Ok, I need a fit critique. I've had two professional fits, and feel pretty good about it. That being said, I do feel like I'm stressing my upper quads into my hip flexors a bit too much to be able to have an ideal run. This seemed to be further reinforced by IM France, in which I was only in aero position about 30% of the race, and ran my best marathon by far. Obviously, there are many factors, but just a thought.
And here's a few pics: /Users/beuerc/Pictures/iPhoto Library/iPhoto Library/Masters/2013/10/28/20131028-204224/IMG_0633.JPG /Users/beuerc/Pictures/iPhoto Library/iPhoto Library/Masters/2013/10/28/20131028-204224/IMG_0630.JPG
If these pictures don't show-up, please let me know how to post them, thx!
Saddle height seems okay. Cockpit seems low enough. You're a little stretched out from a shoulders and elbows standpoint. I'd like to see you more forward on the saddle. Accomplished by sitting more forward on the saddle an/or sliding the saddle more forward on the rails.
And the pics don't show up. You need to use the "Attachments" function. While posting/replying: look for the Attachments widget that's below the Submit, Cancel and Preview buttons.
Thanks Bob, I'll move the seat forward a bit. Do you think this will help alleviate some of the upper quad/hip issues? I know these will obviously get sore, but they continue to be the limiting factor on the run, when I feel like I have plenty of cardiovascular fitness left as well as hamstring/glute strength.
Chris, from the clip, what appeared to me what the tendency to sit on the saddle like sitting on a chair; I might propose rotating your hips / pelvis back a bit might address the tightness, as well as let you activate the hamstrings and glutes.
This is the first decent pic I have of me on my new bike. I fit myself. There isn't a pic of the bottom of my pedal stroke for saddle height commentary. The first pic is from IMAZ 2012 on my "old" Trek SC and the second pic is IMFL 2013 on my new Trek SC. The frame geometry is identical but the new SC has a completely different aerobar/stem system (it's a mono extension with forked tongued aerobars) so that was the challenge with fitting myself. I'm a bit lower on the new bike. I also went with 170mm cranks on the new bike compared with 172.5mm on the old bike but without a pic of bottom of the pedal stroke we can't really analyze that. I'm too lazy to take a trainer vid/pic but you all know I'm anal about bike fit stuff so I used a mirror when setting up my fit and the saddle height seemed fine to me. There's also the obvious switch from the Rudy Wingspan to the Kask Bambino and the skin tight Pearl Izumi Octane trisuit.
I am (or was) a wheel whore. I sold three wheel sets when I got the new bike because I didn't want to pay a bazillion dollars to upgrade all the rear wheels to 11-speed hubs. All I have now are the Bonty Aeolus 9, Bonty Aura 5 and a cheaper Bonty wheel set that came with another bike. Yes, I had six wheel sets if you're keeping score. My man cave looked like a bike shop. :-)
It feels about the same Bob, which I guess is a good thing. The only thing is I feel like I may need to inch my saddle up just a bit, as I believe moving the seat forward slightly decreased my leg extension, what do you think?
I'd like to hear EN thoughts on this question: "Having used this fit to satisfaction since it was done 6 years ago, but also experiencing annual "is my bike fit optimal" uncertainty, should I think about jumping on a plane and visiting ttbike fit?|
Anyhow, this is a comfortable position that I can hold at a .74IF plus for about 5h, and then run 26.2 suitably. Should there be further fit or position stones I try to turn over to find improvements?
Real-life action shots gleefully stolen from Finisherpics follow.
I'd like to hear EN thoughts on this question: "Having used this fit to satisfaction since it was done 6 years ago, but also experiencing annual "is my bike fit optimal" uncertainty, should I think about jumping on a plane and visiting ttbikefit?"
This is a comfortable position that I can hold at a .74IF + for about 5h, and then run 26.2. Should there be further fit or position stones that I try to overturn to find further improvements?
Real-life action shots from various points in 3 different races (gleefully stolen from Finisherpics) follow:
As you know, comfort and ideal aero position are not the same thing. I assume you are looking for the fastest possible position. That's a complex equation involving not only how small a profile you present to the wind, but also what happens to your power when you make changes.
