal", but a 404/808 combo seems to be a consensus in The Haus. As to tubulars vs clinchers, I have no direct experience with tubulars, but most people just stick with what they use day-to-day. For me, that means I train and race on clinchers. Joe
@Juan - an 404/808 will give you a mixed set. Which is OK, but many prefer to have a disk cover on a set of 404s or other deep wheel.. A disk cover will turn any wheel into a disk and can be had for under $100 from Wheelbuilder.com.
As far as tubulars versus clinchers, tubulars are almost a lifestyle choice. They are highly favored by the Pro peloton, but these guys don't change their own flats. They have a team just swap a wheel and get them back in the game. You see the tubular is GLUED to the wheel. It is constructed with an inner tube sewn in a tire. To change them can take a lot of time! You need to break the glue bond and then pull the tire off the wheel. Some people have spent over an hour doing this on the side of the road. Many just cut them off if a blade is handy. Also, a spare tubular tire is hard to pack and very bulky to ride with.
A clincher is two piece system. A tube and a separate tire. Tubes are cheap, pack well, are readily available and can be changed in under two minutes easier, every time with a little practice. MOST in the Haus use clinchers.
I have a set of tubulars and really like the way they ride, but I would not dare race with them. I save them for raodie rides where I can roll the dice on a can of "pit stop" and if need call my wife for pick-up. I race on carbon clincher 404's with a rear disk cover...
the big race on Hawaii in Oct does NOT allow disc wheels or covers; I suspect the same holds true for the 1/2, though you might check their web site to be sure. If you are a stronger, and/or heavier rider, the 808s will do just fine. @ 145 #/66 kilos, I use 404s on my 650c bike, which work well for me, and I add the disc cover when allowed. Most people I saw in Hawaii who were using Zipps had 808s. But of course, they were (almost) all very good riders.
If you have not used tubulars, don't start unless you are willing to commit to a big learning curve in their use. If they are second nature to you from years as a roadie, go for it. The supposed advantages - less weight, less rolling resistence - seem top be pretty much gone nowadays with high end clincher tires and rim/tire combos which have top end aero charactaristics.
@Rickie, I rode the Ville last year with a standard crank and a 12-28 cassette (at that time I was rolling a 274 FTP/3.3 watts/kg). There are a few climbs, the out and back and one particularly short steep climb on the loop (Acorn, I think), that convinced me to get a compact crank and keep the 12-28 on the back for this year (even thought I'm stronger on the bike this year). YMMV.
2nd point, please come join in our banter in the IMLouisville forum/threads.
As a big dood (~200lbs), I ride almost exclusively on a 50/34 compact with a 12-27, for all terrains. In an effort to have a better race (and esp a better run) at IMMT, I just picked up an 11-28 and have been riding with it. I think I'll keep it!
I am not all that big (150lb) and w/kg is around 3.6-3.7 last time I tested outside.
I rode 50/34 and 11-28 at the 70.3 in MT in June and was glad to have the granny gears especially for the short steep hills on chemin duplessis. I didn't have to stand and was able to keep cadence above 70. My top speed was on the back side of these hills at about 44mph and I was in no danger of spinning out. I am not an experienced cyclist by any stretch, but I would think for the IM distance there would be even more benefit to this type of gearing.
@Dave Tallo - I think it's coach Rich's preferred cassette these days. I love mine - it's pretty versital, you have speed when you need it and are able to spin up all but the steepest climbs.
I've got a SRAM, shimano may be making one at this point, it's worth a look.
OK, I am 200 lbs and have a standard crank and a 10 speed 11-26 on the back. I ride mostly on the flat and have A third chain ring on the front. My question is: with the third ring on the front, do I still need to go to a compact crank since I have plenty of gears?
I am 200 lbs and have a standard crank and a 10 speed 11-26 on the back. I ride mostly on the flat and have A third chain ring on the front. My question is: with the third ring on the front, do I still need to go to a compact crank since I have plenty of gears?
what say ye?
Several reasons to consider a double ring compact vs a triple chain ring set-up
With only two rings, less complications shifting around with the front derailleur: less chance to drop the chain, less need to shift amongst the rings, etc.
Snob value - other cyclists and triathletes won't look down their nose at you for having a "granny gear". You'll look more like a real racer.
Weighs less
For 15+ years, I had a triple chain ring on my road bike, which I used mainly for commuting to work and long bike tours - centuries and multi-day trips. 1.5 yrs ago, I put a compact on it, and it made my cycling life easier. Hills are just as easy to climb, and I no longer like to go balls to the wall downhill anymore anyway, so the slight reduction in top end speed (from 53/12 to 50/11) is not noticeable. Now people just stare at my combo of drop bars, SRAM Force components, and old style center pull mountain bike brakes.
I have everything working pretty well right now but the next time I need to change things or fix something, I will look into the possibility of changing. The other issue for me is how much to put into my 10 year old Trek "Granny" bike.
it is set up pretty well unless something breaks then I may use the excuse to upgrade the whole deal.
Has anyone run into cross-chaining issues when they moved to a compact crank? If the official EN policy is just "don't cross-chain", I can work with that - but I'm curious to know whether that's just what happens, or whether there's a tweak I could/should make to this isn't an issue.
I ride a compact 50/34 with a 26-11 cassette on everything from dead flat to 20+% grades. I've always been able to find a gear combination that didn't have me crossing the chain more than I would expect.
Haha - I was about 90% sure that was the answer, I just wanted to make sure the cross-chaining wasn't indicative of a different problem I was running into.
Hi all, I'm off to Challenge Roth shortly. Have a compact up front (50/34) and probably going to run my 12-25 cassette. Any feedback from anyone who has done the race before? I have an 11-27 but not sure I need the 27 and would prefer the closer range the rest of time I think (am bigger doode just under 200lbs with w/kg of 3.3).
I know a few people have already ridden part of the course. I've looked at the elevation profile and a few power files and it really doenst look like there are steep hills and only 2 longer hills (per lap). Thinking of gearing for this race -- I ride a 50-34 and 11-23 in the back most of the time (but I live in coastal MS). I rode the 11-23 in Augusta (rolling course) and it was fine.
Im thinking of picking up an 11-25 or 11-26 to try out during the camp but may also try the 11-23 before making a final call for race day.
@Marc... I ride a 50-34 / 11-28 for everything and plan to do so at CHOO... Every once in a while on a flat with a tail wind I wish I had more top-end gears but that is rare... The beauty of an 11-28 IMO is that on some courses (maybe CHOO) you can ride the entire course on the big ring in the front..... CHOO looks like it has 2 short hills that are steep enough to require the small ring....
11-26 + compact is an excellent all-rounder setup. I've been using it for years, on everything. I can't imagine a 23-11 being useful for much terrain, other than deadflat. I think you'd be fine with an 11-23 or 11-25 and don't sweat going to the small ring. Bolt on a K-Edge chain catcher if you're worried about dropping your chain.
Comments
Don't know about "ideal", but a 404/808 combo seems to be a consensus in The Haus. As to tubulars vs clinchers, I have no direct experience with tubulars, but most people just stick with what they use day-to-day. For me, that means I train and race on clinchers.
Joe
As far as tubulars versus clinchers, tubulars are almost a lifestyle choice. They are highly favored by the Pro peloton, but these guys don't change their own flats. They have a team just swap a wheel and get them back in the game. You see the tubular is GLUED to the wheel. It is constructed with an inner tube sewn in a tire. To change them can take a lot of time! You need to break the glue bond and then pull the tire off the wheel. Some people have spent over an hour doing this on the side of the road. Many just cut them off if a blade is handy. Also, a spare tubular tire is hard to pack and very bulky to ride with.
A clincher is two piece system. A tube and a separate tire. Tubes are cheap, pack well, are readily available and can be changed in under two minutes easier, every time with a little practice. MOST in the Haus use clinchers.
I have a set of tubulars and really like the way they ride, but I would not dare race with them. I save them for raodie rides where I can roll the dice on a can of "pit stop" and if need call my wife for pick-up. I race on carbon clincher 404's with a rear disk cover...
Juan, my 2¢
High potential for strong crosswinds. Same deal for Kona, no disks allowed.
Here's a great calculator to get a more objective understanding of gear selection.
http://public.tableausoftware.com/v...cleGearing
2nd point, please come join in our banter in the IMLouisville forum/threads.
War Eagle!
Thanks for the info. That is about where I was thinking I would need to be.
I will look for you on the IML blog
Thanks Rich!
I am not all that big (150lb) and w/kg is around 3.6-3.7 last time I tested outside.
I rode 50/34 and 11-28 at the 70.3 in MT in June and was glad to have the granny gears especially for the short steep hills on chemin duplessis. I didn't have to stand and was able to keep cadence above 70. My top speed was on the back side of these hills at about 44mph and I was in no danger of spinning out. I am not an experienced cyclist by any stretch, but I would think for the IM distance there would be even more benefit to this type of gearing.
I've got a SRAM, shimano may be making one at this point, it's worth a look.
I am 200 lbs and have a standard crank and a 10 speed 11-26 on the back. I ride mostly on the flat and have A third chain ring on the front. My question is: with the third ring on the front, do I still need to go to a compact crank since I have plenty of gears?
what say ye?
For 15+ years, I had a triple chain ring on my road bike, which I used mainly for commuting to work and long bike tours - centuries and multi-day trips. 1.5 yrs ago, I put a compact on it, and it made my cycling life easier. Hills are just as easy to climb, and I no longer like to go balls to the wall downhill anymore anyway, so the slight reduction in top end speed (from 53/12 to 50/11) is not noticeable. Now people just stare at my combo of drop bars, SRAM Force components, and old style center pull mountain bike brakes.
I have everything working pretty well right now but the next time I need to change things or fix something, I will look into the possibility of changing.
The other issue for me is how much to put into my 10 year old Trek "Granny" bike.
it is set up pretty well unless something breaks then I may use the excuse to upgrade the whole deal.
Just don't cross chain?
I ride a compact 50/34 with a 26-11 cassette on everything from dead flat to 20+% grades. I've always been able to find a gear combination that didn't have me crossing the chain more than I would expect.
Haha - I was about 90% sure that was the answer, I just wanted to make sure the cross-chaining wasn't indicative of a different problem I was running into.
Works for me!
I know a few people have already ridden part of the course. I've looked at the elevation profile and a few power files and it really doenst look like there are steep hills and only 2 longer hills (per lap). Thinking of gearing for this race -- I ride a 50-34 and 11-23 in the back most of the time (but I live in coastal MS). I rode the 11-23 in Augusta (rolling course) and it was fine.
Im thinking of picking up an 11-25 or 11-26 to try out during the camp but may also try the 11-23 before making a final call for race day.
Whats everyone else thinking?