Your set-up looks a lot like mine in terms of bike (double-diamond metal), aero cockpit (?profile design with curved bullhorns), helmet, wheels, shifters (specifically, NOT Di2). In 2014, we are now "Old School". While I wonder about fit checking my fit again, I also wonder if I should first make other changes that might help me go faster
You, like me, are still on a "classic" double diamond frame, with a little bit of aero-ness built into it. You are wearing a first generation aero helmet, which 7-8 years ago, was the best (I still have one of those, but never use it any more). But now especially in a hot environment, and when moving your head around, there may be better options from Kask, Giro, and Specialized.
Getting any lower would entail getting your seat further forward. You already seem very far forward on the seat - can the saddle go any further forward?
Do you have spacers below the stem which can be removed to help get you down further?
What about crank length; getting lower may require shorter cranks if you haven't already gone there.
I'm on the road to making more incremental changes. Already I switched to an Adamo Attack saddle. I ditched my Spiuk for a Giro Air Attack. I went to 167.5 cranks. I am about to get Ultegra Di2, with 11-32 cassette and 165 mm cranks. None of those things make me want to get another professional fit. But if I got a new aero cockpit, like a Zipp Vulka, then I would have to re-fit.
My off-the-cuff conclusion, if I were you, depends on how much $$$ you've got to invest in getting faster. A new fit might just be the tip of the iceberg; you may have already maximized the position/power ratio for the components you are working with. I won't tell what to spend your $$ on, but I would start with a budget, and the answer to this question: can my frame accomodate me getting my upper body lower, specifically, how much room is there to drop the stem, and how far forward can I get the saddle. If your cranks are 17X, getting lower might require shorter ones. And getting lower might also require a new basebar/stem/aerobars complex, or at least part thereof. New helmet and Di2 should also be on your mind.
You and I might well be better off with new bikes. But I seem to prefer endless tweaking to wholesale changes; I'm afraid any dramatic moves in my ride would set me back, as well as cost me $1000 a year in baggage charges
Thanks, Al. The choice of a new bike – at least as a new frame – is made for me: I cracked the seattube of the bike in the pictures at my last race, so it’s now the dedicated trainer. I’m in the process of transposing the fit coordinates that you see in the pictures to its replacement(s), however, so the question of position is still material.
-Incremental, it shall be. Going forward, the rigs that I’ll be using for racing offer considerable room for adjustment beyond the existing position: Replacement bike #1, a QR CD.01, gives easily another 40mm drop to the aerobar pads, and probably 3cm more fore saddle adjustability. Replacement bike #2, a softride rocket (which will probably emerge as the preferred race bike), gives near-infinite saddle adjustability, as well a further 30mm aerobar drop from the current position, plus a further 2cm if I wanted to go with lowest-stack aerobars like Reynolds or Tri Rig. (except I don’t: the bars pictured are Blackwell Concords, which are a very very fast design, despite being of a 2008(?) vintage. Their designer, Cobb, still chooses to run them, despite the company being long defunct … I’m trusting this as as good a testimonial as they get!). So, ya, I’ll start to play around with small increments once the weather turns.
-Curious – what was your starting crank length before going to the 167.5?
-Implicit in this – and it comes to the question of “how much $$ do you want to invest in going faster” - is I’m happy to spend a good deal on bike gear, but not up to the cost of a superbike. While I recognize that this is what many of the big boys are riding, the price point between a modern frame and a superbike (say, the difference between a p3 v a p5) carries the opportunity cost of, say, two weeks training and AZ plus a further week in BC for a few years. Yep, it’s leaving time on the table, but I see the frame as far along the curve of diminishing value of my tri dollar as they come. Different strokes for different folks, though.
-re: ‘new helmet and Di2 should also be on your mind.’ I agonize over helmet choice every year, but the numbers still show the Spiuk as faster than snub-tails (the specialized Maclaren being the exception). Provided I’m keeping the tail down, that is. I can’t see Di2 having an effect on race time unless I’m doing an insane amount of shifting?
from pure aero perspective, consider rotating forward ( seat forward, elbow pads down).
can be even more aggresive with the shorter crank (seat up to contribute to greater drop). so you know me (6-6). i have been running 170 mm for a couple years. i am a like to spin fast kind of guy. a fitter before Todd Kenyon suggested I might even try shorter cranks. which would be really short for a tall guy. so for you mini folks ( ), might want to experiment with shorter cranks.
@Dave, so glad to hear about another Spiuk user out there. I hear all the hype about the new fashionable hats, but I just love my Spiuk. It's light, reasonably ventilated and aero. Isn't that what a helmet should be? Also, I'm planning or riding my CD0.1 until it's the only thing holding me back from the podium. The new superbikes are amazing, and I love to look at them, but I keep riding the CD0.1. It's still a serious mile eater and a contender in any race.
Conversationally, answering Dave...Nice try on the cracked seat tube. I had the entire front triangle replaced on my QR Aerial (?predecessor to yours - same geometry it looks like) after I ran it into a truck. New top, down, and head tubes, or at least up to the S&S couplers. but it's a good excuse to get whatever strikes your fancy, you deserve it.
I was on 172.5 cranks, dropped to 167.5 and will go to 165 with my new Di2 build, which is being ordered as I write. Even 5 mm, 10 actually with the raised saddle, makes a big difference in being able to get lower. After I get the new set-up, I,ll re-fit.
My decision to go to Di2 was a little bit speed based, given my loss of forearm and hand/finger strength, which may be a combo of age related arthritis and the spinal cord injury from that truck collision. I find myself having to sit up to shift at times to get proper leverage, especially on the front derailleur. And considering that many courses I ride, both locally, in CO, and CDA, Tahoe, Canada, HI all involved a fair amount of up and down, and my concern about going down in the aerobars, I find the prospect of shifting from the brake "hoods" a benefit. Being able to get easily into a faster gear while going down hill has at times been a challenge.
Glad to see Softride is making a comeback. I remember it from the 90s as a road bike.
My *biggest* issue with the Spiuk is traveling. It's kind like ski boots - "Now where do I put *this*?" when packing. I fly to 4 or more races a year, and that's an issue. I still use it for local Olys.
As I prepare (worry) about my first full on May 17, I'm wondering how the heck you people can tolerate the neck strain such an "aggressive" position requires. I'm on a QR Lucero, purchased with a Retul fit. It's very comfy, and I know I can get more aggressive, but I've only been able to remove one spacer. Tried two, and the neck just didn't appreciate it....for 56mile rides. I don't know how you manage. Do you just suffer?....or does it REALLY get better with more time in position?
Posted By Jeff Leslie on 08 Jan 2014 11:22 PM <p>As I prepare (worry) about my first full on May 17, I'm wondering how the heck you people can tolerate the neck strain such an "aggressive" position requires. I'm on a QR Lucero, purchased with a Retul fit. It's very comfy, and I know I can get more aggressive, but I've only been able to remove one spacer. Tried two, and the neck just didn't appreciate it....for 56mile rides. I don't know how you manage. Do you just suffer?....or does it REALLY get better with more time in position?</p> <p> </p>
1. Sunglasses with no upper frame, or a shield/visor with no glasses, 2. A lot of head movement look up, look down, look up, look down, look up, hence the discussion of tail vs no tail in an aero helmet 3. A lotta ride over a lotta years on my TT bike - the only real road bike I have (not counting a tandem). 4. Fundamentally a desire for speed greater than a desire for comfort, and training towards that end.
@Jeff the number one thing is comfort. All the aero BS means nothing if you aren't comfortable in your bike setup. It will carry over to the run. I see people slam their bikes as low as possible and hey are scrunched up like a wad of paper. What for?
I visited my local bike shop over the lunch hour today to discuss power meters and bike fit. I have a Kestrel Talon SL, but was never really fitted for it. I am consider doing a "retro" bike fit. The bike shop has a Guru bike fitting system which looks very high tech and I would really like to know what my proper bike fit is. How important do you consider bike fit to be? Am I going overboard? Does this have a good ROI?
@ Charles, in my view, it is outstanding ROI. I paid $300 to get fitted to a tri-bike I bought off of Craigslist when I first started in the sport a few years ago and it was money incredibly well-spent. More recently I paid to get re-fitted (now on a different bike) in order to get a more aggressive aero position without sacrificing power.
@Charles I think a good fit is paramount. If just got a Guru fit yesterday. I like to get an annual check up just to make sure I can eke out the most power possible. Also you may find as you get fitter you may be able to take a more aggressive position which will assist inbeing more aero.
I thought it was awesome yet when I got home I darn near put everything back the way it was on all three bikes I had fitted.
On the Guru machine I was spinning @90 on the spin scan and darn near a perfect circle. When all that data was then put to the bikes NADA. It felt terrible. The person who fit me is one of the best here in Atlanta but was new to the Guru fit process.
All the whiz bang fitting systems out there don't me squat if the fitter is not qualified. Ask around where you live about who is the best fitter or ask on Slow Twitch and folks will tell you who they think is good. I think it is one of the most important things to have done all the way to the position of your cleats.
I found the bike fit very useful Also if you are training for an IM etc, on those long rides the fit being a tiny bit off will cause a lot of issues. Just be sure to find a good fitter, talk to a few people to get their opinion.
I'd like to underscore all of the above about bike fitting.
Ask around, be willing to travel. I drive 1 hour 20 minutes each way to go to my bike fitter, despite a machine 5 minutes away @ my LBS. He's also a physical therapist, so understands the fit from the inside out. Each session is at least one hour, and costs me $2-250, depending on if we use Retul or not.
ROI is very high - up there with a power meter and an aero helmet. It's probably MORE important to get a good fit, compared to spending, say, $6,000 on the wrong bike. Meaning, someone with a great fit on a $2000 machine may be better off than someone on a super bike which is not right for his body type or adjusted properly
+1 on Ray;s comment about cleats. Once my fitter grabbed my shoes and spent 5 minutes fiddling with those, I knew I had come to the right place. There are so many variables: aerobar angles, stem length, spacer height on head tube, saddle position fore/aft and angle, etc. And don't forget to wear the clothes you will race in. Thick padded bike shorts compared to thin fleec tri suit makes a big difference to the point where I need to raise or lower my saddle depending on the outfit I'm wearing.
When I decided to get a TT bike, I found one "in my size" on sale and told the LBS I wanted it. They offered/recommend a Retul fit from their bike guru....$100 with a bike purchase vs. $200 regularly. I agreed. I met with him a few days later and he put me on a PT table for 20 minutes and tested my flexibility and then looked at my shoes/cleats. He then put me on it and did the Retul thing. He made several adjustments and after about 1 1/2 hrs, told me that he could sell me that bike, but that he didn't want to, b/c it just barely fit....if I wanted any more adjustment (can't remember what the problem was....stack height something-or-other), he would not be able to do it without some ridiculous stem or something. So, he looked at all the brands they sell and compared to my ideal measurements and found what he'd recommend. It was of course a little more $, but he gave me $500 discount and basically sold it to me for just a little more than what I had picked out....with much better components though. When it came in, he put me back on it and did the Retul again and I was right in the middle without having to do much. He had set it up from my measurements, etc. If future adjustments are needed, I can make them. They also threw in a year of Retul re-assessments (which I did once more, just to recheck after a few months, and dropping my aerobars 1cm).
Not that I've bought a crapload of bikes (Dino(!) and others), but I think this is what you should look for, IMHO.
http://www.ttbikefit.com/ I can't say enough good things about Todd at TT Bikefit. Also, we get a discount. If I can get an awesome bike fit in Australia, you can too! Just sayin...
Comments
Here's a link to a short 10 second video.
And here's a few pics:
/Users/beuerc/Pictures/iPhoto Library/iPhoto Library/Masters/2013/10/28/20131028-204224/IMG_0633.JPG
/Users/beuerc/Pictures/iPhoto Library/iPhoto Library/Masters/2013/10/28/20131028-204224/IMG_0630.JPG
If these pictures don't show-up, please let me know how to post them, thx!
And the pics don't show up. You need to use the "Attachments" function. While posting/replying: look for the Attachments widget that's below the Submit, Cancel and Preview buttons.
Thanks Bob, I'll move the seat forward a bit. Do you think this will help alleviate some of the upper quad/hip issues? I know these will obviously get sore, but they continue to be the limiting factor on the run, when I feel like I have plenty of cardiovascular fitness left as well as hamstring/glute strength.
Here's the still pics.
Dave, I'm not sure exactly what you're suggesting, could you elaborate please?
I made some slo-mo videos of me on the bike and would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
David
This is the first decent pic I have of me on my new bike. I fit myself. There isn't a pic of the bottom of my pedal stroke for saddle height commentary. The first pic is from IMAZ 2012 on my "old" Trek SC and the second pic is IMFL 2013 on my new Trek SC. The frame geometry is identical but the new SC has a completely different aerobar/stem system (it's a mono extension with forked tongued aerobars) so that was the challenge with fitting myself. I'm a bit lower on the new bike. I also went with 170mm cranks on the new bike compared with 172.5mm on the old bike but without a pic of bottom of the pedal stroke we can't really analyze that. I'm too lazy to take a trainer vid/pic but you all know I'm anal about bike fit stuff so I used a mirror when setting up my fit and the saddle height seemed fine to me. There's also the obvious switch from the Rudy Wingspan to the Kask Bambino and the skin tight Pearl Izumi Octane trisuit.
Thoughts?
Bob....my only comment is that I have wheel envy.
Anyhow, this is a comfortable position that I can hold at a .74IF plus for about 5h, and then run 26.2 suitably. Should there be further fit or position stones I try to turn over to find improvements?
Real-life action shots gleefully stolen from Finisherpics follow.
I'd like to hear EN thoughts on this question: "Having used this fit to satisfaction since it was done 6 years ago, but also experiencing annual "is my bike fit optimal" uncertainty, should I think about jumping on a plane and visiting ttbikefit?"
This is a comfortable position that I can hold at a .74IF + for about 5h, and then run 26.2. Should there be further fit or position stones that I try to overturn to find further improvements?
Real-life action shots from various points in 3 different races (gleefully stolen from Finisherpics) follow:
Dave: My initial thoughts, in no order:
My off-the-cuff conclusion, if I were you, depends on how much $$$ you've got to invest in getting faster. A new fit might just be the tip of the iceberg; you may have already maximized the position/power ratio for the components you are working with. I won't tell what to spend your $$ on, but I would start with a budget, and the answer to this question: can my frame accomodate me getting my upper body lower, specifically, how much room is there to drop the stem, and how far forward can I get the saddle. If your cranks are 17X, getting lower might require shorter ones. And getting lower might also require a new basebar/stem/aerobars complex, or at least part thereof. New helmet and Di2 should also be on your mind.
You and I might well be better off with new bikes. But I seem to prefer endless tweaking to wholesale changes; I'm afraid any dramatic moves in my ride would set me back, as well as cost me $1000 a year in baggage charges
Thanks, Al. The choice of a new bike – at least as a new frame – is made for me: I cracked the seattube of the bike in the pictures at my last race, so it’s now the dedicated trainer. I’m in the process of transposing the fit coordinates that you see in the pictures to its replacement(s), however, so the question of position is still material.
-Incremental, it shall be. Going forward, the rigs that I’ll be using for racing offer considerable room for adjustment beyond the existing position: Replacement bike #1, a QR CD.01, gives easily another 40mm drop to the aerobar pads, and probably 3cm more fore saddle adjustability. Replacement bike #2, a softride rocket (which will probably emerge as the preferred race bike), gives near-infinite saddle adjustability, as well a further 30mm aerobar drop from the current position, plus a further 2cm if I wanted to go with lowest-stack aerobars like Reynolds or Tri Rig. (except I don’t: the bars pictured are Blackwell Concords, which are a very very fast design, despite being of a 2008(?) vintage. Their designer, Cobb, still chooses to run them, despite the company being long defunct … I’m trusting this as as good a testimonial as they get!). So, ya, I’ll start to play around with small increments once the weather turns.
-Curious – what was your starting crank length before going to the 167.5?
-Implicit in this – and it comes to the question of “how much $$ do you want to invest in going faster” - is I’m happy to spend a good deal on bike gear, but not up to the cost of a superbike. While I recognize that this is what many of the big boys are riding, the price point between a modern frame and a superbike (say, the difference between a p3 v a p5) carries the opportunity cost of, say, two weeks training and AZ plus a further week in BC for a few years. Yep, it’s leaving time on the table, but I see the frame as far along the curve of diminishing value of my tri dollar as they come. Different strokes for different folks, though.
-re: ‘new helmet and Di2 should also be on your mind.’ I agonize over helmet choice every year, but the numbers still show the Spiuk as faster than snub-tails (the specialized Maclaren being the exception). Provided I’m keeping the tail down, that is. I can’t see Di2 having an effect on race time unless I’m doing an insane amount of shifting?
Again, thanks for the input.
similar thoughts from me as per Al.
from pure aero perspective, consider rotating forward ( seat forward, elbow pads down).
can be even more aggresive with the shorter crank (seat up to contribute to greater drop). so you know me (6-6). i have been running 170 mm for a couple years. i am a like to spin fast kind of guy. a fitter before Todd Kenyon suggested I might even try shorter cranks. which would be really short for a tall guy. so for you mini folks (
), might want to experiment with shorter cranks.
I was on 172.5 cranks, dropped to 167.5 and will go to 165 with my new Di2 build, which is being ordered as I write. Even 5 mm, 10 actually with the raised saddle, makes a big difference in being able to get lower. After I get the new set-up, I,ll re-fit.
My decision to go to Di2 was a little bit speed based, given my loss of forearm and hand/finger strength, which may be a combo of age related arthritis and the spinal cord injury from that truck collision. I find myself having to sit up to shift at times to get proper leverage, especially on the front derailleur. And considering that many courses I ride, both locally, in CO, and CDA, Tahoe, Canada, HI all involved a fair amount of up and down, and my concern about going down in the aerobars, I find the prospect of shifting from the brake "hoods" a benefit. Being able to get easily into a faster gear while going down hill has at times been a challenge.
Glad to see Softride is making a comeback. I remember it from the 90s as a road bike.
My *biggest* issue with the Spiuk is traveling. It's kind like ski boots - "Now where do I put *this*?" when packing. I fly to 4 or more races a year, and that's an issue. I still use it for local Olys.
As I prepare (worry) about my first full on May 17, I'm wondering how the heck you people can tolerate the neck strain such an "aggressive" position requires. I'm on a QR Lucero, purchased with a Retul fit. It's very comfy, and I know I can get more aggressive, but I've only been able to remove one spacer. Tried two, and the neck just didn't appreciate it....for 56mile rides. I don't know how you manage. Do you just suffer?....or does it REALLY get better with more time in position?
2. A lot of head movement look up, look down, look up, look down, look up, hence the discussion of tail vs no tail in an aero helmet
3. A lotta ride over a lotta years on my TT bike - the only real road bike I have (not counting a tandem).
4. Fundamentally a desire for speed greater than a desire for comfort, and training towards that end.
@Jeff the number one thing is comfort. All the aero BS means nothing if you aren't comfortable in your bike setup. It will carry over to the run. I see people slam their bikes as low as possible and hey are scrunched up like a wad of paper. What for?
@Charles I think a good fit is paramount. If just got a Guru fit yesterday. I like to get an annual check up just to make sure I can eke out the most power possible. Also you may find as you get fitter you may be able to take a more aggressive position which will assist inbeing more aero.
I thought it was awesome yet when I got home I darn near put everything back the way it was on all three bikes I had fitted.
On the Guru machine I was spinning @90 on the spin scan and darn near a perfect circle. When all that data was then put to the bikes NADA. It felt terrible. The person who fit me is one of the best here in Atlanta but was new to the Guru fit process.
All the whiz bang fitting systems out there don't me squat if the fitter is not qualified. Ask around where you live about who is the best fitter or ask on Slow Twitch and folks will tell you who they think is good. I think it is one of the most important things to have done all the way to the position of your cleats.
I'd like to underscore all of the above about bike fitting.
When I decided to get a TT bike, I found one "in my size" on sale and told the LBS I wanted it. They offered/recommend a Retul fit from their bike guru....$100 with a bike purchase vs. $200 regularly. I agreed. I met with him a few days later and he put me on a PT table for 20 minutes and tested my flexibility and then looked at my shoes/cleats. He then put me on it and did the Retul thing. He made several adjustments and after about 1 1/2 hrs, told me that he could sell me that bike, but that he didn't want to, b/c it just barely fit....if I wanted any more adjustment (can't remember what the problem was....stack height something-or-other), he would not be able to do it without some ridiculous stem or something. So, he looked at all the brands they sell and compared to my ideal measurements and found what he'd recommend. It was of course a little more $, but he gave me $500 discount and basically sold it to me for just a little more than what I had picked out....with much better components though. When it came in, he put me back on it and did the Retul again and I was right in the middle without having to do much. He had set it up from my measurements, etc. If future adjustments are needed, I can make them. They also threw in a year of Retul re-assessments (which I did once more, just to recheck after a few months, and dropping my aerobars 1cm).
Not that I've bought a crapload of bikes (Dino(!) and others), but I think this is what you should look for, IMHO.
I can't say enough good things about Todd at TT Bikefit. Also, we get a discount.
If I can get an awesome bike fit in Australia, you can too!
Just sayin...